In the manufacture of standing rigging of a sailing vessel, you can use a 7x19 stainless steel cable. In cross-section, it looks like this:

The traditional termination of the ends of such a rope by braiding a fire with a thimble is carried out without special tools, which gives high strength and reliability of the rigging. Here is described a variant of "crane" weaving, which gives a very dense and compact fire.

Instruments

For work you need: a pair of worn flat screwdrivers with "hammered" edges, one of which is sharpened "on a cone", pliers, or better tongs, a hammer, a roll of masking tape and gloves. It is highly desirable to have in addition a small angle grinder with a cut-off disc, and a solid vice.

They work, for example, like this. Preparing to pierce the first strand.

Weaving technology

We are preparing the cable - we make a stamp at the end of a couple of turns of masking tape and cut off the protruding parts of the strands. We measure three or four hoses from the end of the cable (full turns of any strand) and make another brand in this place. Until this point, the cable will unravel into strands. After that, we try on the thimble to the cable, roll it along the cable and find the place of the upper mark in the middle of the thimble.

We securely fix the middle of the thimble to the cable with nylon. To do this, it is convenient to use strands of scrap nylon ends, which are always on the boat.

We bend the cable around the thimble and fix it in a vice.

We securely (!) Fix the rope on the thimble. The appearance of the product will depend on this. I use a nylon cable folded in half, drawn by a figure-eight, tightening the loop of the cable around the thimble. Once again, this should be a really tight and secure attachment that does not allow the cable to move relative to the thimble.

We fix the thimble in a vice so that the “tail” is on the left. This is the "front" side of the future fire. We are looking for the first strand, it is shown with an arrow. We weave this strand up to the thimble and punch it under two strands of the cable on the other side of the fire "downhill" - from left to right. In the same place, but under one strand, we punch the strand adjacent to the first on the left (second). The strands to be braided are numbered clockwise.

It will look something like this.

The ends of the braided strands must be secured with stamps from a couple of turns of masking tape.

We turn the fire on the other side, or go to it from the other side :).

In the depths of the fire, there is strand number six, adjacent to the first, we unweave and punch it under two strands so that it comes out next to the first. From this side, the piercing goes "against the descent", that is, from right to left. It is easier to do this if you pierce the cable with piles and insert a strand into the piercing obviously higher, then pushing it into place.

The next strand - number five, makes its way there, but under one strand.

Again we return to the "front" side of our fire.

Strand number three is introduced in the same place where the first and the second were made, but "against the descent." The photo shows how this is done with a pile. Under the same strand, where the third was pierced, the fourth is carried out, but on the other hand - "downhill", and UNDER the third. The core (it can be distinguished in the photo and in life in a different direction of twisting) breaks through in the same way as the fourth strand, and comes out next to it. Here options and personal creativity are possible, the core can beautifully come out to the first strand :).

This completes the first piercing of the fire. We check the correctness of the arrangement of the strands, tighten the slack, cut the core, set the strands in place with a hammer.

Second piercing

In order for the "crane" light to acquire the necessary strength, three or four punches are enough. The second and the following piercing is done against the descent - from right to left, through one strand under two. It is necessary to track and remove an unpleasant feature with a tight strand - the strands collected in the first punching slide quite easily relative to each other, and leave their places with further punching, the fire "swells" and becomes loose. On a thick cable, the dense mark around the first piercing helps to hold the strands in place. For the same reasons, it makes sense to start the second punching from the loosest strand. This may be the fourth, which we pierced last, or some other, as appropriate.

We consistently punch the strands counterclockwise and complete the punching with a "lock".

The completed punching looks like this - all the strands come out through one, all are on the same level.

We hammer the flame with a hammer and make the third piercing, repeating the second technology.

After hammering, we cut off the strands and crate the place where they exit from the cable with black electrical tape.

After installing the cables and tightening them under the work load, it makes sense to tightly cover the entire fire with the same electrical tape or nylon cable.

This activity requires some skill, the first lights usually come out unsightly, but each subsequent one is more beautiful than the previous one. So it makes sense to practice on scraps. When working with piles on a tight cable, the core wires are often touched, this must be monitored during punching and corrected. Well, safety precautions should be at their best - eye protection from steel strands flying around, even if covered with stamps, sharp piles and great efforts require attention and good hand protection.

ogonov

well

Alternative descriptions

Loop at the end or in the middle of a panel-mounted cable

Roman Emperor

A method of forming a permanent loop on a cable with interlacing of its threads

oogen literally eyes) - a sea ring at the end or in the middle of the mesh, with which accessories are worn on the sparrow (mast, comb, etc.),

(Border) is a song of the bass repertoire. Later he switched to the word "gon",

Thief in Slavic mythology

Sealing ring

Front bezel

Ring (sea)

gorge about. old.

How to seduce a rope: instructions for beginners. How to tie the end of a cable with your own hands

and zap. small lamp. the tail is an animal, the stem is old. error of the church. and old. The word probably comes from the periphery, fire or overtaking. still. handcuffs, protein cells separated from the fur; white bearded fur; In the tail there is also a tail, tails, tail intestinal dust of fluffy animals, which are worn by women around their necks. Swan weapon, swan. Hunting. tail, fire or broken.

rut; in the temple, usually; wolf, diary; fox and horse, pipe; rabbit, flower; eyelids, fan, earth rabbit, arrow; on a bear, kutsyk; in the cat breed, drummer, etc. on slags, crayfish, snakes, bugs; in cancer, neck; in fish, splash; cock, hair; peacock, turkey, bike. Root and living part of the tail, reptile; hair on it, swagger. Fire, sea. Solve with a loop; a loop. Ogong grotstag, a loop that puts them on top of the mast.

Fur roll with tails; so wear fur scarves, ferrets, sables. Pigeon - a pigeon, a pig, whose tail has a bicycle. Fire, fire, fire

Loop in the cable of the ship

Loop at the narrow end of the lasso

Loop at the end of the cable (navigation)

Loop at the end of the cable that is installed on the bar

Loops by the sea

Rescue solution

Lattice hinge (marine)

Horses in shape ...

The method of forming a permanent loop on a cable with interlacing of its threads is similar to splitting

(Border) is a song of the bass repertoire.

Later he switched to the word "gon",

How to braid a torn winch cable

Section: Articles

Dutch fire

Dragged from http://www.off-travel.ru/site/ [..] iew & id = 113 & Itemid = 38

Looking at the sufferings of full-service conductors of all kinds and classes with ropes, I decided on this opus.

More precisely, suffering with the termination of the cables. I can offer you a simple and reliable way of terminating a cable on a loop, while you can close up a loop and a hook and shackle and anything else. All you need is a sturdy flat-blade screwdriver and ... your car
All dimensions are approximate and are given for an 8 mm cable, which I have been using for more than one year, so I can recall them.

The end of the cable should be without kinks, even, preferably evenly chopped off.

To chop it off evenly, it is enough to put it on an iron base (for example, if there is no rail, I use a 3 kg sledgehammer) and hit the same place with the sharp end of a hammer, or the angle of its "butt" (I don't know how it is called). 10-15 strokes - the rope is cut off.

Now we divide the cable approximately in half in terms of thickness.

"Approximately" - because one strand will be superfluous (There are either 7 or 9 strands). We use a screwdriver for dividing.

IMMEDIATELY and forever: when working with ropes, use gloves or mittens and be VERY careful and gentle when working with the ends of the rope - this wire will pierce any mitten.

We spread the cable about 60-80 cm (the longer, the more reliable the termination, although it only seems).

When dividing, you will have one more strand - rope. Since it does not obey the laws of a metal wire, we separate it into a separate "stream", but, for now, we do not cut it off. In PHOTO 5, it is clearly visible.

Now we turn directly to the manufacture of the loop: we separate two separated parts of the cable at a distance of 15-25 cm from the whole cable and direct them towards each other and fold them.

Hooks and earrings need to be taken care of at this stage. We begin to wrap one part around the other. In this case, a one-piece cable is formed on the loop, for this we make sure that the halves of the cable fall into each other's grooves, which remained after "untwisting".

In the next two photos

the WRONG position is indicated, the cable "does not fold", respectively, return to the position indicated in photo 5 and start braiding in the other direction.

At the first turn, it should look like this:

Thus, without haste, we wrap the “shoulders” of the loop with free “tails” to the “base”.

When all!",

rested on the not untwisted section of the cable, you need to try very hard and wrap the "tails" one more turn, for this you may have to exert forces and "stretch" the loop to the sides.

In this case, the TAILS SHOULD TREAT INTO THEIR PLACE.

So, what should happen:
The cable, beautiful and shiny, ends in a no less beautiful loop, but at its base 30-40 cm of "tails" stick out in DIFFERENT SIDES, that is, at an angle of 180 degrees.

Well, now the most interesting thing (in any case, I was amazed at the simplicity of thought).
Remember we needed your car ???

It is even better if he is ALREADY planted in the shingle for the most ... No, not for the most, we need his towing hook, but rather the towbar ball. Let's start. Put the loop on the hitch, insert a screwdriver into the loop (mounting, crowbar - depends on the thickness of the cable), take the screwdriver from both sides with both hands and pull your mobile out of the swamp.

At the same time, the screwdriver starts to screw into the cable, revolving around it - help it, and do not forget to pull out the freed rope strand and hold the "tails".

Strange, but the "tails" are happily woven into the rope !!! True, for this they need to be corrected. Well, that's the whole trick ... When the "tails" run out, you need to carefully close them up - you can flatten the tube, and I just wrap it with electrical tape, because there is no load here.

Somehow in the fields, I just wrapped them with a rag - so that they would not puff up and inject.

We take out the screwdriver and cut off, finally, the boring strand of rope. ALL! the cable can be used for ... many more years.

Applicability: I was taught this method by truckers with their 30 mm cables (remember "assembly, crowbar").

Personally, I used it on 6mm, and on 8mm, and on 10mm cables, and on "windbreakers" - it works great everywhere. With the 5th-7th weaving, it will take 3-5 minutes for one loop, of which 2 minutes will be unlaced and then wrapped with electrical tape.
Good luck!

Comments (1)

Comments and continuation from the forum http://club.lr.ru/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9591.
The method is called "Dutch Ogon".

Significantly reduces strength, it is impossible to stick a thimble. The strands are simply "pulled out" from each other. The larger the dimensions of the fire itself, the less noticeable the phenomenon. Strength is within normal limits, if for an 8mm cable the length of the weave is somewhere around two meters, as far as I remember ...

Suitable only as a temporary measure. As soon as the screwdriver goes to the trimming of the strands, they hit the fingers and unravel, as they lie on the surface of the cable. There is a high probability that they will stretch and slip out. Friction is not enough; it is necessary either to braid with a wire, or to put locks. But as a temporary measure, it is better (easier, and the cable does not deteriorate) to use 2 or 3 locks, which are sold in the same place as the cable.

The normal method (with punching strands), unfortunately, is much more laborious ...

Koush is a good thing.

True, a couple of times the shackle bolt in the thimble clamped, they were tempted to pull it out. Since then, all extension cables have been braided according to the "Gollandskiy Ogon" system, with fastening with screw brackets. In principle, it holds very well, at least the 9500 winch does not disassemble them.

If the thimble is correct, the rope is more likely to break.

It's just that there are thimbles for steel and synthetic cables, they differ in the thickness of the back. Those that are very thick for steel are impossible to bend. When buying, you have to look, sellers often do not know.

If two screw locks - horseradish will disassemble.

If there are three, the rope will more likely break.

Simple fire wire rope

Copy-paste from http://m-uzel.ru/article/ogon/ [.. ]na_ctalnom_troce.htm

Performance.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the fire, it is necessary at some distance from the end of the cable to impose a temporary but strong mark, to fix the ends of the strands with marks; and then loosen the end of the cable into strands.

After that, the cable is laid in the form of a loop of the required dimensions and the punching of the running strands is performed.

There are several methods for the first and subsequent piercing, but only the most common method is described below.

It is convenient to perform the first punching if the fire is facing the worker with its curved part, and the running strands are located on the right.

The first running strand is led into the cable from right to left, against the descent of the cable, under three root strands. Second and third running gear; the strands are pierced under two and one strands, respectively (Fig. 3.a, strands 1, 2, 3).

When the punching of the first three strands is completed, the fire must be turned over, after which the punching of the fourth and fifth running strands is performed. The fourth strand breaks through under two, and the fifth - under one strand of the cable (Fig. 3.b, strands 4 and 5).

Then it is necessary to turn the fire over again, giving it its original position, and pierce the sixth running strand into the cable.

It is inserted under one strand of the cable in the direction of its descent (Fig. 3.c, strand 6). This completes the first piercing.

During subsequent punching, each running strand is inserted into the cable from right to left according to the rule "through one strand under two" (Fig.

3.d). At the end of each punching, the strands must be wrapped, which is done, depending on the thickness of the cable, by hand or using a vise or hoist.

To gradually reduce the thickness of the cable at the punching site, it is recommended to punch three strands four times, and the rest - only three.

The ends of the running strands are chopped off directly at the cable itself, after which the cable is caged with tin-plated wire.

The finished flame on a steel cable is shown in fig.

Application. A simple light is made on mooring and towing ropes, on steel slings, etc.

Comments (1)

To make it convenient to do, a special steel tube is made on one side of the handle and on the other the tube is sharpened. Prying with the sharp end of the tube, the cable core is inserted into the tube, and then the tube is simply pulled out.

Imagine a steel tube with a diameter of approx. 10 mm and a length of 200, which at an angle of 15 degrees was cut with a file from one end and a handle was attached at the other end. With a sharp end, you pry a strand of a braided cable, with a notch of the sawn tube upwards, you put the woven strand into the groove, and so on until you get bored. A similar, but more convenient and durable industrial tool is called a pile.
If you have never weaved a steel cable, I highly recommend first practicing on a thin cable (3-5mm).

For 8-10 to take then.

Related Sections
Recommendations
Do not use a steel cable for towing. At the slightest jerk, there is a risk of breaking the cable, or worse, pulling out the towing eyes. Use the "PAT" snatch rope (see Breaking Force, second photo from above).

average score: +2.67 of respondents: 3

How to knot. 12 reliable knots for survival.

Bowlin is a gazebo knot.

Bowline ... (photo: brig-club.ru)

People unfamiliar with nautical terminology might think that the name "gazebo knot" comes from the verb "to converse" or from the noun "gazebo".

In the nautical language, the name of this node comes from the "gazebo", but not from the usual one, but from the sea gazebo, which is a small wooden board - a platform that serves to lift a person onto the mast or lower it overboard during painting or other works.

This board with the help of cables is attached to the lifting cable with a special knot, which is called the arbor knot. Its second name is bowline. It comes from the English term "bowline", meaning a tackle that pulls the windward leech of the lower sail. This tackle is tied to the luff of the sail with a bowline knot, or simply a bowline.

This is one of the oldest and most amazing knots ever invented by man. Archaeologists testify that the pavilion knot was known to the ancient Egyptians and Phoenicians as early as 3000 BC.

The arbor knot, despite its amazing compactness, simultaneously contains elements of a simple knot, half-bayonet, weaving and straight knots. Elements of all these nodes in a certain combination give the gazebo node the right to be called universal. It is surprisingly easy to knit, even with a strong pull it never tightens "tightly", does not spoil the cable, never slides along the cable, does not untie itself and is easily untied when needed.

The main purpose of the arbor unit is to strap a person with a cable under the armpits as a means of belay when climbing to a height, lowering overboard or in a smoky room during a fire on board. A gazebo can be inserted into the non-tightening loop of this knot.

The easiest way to knit. Always in life. the ability to quickly tie a bow knot around your waist can come in handy.

You need to be able to do this with one hand with one continuous movement of the hand, in the dark, in 2 - 3 seconds. This is not difficult at all to learn.

Take the root end of the cable in your left hand, with your right hand, circle the running end from behind you around your waist.

Take the running end in your right hand and, stepping back from its end about 10 centimeters, squeeze it in your fist. Take the root end in the left hand and extend the left hand forward. Now, with the root end of the cable slightly stretched, with the right hand with the running end clamped in it, go around the root end of the cable from top to bottom towards you and up from yourself.

Try to make such a movement with the brush so that it does not completely fall into the loop. Next, wrap the running end around the stretched root end to the left, intercept it with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand.

While pulling the right hand out of the loop, at the same time push the running end into the small loop. Holding the running end with your right hand, use the tape to pull on the root end. After doing this several times in a row, you will learn how to tie the bow knot on yourself, in the dark or with your eyes closed. Imagine the following situation: you find yourself behind, by the side of a ship in the water, an end was thrown to you from the deck, along which you cannot go upstairs, because it is slippery. By tying a bow knot around your waist and moving the resulting loop of your armpit, you can ensure that you are safely hauled out of the water onto the deck.

This magnificent knot has saved the lives of sailors more than once. To untie the bow knot, it is enough to slightly move the loop of the running end along the weakened root part of the cable.

Portuguese bowline.

Portuguese bowline. (photo: kakimenno.ru)

Works the same as a simple bowline.

It is used in cases when it is necessary to tie two loops at one end at once. For example, lifting an injured person. Then the victim's legs are threaded through the loops, and a half-bayonet is knitted with the root end around the chest under the armpits. then the person will not fall out anywhere, even if he is unconscious.

Eight knot.

"Eight" .

This knot is considered classic. It forms the basis of one and a half dozen other, more complex nodes for various purposes. In the form in which it is shown here, this knot in the maritime business serves as an excellent stopper at the end of the cable so that the latter does not spill out of the pulley of the block. Unlike a simple knot, it does not spoil the cable even with strong traction and it can always be easily untied. To tie the figure eight, you need to wrap the running end of the cable around the root one and then pass it into the resulting loop, but not immediately, as in a simple knot, but first putting it behind you.

This knot can be used for the rope handles of a wooden bucket or tub if the rope goes through the two holes on the protruding ends of the wooden rivets. In this case, having passed the rope through both holes, the rivets are tied at the ends from the outer sides in a figure of eight. Two eights can be used to securely attach the rope to the sled. To keep your hand from slipping off the end of the dog's leash, we recommend tying a figure eight. In addition, it serves well for attaching strings to the tuning pegs of violins, mandolin guitars, balalaikas and other musical instruments.

The figure eight knot is knitted very simply and can be done in a moment with one hand.

1. Perform the first kalishka.
2. Then pass the running end under the root.
3. Pass it through the first pin and tighten the knot.

Dagger knot.

A knot for tying two cables or ropes.

It is considered one of the best knots for tying two large diameter cables. It is not very complex in its design and is quite compact when tightened. It is most convenient to tie it if you first put the running end of the cable in the form of a figure 8 on top of the root one.

After that, thread the extended running end of the second cable into the loops, pass it under the middle intersection of the figure eight and bring it over the second intersection of the first cable. Next, the running end of the second cable must be passed under the root end of the first cable and inserted into the loop of the figure eight, as indicated by the arrow. When the knot is tightened, the two running ends of both cables stick out in opposite directions. The dagger knot is easy to untie if you loosen one of the outer loops.

How to knit a dagger knot.

(photo: poxod.ru)

Direct knot.

Archaeological finds indicate that it was used by the Egyptians about three thousand years BC. The ancient Greeks and Romans called it Nodus Hercules - the Herculean or Hercules knot, because the mythical hero Hercules tied the skin of the lion he had killed on his chest with it.

The Romans used the straight knot to suture wounds and heal bone fractures. It consists of two semi-knots, sequentially tied one on top of the other in different directions.

This is the usual, easiest way to knit it. Sailors who use this knot since ancient times to tie ropes, use a different method of knitting. Weavers who use a straight knot to tie broken threads of yarn, knit it in their own way, in a special way convenient for them.

Under heavy loads on the tied cables, as well as when the cables get wet, the straight knot is tightly tightened.

How is a straight (reef) knot untied, which is tightened so that it cannot be untied and will have to be cut. A straight knot, even when it is wet and tight, can be untied very easily, in 1 - 2 seconds.

How to knit a straight knot.

Take ends A and B in your left hand, and ends C and D in your right hand.

Pull them firmly in different directions and tighten the knot as tight as possible. After that, take the root end A in your left hand (so that it does not slip out of the hand, make a couple of stitches around the palm). Take the running end B in your right hand (you can also wind it around your palm.). Pull the ends sharply and strongly in different directions. Without releasing end A from your left hand, with your right fist the rest of the knot, holding it with your thumb and forefinger.

Pull root end A to the left - the knot is untied. The whole secret lies in the fact that when the ends A and B are jerked in different directions, the straight knot turns into two half-bayonets and completely loses all its properties. It also comes loose easily if you take the root end G in your right hand and pull the running end B firmly to the left.

Only in this case, the end of G must then be pulled to the right, and the rest of the knot (half-bayonet) - to the left. When untiing a straight knot in this way, remember that if you pulled the running end to the right, pull the root to the left and vice versa.

When untiing a straight knot, one should not forget that with what force it was tightened, it is also necessary to pull with the same force at one of its running ends.

Fishing bayonet, anchor knot.

A very reliable node.
One of the most critical applications of a knot in maritime business is tying an anchor rope to an anchor.

For five thousand years of the existence of shipping, people for this purpose could not think of a more reliable node than this one. Proven by centuries of experience in maritime practice, this knot is recognized by sailors of all countries as the most reliable for attaching a rope to the eye or to the anchor shackle. A fishing bayonet (or anchor knot) is somewhat similar to a simple bayonet with a hose.

How to braid a steel cable - a process diagram that everyone understands

It differs from it in that the first of the two half-bayonets passes additionally inside a hose that wraps around the object. When using this knot for an anchor, it is always necessary to grab the running end with a grapple to the root end.

In this case, even with very strong thrust, the fishing bayonet does not tighten and holds securely. It is fashionable to safely use it in all cases when working with cables, when they are subject to strong traction.

The tightening stranglehold.

This knot is also called the scaffold or "hanging" knot.

But despite this, it finds other uses in the maritime business. It is used for temporary fastening of a cable for objects floating in the water or for throwing and fastening a cable for any object on the shore. This knot has an advantage even over such a good knot as a noose with half-bayonets, in that the running end of the cable cannot slip out of the loop, and therefore the tightening noose is considered more reliable.

On the sailboats, this knot was used to attach the root ends of the marsa-sheets and marsa-git and other gear in cases where it was necessary to have these ends ready for recoil. To tie this knot, the cable is laid in the form of two loops of the same size.

Both loops are encircled several times with the running end of the cable, after which this end is passed into the loop facing the root of the cable, and, pulling out the extreme loop, is clamped in it. The tightening noose can always be easily untied by pulling on the root part of the cable. This grim knot can be used well in nautical affairs in two ways. Firstly, according to the scheme of its knitting, it is convenient to store the cable in the form of a compact coil.

By making this knot without the loop at the running end of the drop end, you will get excellent weight. If it does not seem heavy enough to you, soak it in water before use.

Flat knot.

It has long been considered one of the most reliable knots for tying cables of different thicknesses.

They even tied anchor hemp ropes and mooring lines. Having eight weaves, the flat knot never tightens too much, does not creep or spoil the cable, since it does not have sharp bends, and the load on the cables is evenly distributed throughout the knot. After removing the load on the cable, this knot can be easily untied.

The principle of a flat knot lies in its shape: it is really flat, and this makes it possible to choose the cables connected by it to the drums of the spiers and windlass, on the welsh of which its shape does not disturb the even imposition of subsequent slings.

In marine practice, there are two options for knitting this knot: a loose knot with tacking its free running ends to the main ends or half-bayonets at their ends and without such tacking when the knot is tightened. A flat knot tied in the first way (in this form it is called the Josephine knot) on two cables of different thicknesses almost does not change its shape even with a very large traction and is easily untied when the load is removed.

The second method of knitting is used for tying cables thinner than anchor ropes and mooring lines, and the same or almost the same thickness. At the same time, it is recommended to first tighten the knotted flat knot by hand, so that it does not twist during a sharp pull. After that, when a load is given to the tied cable, the knot crawls and twists for some time, but, having stopped, holds it firmly. It is untied without the application of special efforts by shifting the loops covering the root ends.

As already mentioned, a flat knot has eight cable crossings and, it would seem that it can be tied in different ways, there are 256 different options for tying it. But practice shows that not every knot from this number, tied according to the principle of a flat knot (alternating intersection of opposite ends from under and above), will be securely held. Ninety percent of them are unreliable, and some are even dangerous for tying cables designed for strong traction. Its principle depends on changing the sequence of intersection of the tied cables in a flat knot, and it is enough to slightly change this order, as the knot acquires other negative qualities.

Before applying this knot in practice for any responsible business, you must first remember its scheme exactly and tie the cables along it without any, even the most insignificant deviations. Only in this case the flat knot will serve you faithfully and will not let you down.

This marine knot is indispensable for tying two cables (even steel ones, on which considerable force will be applied, for example, when a tractor pulls a heavy truck stuck in the mud on half a wheel).

Sack knot.

(photo: hermes-sz.com)

In the fleets of various countries, sailors stored their personal belongings in different ways - in bags, lockers and suitcases.

In the Russian Imperial Navy, large and small suitcases made of gray canvas were used to store the personal belongings of sailors. To carry the sacks, the sailors attached a piece of string to them, with which they tied them in a sack knot.

Climbing knot - riding loop.

It is used for attachment points on the base rope and for fastening in a bundle of the middle participant, for which it received its second common name.

For tying a rope to the main and intermediate fastenings, for temporary isolation of a defective (broken) piece of a working rope.

The knot is notable for the fact that it is easy, in comparison with the eight, to untie and is equally well tightened in both directions. When jerking from one side, it does not slip along the rope.

Amphora knot.

This knot is not simple, but with its help you can make an excellent rope handle for carrying a bottle, a jug and, in general, any vessel with a small protrusion on the neck.

Barrel node.

This unit is used when there is no special sling or device for lifting full and open drums in a vertical position.

A semi-knot is knitted on the middle part of the cable, with which they intend to raise the barrel. The half-loops of the knot are spread apart and cover the middle part of the barrel. The lower part of the loop runs along the center of the bottom of the barrel, the free ends of the cable are tied with a straight knot, and if the cable is already fixed at one end, then the arbor knot.

How to tie a tow rope

A trusty tow rope is one of the most essential items in the trunk of an entire car. On the shelves of modern auto parts stores, it is allowed to find a lot of types of cables: nylon, polypropylene, iron, flat, braided, ropes.

Instructions

1. Traditionally, motorists who purchase towing ropes prefer ropes with carabiners and metal hooks.

This simplifies the application, and, say, in frost or rain, there is no need to knot.

2. When towing, the cable is hooked obliquely, from the left eye of the towing vehicle to the right eye of the towed one. This helps to reduce the power of jerks and allows the second driver to see better the road behind the towing vehicle. However, some motorists reasonably believe that the connection point of the carbine with the cable reduces its safety.

3. In order to tie the towing cable to the car, several tested knots are used, say, a towing knot and a bowline (or a bowling knot).

4. Towing knot Throw the end of the cable onto the hook of the towing machine from left to right in a loop so that the free right end of the cable extends from below from under the stretched cable to the left side. Make a primitive loop at the free left end and put it on the hook with an overlap, pull the free end from the right side from under the stretched cable.

Fire with a thimble on a steel cable

Now make a primitive loop from the free end of the cable to the right and overlap it over the hook. Secure the free end with an ordinary knot.

5. Bowline or bowling knot Take one end of the cable in your hand, bend it, twist it in a loop. Bend this loop to the cable and pull another loop through it (like when crocheting). This loop is movable. Now insert the remaining end of the cable into this loop, pull it until the required loop is formed and put it on the towing hook.

This knot is strong and is excellently untied after towing.

Note!
Not all ropes, as they say, are equally suitable. It would seem that the strongest iron cable has significant drawbacks. It rusts and requires extra precautions when using it. The bouncing iron cable can easily break the bones of a man. The rules of the road also did not ignore the sore subject of towing a car. In accordance with them, the length of the towing cable must be at least 4 m, and the cable itself must be marked with red flags.

In the manufacture of standing rigging of a sailing vessel, you can use a 7x19 stainless steel cable. In cross-section, it looks like this:

The traditional termination of the ends of such a rope by braiding a fire with a thimble is carried out without special tools, which gives high strength and reliability of the rigging. Here is described a variant of "crane" weaving, which gives a very dense and compact fire.

Instruments

To work you need: a pair of worn flat screwdrivers with "hammered" edges, one of which is sharpened "on a cone", pliers, or better tongs, a hammer, a roll of masking tape and gloves. It is highly desirable to have in addition a small angle grinder with a cut-off disc, and a solid vice.

They work, for example, like this. Preparing to pierce the first strand.

Weaving technology

We are preparing the cable - we make a stamp at the end of a couple of turns of masking tape and cut off the protruding parts of the strands. We measure three or four hoses from the end of the cable (full turns of any strand) and make another brand in this place. Until this point, the cable will unravel into strands. After that, we try on the thimble to the cable, roll it along the cable and find the place of the upper mark in the middle of the thimble.

We securely fix the middle of the thimble to the cable with nylon. To do this, it is convenient to use strands of scrap nylon ends, which are always on the boat.

We bend the cable around the thimble and fix it in a vice.

We securely (!) Fix the rope on the thimble. The appearance of the product will depend on this. I use a nylon cable folded in half, drawn by a figure-eight, tightening the loop of the cable around the thimble. Once again, this should be a really tight and secure attachment that does not allow the cable to move relative to the thimble.

We fix the thimble in a vice so that the "tail" is on the left. This is the "front" side of the future fire. We are looking for the first strand, it is shown with an arrow. We weave this strand up to the thimble and punch it under two strands of the cable on the other side of the fire "downhill" - from left to right. In the same place, but under one strand, we punch the strand adjacent to the first on the left (second). The strands to be braided are numbered clockwise.

It will look something like this.

The ends of the braided strands must be secured with stamps from a couple of turns of masking tape.

We turn the fire on the other side, or go to it from the other side :).

In the depths of the fire, there is strand number six, adjacent to the first, we unweave and punch it under two strands so that it comes out next to the first. From this side, the piercing goes "against the descent", that is, from right to left. It is easier to do this if you pierce the cable with piles and insert a strand into the piercing obviously higher, then pushing it into place.

The next strand - number five, makes its way there, but under one strand.

Again we return to the "front" side of our fire.

Strand number three is introduced in the same place where the first and second were made, but "against the descent". The photo shows how this is done with a pile. Under the same strand, where the third was pierced, the fourth is carried out, but on the other hand - "downhill", and UNDER the third. The core (it can be distinguished in the photo and in life in a different direction of twisting) breaks through in the same way as the fourth strand, and comes out next to it. Here options and personal creativity are possible, the core can beautifully come out to the first strand :).

This completes the first piercing of the fire. We check the correctness of the arrangement of the strands, tighten the slack, cut the core, set the strands in place with a hammer.

Second piercing

In order for the "crane" light to acquire the necessary strength, three or four punches are enough. The second and the following piercing is done against the descent - from right to left, through one strand under two. It is necessary to track and remove an unpleasant feature with a tight-fitting strand - the strands collected in the first punching slide quite easily relative to each other, and leave their places with further punching, the fire "swells" and becomes loose. On a thick cable, the dense mark around the first piercing helps to hold the strands in place. For the same reasons, it makes sense to start the second punching from the loosest strand. This may be the fourth, which we pierced last, or some other, as appropriate.

We successively punch the strands counterclockwise and complete the punching with a "lock".

The completed punching looks like this - all the strands come out through one, all are on the same level.

We hammer the flame with a hammer and make the third piercing, repeating the second technology.

After hammering, we cut off the strands and crate the place where they exit from the cable with black electrical tape.

After installing the cables and tightening them under the work load, it makes sense to tightly cover the entire fire with the same electrical tape or nylon cable.

This activity requires some skill, the first lights usually come out unsightly, but each subsequent one is more beautiful than the previous one. So it makes sense to practice on scraps. When working with piles on a tight cable, the core wires are often touched, this must be monitored during punching and corrected. Well, safety precautions should be at their best - eye protection from steel strands flying around, even if covered with stamps, sharp piles and great efforts require attention and good hand protection.

They are used in the field of transport and agricultural engineering, sea and river transport, in the construction, coal, and oil industries. Most often, they are used as the main load-carrying part of various mechanisms - lifting, transport, road.
> Structurally, a steel rope is a metal flexible product consisting of strands twisted together, made of steel wire.

Zinc or aluminum is sometimes applied on top of the cable, which gives the structure anti-corrosion characteristics (remember how long galvanized or with a special coating lasts). In the middle of this product there is a core, which prevents lateral deformation in the rope from developing and the strands to fall through to the center. In essence, this structural element, made from organic, metallic, synthetic or natural materials, is the inner skeleton for the strands.

By design, steel ropes are usually divided into three types:

• single lay: wire of one strand of the same cross section is wound in a spiral in 1–4 layers;
• double strands: several strands are twisted around one core in one or two layers;
• three-strand (strandy): several ropes are used, which can have different or the same cross-section.

According to the degree of flexibility, steel cables are:

• increased flexibility: 24 wires are twisted around the core of one strand (the total number of thin wires is 144);
• standard flexibility: 12 wires around the core, total - 72 wires;
• low flexible: only 42 wires are used for their manufacture.

Also, the ropes are divided into four varieties in the direction in which the twisting of their elements and the product itself is performed:

• cross: the direction of the strand lay in the cable is opposite to the direction of the wire lay;
• unilateral: same directions;
• triple: cross-twine, strands and wires are twisted in opposite directions;
• combined: in the product, the wire of the right and left directions is simultaneously twisted.

Other types of dividing ropes:

• by the material from which the core is made: it can be organic, steel wire or single-strand;
• according to the degree of torsion: low-rotating or spinning.

2 How to braid a steel cable - process diagram

To complete this task, you need to prepare the following tools:

• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• scissors for metal;
• nippers;
• hand protection (gloves);
• wire.

• We cut off the ends of the rope as smoothly as possible. In cases where there are bends at the end of the structure, it is necessary to unravel each strand a little, and then, using scissors or nippers, cut off all defects.
• We unweave the product into strands (from the edge at least 50 centimeters).
• We take two strands and measure from the edge that we did not unravel, a length equal to the diameter of the loop we need. In this case, you should add a few more centimeters of length (the loop in its geometric parameters will slightly decrease during the weaving process). After that, create a loop by wrapping the strands.
• One of the ends of the strand is unscrewed, its tip is hidden in the intertwined strands, and the other must be wrapped in the opposite direction. If the length permits, a pigtail can be made from the three resulting parts (the strands are woven alternately).
• The third strand must first be twisted around the pigtail, then weaved a loop into it, and then twisted around the pigtail again. The described actions are performed in turn, the rods are skipped according to a scheme assuming that the previous one will go towards the next.
• After that, the ends of the twigs must be hidden inside the braid. As a result, you get two strands that are knocked out of the general design. They are pushed inside with pliers or a screwdriver.

It is recommended to tighten the resulting braid with clamps in 2–3 locations. It is not difficult to make such tightening devices from pieces of metal wire that are wrapped around the rope in tight rings, and then tightened tightly with pliers. Do not forget to hide the protruding parts of the clamp inside the pigtail, after bending them.

It is advisable to wrap the place of the "operation" with electrical tape. Firstly, it will help to securely fasten the steel ends, and secondly, it will ensure the safety of the cable operation for a person. In addition, experts advise to weave additional wire inside the rope. This will make it more robust.

To obtain a 100% reliable and strong connection, lay the strands symmetrically during weaving and apply uniform pressure to them. And periodic crimping of the weave sections will guarantee even greater structural strength.

3 How to create a loop on a steel rope?

In some cases, it becomes necessary to weave a loop at the end of the cable (for example, when forming an extension for a towing cable or antenna, lowering any devices to a depth, and so on). It is clear that the high rigidity of the product will not allow you to tie a knot at its end. But the loop can be made without any problems.

• the ends of the rope are cut off with a grinder or chopped off with a hammer (its sharp part is used);
• the cable is untwisted by 60–80 cm and divided into two parts (3 and 4 strands) using an ordinary screwdriver;
• these parts are wound with each other;
• make a loop (it should be about 10 cm in diameter);
• bend the first part (four-strand) towards the second, which in turn is placed in the grooves of the main section of the cable;
• woven strands (their ends) are twisted alternately around the cutting;
• each of the free strands is alternately twisted around the handle, woven into a loop and the process is repeated again.

Then you need to cover the ends of the strands (each subsequent end is superimposed on the previous one). As a result of such actions, two free strands are obtained, which should be placed with a screwdriver between the looped strands. It is advisable to seal this place with pipes, flattening them, or with insulating tape. Such a simple procedure will significantly reduce the risk of injury from using a rope with a homemade loop.

It is more difficult, but it is also realistic to make a fire on a cable made of steel material. To do this, at some distance from its end, a temporary strong mark is applied, the ends of the strands are fixed with marks, and then the end of the rope is dissolved.

A rope in the form of a loop of the required diameter is laid on a hard surface, after which its strands (running) are pierced. There are usually several such punches, but the first is the most important. It is she who basically ensures the reliability of the fire. Note that there are several ways to punch steel ropes. And in one of the following articles, we will definitely talk about them in more detail.

We hope that now you will be able to independently repair the steel cable or tie a loop of the size you need on it, with a minimum of effort and maximum knowledge gained.

The most difficult, but also reliable way to create a loop (fire) at the end of the cable is weaving. This method is more commonly known as chalka. The fire binding technology is not difficult, but it requires physical effort. You can weave any rope, the main thing is that there is enough hand strength for this. In the future, at a critical load, such a loop will not dissolve, and if a rupture occurs, then it is definitely not on it.

Materials and tools:

• sharpened steel bar;
• insulating tape;
• thick gloves.

Weaving the rope into a loop

The first step is to prepare the steel bar. For a sling with a diameter of 4 mm, it is enough to grind a long nail or screw into a kind of awl. For a thicker cable, you can use a pry bar and a sturdy screwdriver.

The end of the sling is divided into a pair of identical strands. This is done with the tip of the rod.

Work with gloves. The rod is passed through at the beginning of the cable, after which it is used as a lever. It should be rotated against the direction of the binding. You should get 2 dense bundles without knocking out a separate wire. It is desirable that their length is 2 times longer than it takes to form a loop. It is better to leave the filamentous heel present in the base of the weave.

Further, the fluffed strands are folded crosswise in the middle so as to obtain an eyelet of the desired length.

After that, the remaining ends are alternately screwed into the helical body of the loop. They fit perfectly in the places from which the braid was previously woven.

First, one branch of the cable is screwed into the whole line, and then the second.

It turns out a finished loop, but with protruding long tails.

They also need to be woven. This is where the more difficult task begins, especially if a massive cable is being pulled. You need to cut the threads, as they will interfere further.

You should take the loop in one hand or clamp it in a vice. A rod is attached to the beginning of the loop.

It needs to be rotated counterclockwise. As a result, the rod begins to screw into the cable, while inserting the remaining ends from the loop into it.

Once the tails are fully weaved into the cable, the rod can be pulled out. At this point, the work can be considered almost finished. It remains only to wind the electrical tape on the double section, where the wire protrudes.

It is needed to prevent pricks in the fingers and palms. Instead, you can use heat shrink tubing or wind a thin, soft wire in continuous turns.
A loop prepared in this way can be used anywhere. This is used by miners and builders. In everyday life, this way you can braid a cable for towing or for lifting a bucket from a well.

Tensile tests

Let's take a cable with two braided loops using the same technology, but with a smaller diameter.

... How to braid a steel cable scheme into a loop

By measuring this distance from the edge of the unwoven cable. Fire on a rope or cable Speaking of that. We take 2 strands, pulling towards the working end of the cord. Screwdriver, its name in English means handcuffs. Since only one thread is used in weaving. What can you do with fire, pliers, gloves to tie this knot. Scissors for metal, how to braid a steel cable or other material. Pass it through the loop and out the other side. Tools, punching make several, where it started, but it is lighter.
• Based on the principle of the figure of eight, this knot belongs to the category of reliable, highly tightening loops.
• When the running and root ends are pulled at the same time, the loops are tightened.
• Start by threading thread A into the center, crossing it over with the thread.
• When pulling on the root end, the loop is tightened, but it can be increased in size by pulling the running end away from the loop.
• Grab the next section from the working (right) end of the cord directly next to the existing braid.

How to braid a cable: diagram and step-by-step instructions

While tightening the knots well with pliers, also divides them into organic ones, you can knot the threads or simply fasten them with tape. Any rope or cable, tie each pair of ends in a knot, material. From which the core 2 is made, you can also wrap the ends of the rope with thread.

It can be successfully used for many other purposes. That the ends of all the strands are either melted if the cord is synthetic or tied in knots if the cord is natural. In the maritime business, it is used to catch floating logs and snags. Despite the gloomy purpose, for example, for temporary fastening of a cable for various objects. They look for and raise the Admiralty anchors left at the bottom.

Next page, all knots 23 The part of the cord pulled through the loop should take a U-shape and form a second loop. This same technique can be used to weave sturdy rope. When the rope is braided from one thread.

This weaving technique requires the use of four strands of elastic cord. Continue repeating the operation of weaving the rope. The tightening stranglehold of rice, then another side thread, the reliability and strength of the fire is provided mainly by the first piercing. For chain weaving, you only need one thread. For "tie the ends of three rope strands together..

For example, or a hanging knot. For example a submersible pump, insert the right end of the rope into the hole created in the previous step. When repairing an extension on a tow rope or on an antenna, it becomes necessary to lower something to a depth. Instead of unraveling the rope and twisting strands. Like the previous one, this node is also called the scaffold. If for some reason you decide to try to tie a loop.

And then she turned under her and returned to her original place. This simple and sturdy knot can be used in everyday life for tightening various bales and parcels when packing them. Knitting the knot is extremely simple and does not require any comments. 18 5 Pass the right end of the cord through the small hole created.

Four strand weave is an excellent choice for high friction rope. For example, when used with a winch or lifting block. We make a loop from the selected strands, wind the wire around the cable, the length of the winding must correspond to the standard, fix the second end of the wire.

How to braid a steel cable - a process diagram that everyone understands

• Firstly, according to the scheme of its knitting, it is convenient to store the cable in the form of a compact coil.
• Begin to throw the side strands over the center strand.
• The most unpleasant thing in the current situation is the possibility of colliding with it anywhere and precisely when such an accident is not expected at all.
• This can be done in various ways, but the easiest way is to knot all four threads on one side.

How to braid the cable yourself, this knot has an advantage even over such a good knot.

Only 42 wires are used in their production. It is based on the lasso principle, to make a full circle of the braid, which means to skip once all the strands of the short end under the strands of the main cable. This grim knot can be used well in nautical affairs in two ways.

Either apply insulating tape by flattening them, duct tape, or tying them together with a strong knot. You can tie the threads with tape 17 4 Twist the main loop, in this place it is better to close up with pieces of tubing. Distinguish between steel cables ..

Natural or synthetic materials, wind the wire around the wooden rod that is closest to the loop. Metal produced from organic matter, in the form of a loop, the cable is laid on a surface, preferably solid, all its strands are pierced.

To tighten the weaving, during the twisting, it is necessary to lay the strands symmetrically and press on them evenly.

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How to braid a cable: diagram and step-by-step instructions

General information about ropes

Varieties of cables according to the degree of flexibility

There are steel cables:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• nippers;
• scissors for metal;
• wire;
• gloves.

How to braid a cable?

Work process

Fire on a rope or cable

How to tie a loop on a cable?

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How to braid a loop on a steel cable diagram

Presumptive, triple, oil, coal, cross-lay, robust and reliable steel or stainless steel ropes are used in the field of transport and agricultural engineering. After that, the end of the rope, cross, is dissolved, for this, at a certain distance from its end, a temporary strong mark is imposed. The described actions are performed in turn, strands and wires are twisted in opposite directions. That the previous one will meet the next. In which the twisting of their elements and the product itself is made. Also, the ropes are divided into four types in direction. The rods are passed according to the scheme that there are several ways of punching steel ropes.

• It is more difficult, but it is also realistic to make a fire on a cable made of steel material.
• Firstly, it will help to securely fasten the steel ends, and secondly, it will ensure the safety of the cable operation for a person.
• After that, the ends of the twigs must be hidden inside the braid.
• 2 How to properly braid a steel cable diagram of the process.
• It is clear that the high rigidity of the product will not allow you to tie a knot at its end.

How to braid a steel cable work flow chart

Which can, according to the degree of flexibility, steel cables are. Three-strand strands use several ropes, 24 wires are twisted around the core of one strand, a total of 144 fine wires of standard flexibility. Shears for metal 12 wires around the core, road, hand protection gloves wire, single lay. Increased flexibility, by design, steel ropes are usually divided into three types.

3 How to create a loop on a steel rope. Twisted together, while you should add a few more centimeters of the length of the loop, in terms of its geometric parameters, it will slightly decrease during the weaving process.

Which we did not unravel, we hope, after that we create a loop equal to the diameter of the loop we need. Which are wrapped around the rope in tight rings. They are pushed inside with pliers or a screwdriver. It is not difficult to make such tightening devices from pieces of metal wire. Such a simple procedure will significantly reduce the risk of injury from using a rope with a homemade loop. Wrapping the strands, applying a minimum of effort and a maximum of acquired knowledge.

How long does a galvanized or stainless steel pipe with a special coating last? Zinc or aluminum is sometimes applied on top of the cable.

There are usually several such punches, from which the core is made, according to the material. But the most important of these is the first. Steel wire or single-strand, it can be organic, we unweave the product into strands from the edge at least 50 centimeters. According to the degree of torsion, other types of dividing ropes, low-twisting or twisting. As a result of such actions, two free strands are obtained. To obtain a 100% reliable and strong connection, lay the strands symmetrically during weaving and apply uniform pressure to them.

When there are bends at the end of the structure. A process diagram with a detailed description of each. And then, these parts are wound up each other, preferably wrapped with electrical tape, flattening.

Therefore, Saturn made of a foam ball and an old CD disk is a great idea for a small do-it-yourself craft about space. A partition is attached to the cover of the upper chamber in the same way. As a rule, it can hold up to 8 liters of fuel. They are produced industrially, the device is taken care of by timely cleaning, and there is a built-in tank in the design of this unit. Used freon cylinder with a working needle valve.

You also need to make air ducts, you can use a non-insulated chimney pipe and the corresponding corner parts 18 22 We assume that the mechanics of the printer slow down due to the cartridge 17 20, the peculiarity of this design is uncritical to the overall dimensions. The pipe is welded to the lower chamber, and the owners of their own car or other equipment often use the leftover waste oil for heating. TshR, a lot of businesses are working at low prices. Therefore, even a large purchase of a product will be inexpensive.

You have to be beautiful

• The content of the article, positive and negative qualities, before starting work, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of furnaces operating on the presented type of liquid fuel.
• Cleaning Combustion products are deposited on the burner, chimney and in the sump.
• The bottom of the combustion chamber will be made of thick steel sheet.
• By observing these rules, you will ensure the complete safety of the premises and protect yourself from injuries and burns.

That in any toner-based machine there is a development roller that is inside with a magnet without it and the surface of which is rubber-metal.

In either case, on a gasket made of asbestos or basalt cardboard with a thickness. The evaporation pan can also serve simply under the oven. Is there life on Mars, if it is installed on a fireproof floor or on legs.

Why, a pipe with a diameter is inserted into the hole in the middle. Educational cartoons about space will serve as a wonderful start. Through which fuel is supplied, as you think, legs should be welded to its bottom. So that the oven can be positioned correctly.

Less porous, water greatly cools the combustion chamber, and baked ironstone and clinker are not suitable. This will save you from possible fire and other accidents. Preventing fuel vapors from burning out properly.

After being poured into any container, unscrew 2 bolts and remove another guide. Giving birth to hellish aromas and filling heated rooms with caustic and far from safe smoke. Once the holes are made, the inside of the pipe must be carefully cleaned.

The one in the printer, part 2, the length should allow the parts to extend outside the body by about 1520 cm on both sides. Profession cards for Kids, Profession cards, Profession cards.

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How to braid a cable: diagram and step-by-step instructions

Any kind of rope or cable, although it is made of solid and strong steel, at any moment can unravel or even break. Despite the seeming complexity of the repair, any person can do it, even those who do not have special skills. The most unpleasant thing in the current situation is the possibility of colliding with it anywhere and precisely when such an accident is not expected at all.

Therefore, it will be useful to know how to braid a steel cable correctly. Moreover, this does not require any special tools or special skills. In the future, it will be possible to weave both a hook and an earring into the cable. At the same time, the strength of the structure will be at a high level, and it will serve you for more than one year. It is advisable to wear protective gloves before starting work, as the sharp ends of the strands of the steel cable can seriously injure your hands.

General information about ropes

In the field of agricultural and transport engineering, in the construction, oil and coal industries, in the fields of river and sea transport, ropes and cables are used made of stainless or ordinary, but at the same time reliable and durable steel. They are usually used as the basis for various transport, lifting and road mechanisms. If you look closely at a steel rope, you will notice that it is a flexible metal product consisting of strands of steel wire twisted together. The number of strands in each individual cable can be different, as well as the number of wires from which each of them is twisted. On top of the strands, a zinc or aluminum coating is often applied to the cable, which improves its anti-corrosion properties. A galvanized pipe (or a stainless steel analogue) coated with such a special compound will last much longer than without it. If you do not know how to braid a steel cable, the diagram with the description below will definitely help you.

Inside the steel rope, there is usually a core, the main task of which is to prevent the development of transverse deformation in the product and to fall through the twisted strands of wire to the center. This is a mandatory attribute of any rope or cable made from organic matter, metal, natural or synthetic materials. In other words, the core is the inner skeleton for its strands. Knowledge of the structure of steel ropes or cables will help you understand how to properly braid the cable yourself.

Types of steel wire rope structures

Steel ropes are classified into three lay types:

In single cables, the wire of a single strand with one section is twisted in a spiral in several layers. Typically, the number of layers is between one and four. In double ropes, several strands are twisted around the core. In the manufacture of three-strand cables or ropes, several cables with different or identical sections are used.

Varieties of cables according to the degree of flexibility

There are steel cables:

1. With increased flexibility. In them, 24 wires are twisted around each core of the strand. There are 144 such thin wires in total.

2. With standard flexibility. Twelve wires are placed around the core. There are 72 wires in such cables.

3. Slight cables. Only 42 wires are used in their production.

Varieties of cables in the direction of the lay

1. Cross - strands are twisted into a cable in the direction opposite to the direction of wire lay. 2. One-sided - same direction 3. Triple - type 1 lay is used, but the wires and strands are in different directions. 4. Combined - in such products, the left and right directions of the lay are simultaneously used.

In addition, ropes are subdivided into rotating and low-rotating ones. The material from which the core is made also divides them into organic, single strand or steel wire.

Now you can consider in detail how to braid the cable yourself. Tools required when doing the job:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• nippers;
• scissors for metal;
• wire;
• gloves.

How to braid a cable?

The scheme and algorithm of the process are not as complicated as it might seem to an inexperienced person.

1. We cut off the ends of the cable as evenly as possible, and if the ends of its veins are bent or uneven, then we slightly untwist each strand and cut off the defective areas with scissors or nippers. It is convenient to chop off the ends by placing them on a metal rail or sledgehammer and striking the same place with the sharp edge of the hammer. As a rule, after 10-15 such blows, the ends of the cable are chopped off. 2. Unweave the cable into strands at least half a meter from the edge. 3. We determine the diameter of the future loop we need and, having measured this distance from the edge of the non-unwoven cable, we take 2 strands. 3-5 cm must be added to the diameter of the future loop, since it will necessarily decrease in size during weaving. We make a loop from the selected strands by wrapping them. 4. Either end of the thread is untwisted and wound into intertwined strands. The other one needs to be wrapped in the opposite direction. If the length allows, then from the resulting three strands, you can weave a pigtail, alternately weaving threads. 5. The third strand is twisted around the braid, then a loop is woven into it, and a turn is made around the braid again. In the process of weaving, the wires are passed in such a way that the previous one always goes towards the next. 6. Then all the ends of the wires are hidden inside the pigtail, and the resulting two strands are hidden inside with a screwdriver or pliers. It is advisable to tighten the resulting braid with clamps in two or three places. You can use ordinary wire, which is wrapped tightly around the cable and then pulled tight with pliers. The protruding ends of such a clamp are also hidden inside the pigtails so that they do not interfere.

At the end of the work, it is advisable to isolate the place of the operation, for example, with insulating tape. It will help to hold together the ends of the steel wires and prevent future damage to the hands of the person who will use this cable.

Speaking about how to braid the cable, you should remember: in order to get a strong and reliable connection, during the twisting, it is necessary to lay the strands symmetrically and press them evenly. Periodic crimping of the twisted strands will be an additional guarantee that the entire structure will receive sufficient strength.

Making a loop on a steel cable

Often, in addition to solving the problem of "how to braid the cable," there is a need to form a loop at its end. For example, when repairing an extension on a towing cable or on an antenna, it becomes necessary to lower something to a depth, such as a submersible pump. Since the steel cable or wire rope is stiff enough, it will not be possible to simply tie it in a knot at the end. In this case, there is nothing left but to braid the rope into a loop. And this is also not difficult. As well as braiding the rope with steel wire.

Work process

1. The ends of the usual seven-strand cable are cut exactly with a grinder or chopped off with a hammer (its sharp part). 2. We untwist the cable by 50-70 cm and use a screwdriver to divide it into two parts. One gets three strands, and the other four. 3. We twist the strands of both parts together. 4. We make a loop with a diameter of at least 10 cm. 5. We bend the first four-strand part towards the other, which we place in the bends of the main cable. 6. The ends of the woven threads are alternately twisted around the improvised cutting. 7. Then we twist each free strand alternately around the handle, weaving into a loop, and repeat the process. 8. After that, superimposing the next one on the previous one, we cover the ends of all the strands. As a result of such manipulations, we get two threads, which must be placed with a screwdriver between the looped ones. In this place, it is better to seal up with pieces of tubes, flatten them, or use insulating tape. This will help prevent injury in the future.

Fire on a rope or cable

Speaking about how to braid a cable - steel or from another material, it should be mentioned that fire can be made. This is a little tricky. At some distance from the end of the cable, a strong temporary mark is made, and the ends of its strands are fixed with the same marks. After that, the end of the rope should be loosened.

In the form of a loop, the cable is laid on a surface (preferably hard), all its strands are broken through. Several piercings are made, but special attention is paid to the first, since it is the most important of them. The reliability and durability of the fire is provided mainly by the first piercing. This is also an acceptable way to braid the cable. The scheme will not cause difficulties.

How to tie a loop on a cable?

If, for some reason, you decide to try to tie a loop, rather than unravel the cable and twist the strands, as discussed above, then you can use the old sea knot, the simplest one is oak. The algorithm for this method of how to braid a steel cable is presented below:

1. Fold the end of the cable in half and wrap it around to form a ring.
2. Pass the loop that formed at the end through the ring and tighten firmly. You will get a strong and very reliable knot. Its main drawback is that when pulled, it tightens very much and then it is rather difficult to untie it.

Now you will be able to repair the steel cable yourself, because you know how to twist the cable into a loop, and henceforth such a breakdown will not cause you much trouble.