National dress is shaped by several factors. Climate, life, faith and other nuances of life are important. Yakut costume is designed for cold climates... Some elements of national dress were taken from other peoples, but the costume does not lose its originality from this.
Yakuts live in Yakutia and Krasnodar Territory. Small ethnic communities live in the Amur Region. Also, Yakuts live on the territory of Magadan and Sakhalin.
The first national costume appeared in the 18th century. It was an outer garment with natural fur and some decorative elements (embroidery, metal parts). Then coarse fabrics, furs, leather, silk were used.
The Yakuts were mainly engaged in cattle breeding, so they used natural leather, suede and fur for their wardrobe. Usually, short-haired animals were "exploited", but the fur of long-haired animals was also used for insulation.
Important! Long-haired fur was used for decorative purposes, decorating the collar, cuffs, and the general perimeter of the outfit.
Features of styles
The national cut of the Yakut outfit is a straight silhouette with similar sleeves. But there are several options for making the costume. Yakut clothing items:
Each style is characterized by bright decorations. So, tanalai was decorated with a metal pendant, which was placed on the belt. For the cut of kytyylah in women's dress, red dominated in embroidery. The men's suit was treated with duller shades.
What does a woman's suit consist of?
Women's and men's suits had the same cut. They differed only in decorative trim. Yakut wardrobe necessarily included Anna... It was a piece of fabric with which the ladies covered their faces. Materials for women's outfits:
In the women's wardrobe there was a rough shirt, leather pantaloons (the element protected the pelvic region), leggings, a fur coat, a hat and a large number of jewelry. Legs are leather leggings without a foot. The traditional Yakut hat resembled a helmet (as in the photo). Jewelry was of the greatest value. Women decorated all parts of the outfit abundantly... Beaded decoration is still popular today.
Men's suit: details
The attire of men was distinguished by modesty when compared with women. Everyday clothing was trimmed with fur on the cuffs and collar. The decoration was quite voluminous. The headdress had to be practical, to cover the ears from the cold.The hat resembled a helmet. Often, on national headdresses, you can see ears that are associated with space communications.
Children's suits
Children's clothing is a mini copy of adult outfits. For its manufacture, the same materials and fabrics are used: skin, fur, rich decor, beadwork. The headdress is finished with fur.
Modern Yakut costume
A modern suit is made from different materials. Light fabrics such as chiffon, silk, satin are actively used. Popular organza, brocade, suede. Clothes necessarily imply natural fur and rich decor... The outfit is decorated with beads, metal elements, bright rhinestones.
In the modern world, there are many technologies that help to interpret the national dress in a new way. The luxurious decoration looks fabulous, as it uses interesting styles, a bright palette of colors. It looks stylish, but has no historical background.
Important! When creating costumes, designers are guided by fairy-tale characters, so the clothes do not have historical accuracy.
National costumes are worn for holidays, ceremonies and rituals. Some elements are combined with modern outfits. Natural furs and beading are actively used.
The Republic of Sakha (Yakutia)
Suntarskiy ulus (district)
MBOU "Kempendyaiskaya secondary school named after V.I. Ivanov"
Technology lesson, grade 10
The topic of the conversation is "Yakut national costume"
technology teacher and
visual arts
MBOU "Kempendyaiskaya secondary school named after V.I. Ivanov "
from. Kempendiai
Every year, interest in the history of their national culture, the unique values \u200b\u200bof the spiritual andmaterial heritage. Undoubtedly, folk costume is a striking marker of the culture of any people. With its expressive form, functional purpose, methods of material processing, clothing carries information about culture and worldview. Each era forms its own culture, and any culture develops its own ideal, reflected in the symbolism and semantics of the folk costume, on the basis of which the forms and types of modern national clothing are created.
In the old days, the folk (traditional) clothing of the Yakuts, being an integral part of the material environment, was simultaneously associated with the spiritual culture of the people. In particular, with mythological and religious ideas, reflected in the semantics of clothing. The Yakut costume, which was worn for various celebrations and ceremonies, is not only an integral harmonious ensemble endowed with utilitarian and aesthetic functions, but also acts as the main ritual element in the attributes of all ritual actions. Thus, the costume is endowed with a high semiotic status.
The formation of clothing of any nation is influenced by their traditional culture, which is reflected in the cultural and artistic features of the costume. The folk clothing of the Yakuts, being an important historical and cultural source, reflects the aesthetic ideal of the people, their spiritual views and their worldview. From this point of view, Yakut clothing has always attracted the attention of early researchers of the material, spiritual culture of the ethnos and continues to be of great interest to modern ethnographers, culturologists, and art historians.
According to the custom of many peoples, on holidays people came dressed in their best outfits. The Yakut holiday Ysyakh in the old days was the only holiday of communication, for which at the appointed time both old and young from distant areas gathered, therefore, both the wealthy and the poor tried to dress in their best clothes. We were preparing for the holiday long ago. The craftswomen took care of the colorful decoration of the horse and other equipment, the old people made special kumis vessels, ritual utensils, the women sewed elegant clothes for themselves and their families ahead of time.
The old Sakha clothes are of the same cut for men, women and children. It differed only in size, length of the hem, ornamentation. An important role in this was played by the material and manufacturing techniques, which changed depending on the level of production development. A feature of traditional clothing is its convenience, practicality and expediency in performance from the point of view of climatic conditions, household features of the lifestyle, as well as ease of manufacture.It should be noted the richness of raw materials for various types of clothing and attributes of a costume among the Yakuts (for example, from summer hats, happar bags, gloves were sewn from the bull's bubble; accessories in the form of a pouch were made from cow giblets after appropriate dressing, etc.).
INXVII in. Women, like men, did not have underwear; in summer they wore caftan-like coats made of finely cut rovduga, decorated with beaded patches and cut leather appliqués. In winter, they wore the same caftans, warmed with a fur lining of squirrel, ermine skins, fox, polar fox and wolf belly and paws. Only the more prosperous allowed themselves shirts made of Chinese daba or other fabric.
The first Russian people who arrived in the 30sXVIIon the territory of Yakutia, was caught as an elegant fur coat, so this elegant sleeveless jacket was exclusively the bride's wedding clothes, which was sewn for a very long time. In ancient times, the daughter-in-law, according to custom, was to be shown to the groom's relatives for the first three years, only in a tanalai sleeveless jacket.
Yakut bride of the end clothing complexXVII - the beginningXVIII in. looked like this: a rovduzh dress over it a tangalai fur sleeveless jacket. This wedding coat was made of expensive sable and beaver furs, richly decorated with beads and metal plaques. An attribute of such a fur sleeveless jacket is ettuximege nataz jewelry. They were decorated with beads, beads, plaques or leather patches and a set of pendants, consisting of a tubular pincushion, a purse for small things (happar), a tinderbox with a fire-stitch (kyalyk), and a talisman amulet.
For festive and winter clothes, expensive materials are used - cloth, velvet, velvet, brocade, silk. It is decorated with more complex ornaments and various accessories. However, the change in texture affected only the decoration, men's camisoles and women'ssangyyakhi
have not lost their general appearance and style. The cuts in camisoles and fur coats disappeared, they were replaced by a wide flat fold; vintage ritual hatscheers
hats, caps with horns and sultansnuogaydaah
hat, hatwith horns
... They were replaced by cone-shaped hats.diabaka.
For rich people, fur coats are often sewn with fur out of expensive, fox, beaver and lynx furs with cloth lining, usually very bright in color. There are several types of lynx fur: ash blue, spotted and reddish brown. An expensive fancy fur coat was sewn from a spotted lynx, since such fur was considered the most valuable. On the back of a fur coat, near the shoulder blades, sickle-shaped inserts from the fur of a river beaver or otter are always embroidered. The Yakut wears this fur coat not only in winter, but also in summer, when a wedding or a feast happens at this time of the year.
The women's costume, distinguished by its special expressiveness, was a single ensemble consisting of a pointed headdress, loose-fitting outerwear and soft leather shoes with a pointed toe. An important role in the design was played by decorative trim: bright brocade and silk inserts, beaded embroidery, metal plaques, gold and silver embroidery.
An elegant waist dress is a legguardbepchi, which was worn by both men and women.
Traditional clothing has four components: color, material, shape and design. These components are also divided into four main elements: red, yellow, green, black, which are the main colors, the rest of the shades are obtained by mixing them.
From about the turn of the XVIII-XIX centuries. With the arrival of the Russians, manufactured fabrics appeared, and underwear began to spread. The Yakut costume is complemented by decorations and trimmings in green, red, yellow, purple colors and their combinations. There are new types of women's and men's clothing. For festive winter clothes, expensive materials are used - cloth, velvet, velvet, brocade, silk. They are painted with more complex ornaments and various accessories.
In the end XIX - early XX, Russian goods are widely used - cotton and linen fabrics, broadcloth, fabrics of English production - chintz. Calico, canvas. Winter fur coats began to be covered with cloth or velvet. In the decoration of clothes, they increasingly use multi-colored tinsel, embroidery, gilded or silver thread For festive or weekend clothes, expensive fabrics were used: cloth, velvet, plisse, silk, brocade, Chinese.
New types of headdresses appear (hats, caps, cuban caps).
In the second half of the XX century, the Yakuts of the central uluses most often had moose arches, squirrel and fox fur as materials for clothing, while the Vilyuiskys had deer rovduga, fox and polar fox fur. The modern national costume is the second "I" of its owner. In style, image, level, it must fully correspond to the individual qualities of its owner and reveal its essence. Since the beginning of the 20th century, traditional clothing is completely replaced by urban clothing. Natural raw materials (fur, skins) are used for the manufacture of footwear and hats. Despite the wide distribution of European clothing and footwear, leather footwear is practically not out of use. Hunting and festive clothing is still traditional.
Conclusion
In the end XX century, national dress begins to actively revive. A new direction of clothing appears: stylized, scenic. People's masters reconstruct old types of clothing, are actively promoted among the population and outside the republic. Due to the special cut and style features, national clothes have become a kind of visiting card of the republic /
Folk costume today exists in three directions:
Traditional Sakha clothing, designed for ceremonial and festive occasions. Craftswomen in this direction adhere to a stable tradition of style. Decor and color solutions. The continuity of the traditions of folk sewing is continued in their works by Z. Ponokhova, V. Makarova, Z. Zabolotskaya and others.
The work of folk craftswoman V. Makarova Coat. "Kytyylah sleep"
The work of V. Makarova Bridal dress
The second direction is associated with the modeling of modern national clothes using modern national clothes using new technologies. In this direction, folk craftsmen collaborate with designers and fashion designers. At the same time, there is a mixture of folklore and professional forms of culture.
The work of the folk craftswoman Z. Ponokhova V. National Yakut clothes
The work of Z. Ponokhova wedding clothes
The third direction is formed in a professional stage environment. It does not arise on the basis of everyday life through the development of local traditions; it is stage clothing intended for folklore, ethnographic. Dance and vocal groups, as well as for individual pop performers-artists of the Yakut stage
A. Filippov, artist-designer Avant-garde costume "Cholbon"
A. Filippova artist-designer "Aiyy-Kuo" suit
National dress has become a full-fledged component of modern culture. A new breath of this cultural phenomenon, when the unique genre of the Yakut traditional culture, the epic-olonkho, was recognized by UNESCO as one of the world's masterpieces of the intangible cultural heritage of mankind. In this regard, the nationwide holiday "YYYAH" began to be held throughout the republic, the main goal of which is to revive, first of all, the ritual and ceremonial function. Within the framework of such a mass-entertainment activity, one of the tasks is to promote the Yakut national clothes.
References:
Ammosova E.E. Folk origins of creativity. - Yakutsk: Publishing house "Bichik", 1994. 91p., 83 ill.
2. Gavripyeva P.C. Clothing of the Sakha people of the late 17th-mid-18th century. - Novosibirsk:
"The science". Siberian enterprise RAS, 1998 .-- 144 p.
3. Garin N.P. Design for the conditions of the Far North (the principle of cultural succession
4. Gogolev A.I. Yakuts (problems of ethnogenesis and culture formation). - Yakutsk:
Edition of the magazine "Ilin", 1993. - 151 p.
5. Ermilova D.Yu. Environmental Direction in Fashion Design / Design Problems
costume and ways of their research: Sat. scientific. tr. / Under the general editorship of Ph.D., associate professor
G.M. Huseynova. - M .: Department of Costume Design, 1997.-S. 12-39
6. Kalashnikova N.M. Folk costume. - M .: "Svarog and K", 2002. - 374s.
7. Kalashnikova N.M. Traditional costume of the peoples of Russia in the 19-20 centuries. - SPb .: 1996.-134
8. Maak R.K. Vilyui district. - 2nd ed., - M .: "Yana", 1994. - 592 p.
9. Heystroev B.F. Sakha Ornamenara. - Dyokuuskaj k .: "Polygraphist" YANTSSO AN USSR,
1989.98s.
10. Nosov M.M. Evolutionary development of Yakut clothing from the end of HUP1 to the 1920s
/ Sat. scientific. Art. YKM. - Yakutsk: Book. publishing house, 1957. - Issue 2. - S. 116. -152
11. Osipova M. Yakutskaya wedding clothing. - Yakutsk: Yakutsk University, 1974.-38 p.
12. Petrov N.E. From the ancient history of the Sakha people. - Yakutsk: NKI "Bichik", 2003.-114 p.
13. Petrova S.I. Ritual clothing of the Sakha people (ethnography, ethnology and anthropology):
14. Petrova S.I. Yakut wedding dress: traditions and reconstruction - Novosibirsk:
Science, 2006 .-- 104 p.
15. Petrova S.I. 0buge tanaabauonnaitegele (Traditional clothing and worldview
our ancestors). Study guide. - Yakutsk: Bichik, 1999 - 80 th., Ill.
16. Savvinov I.E. Obugalarbitolohtorodiabakhtar. - Yakutsk: Book. ed., 1992.-40s.
In modern society, it is rare to find a person in a national costume, however, despite this, the traditional clothes of each people and ethnic groups still remain part of the material culture. And at the same time it is a vivid embodiment of historically formed religious beliefs, spiritual values, climatic characteristics, and economic structure. By the transformation of clothing, one can trace the evolutionary development of different civilizations. A striking example of this is the Yakut national dress.
National clothes of Yakutia - features
The traditional clothing of Yakutia acquired its characteristic features and characteristics in the XӀӀӀ century, already at that time the population used materials of different colors and textures, motley fur, various elements of decoration. The costumes were made of cloth, jacquard silk, leather, rovduga. Decorated with ornamental inserts, embroidery, beads, pendants. Most of all, this color was present in the outer national clothes of Yakutia.
Of course, many of the features of the costume were determined by the polar climate and the main activity - herd cattle breeding and cattle breeding. Therefore, most of the clothes, especially the poor classes, were made of leather and suede. Fur stripes were sewn to warm the outfit. Imported silks and woolen fabrics were used as decoration; only rich people could afford them.
Women's national clothes of Yakutia
Everyday women's Yakut national clothing differed from men's only in the presence of decor, which was used as stripes of cut leather, beaded and fur stripes. Basically, these are products of a straight cut, due to the size and shape of the material.
The situation was different with the festive Yakut national clothes - women at that time had a more complex cut, with gathers on the sleeves and flared at the bottom. Particular attention was paid to decorating the festive attire.
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Ysyakh Tuymaady - 2017. Head of the city of Yakutskin2017 Aisen Nikolaev (center) on the sacred land of Us-Khatyn.
According to fashion experts, entire regions of Russia have already emerged, where folk costume has ceased to be a museum exhibit and is trying to return to everyday life.
Last week I wrote about, this week is the turn of Yakutsk.
Did you know that in the spring of 2015, the leaders of the Verkhnevilyuisky ulus (district) of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) began once a week - on Mondays - to come to work in national Yakut frock coats, stating that ethnic clothing disciplines, enhances the culture of communication, and also rallies collective? 
Pleaders of the Verkhnevilyuisky ulus in national Yakut frock coats
"Today the heads of departments came in national clothes. Usually people wear national clothes only on Ysyakhs. But these clothes are beautiful and comfortable. We decided to sew a more formal version and wear it at work on Mondays. In the future, we also plan to come to official events in national clothes, "" - said the deputy head and manager of the administration of the Vernevilyuisky ulus Spiridon Borbuev.
Yakuts really love to wear national clothes on Ysyakh, in 2017 they even broke another Guinness world record with a massive appearance in traditional clothes.
Ysyakh is a Yakut summer holiday, traditionally celebrated on the summer solstice, but after World War II, due to the mournful date, it began to be held between June 10 and June 25, depending on the ulus, weekend schedule, local preferences, etc. etc.
June 27, 2015 in the Us Khatyn area near the city of Yakutsk Head of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) Yegor Borisov and Chairman of the Federation Council of the Federal Assembly of the Russian Federation Valentina Matvienko took part in the opening ceremony of the traditional folk holiday "Ysyakh Tuymaady".
Ysyakh Tuymaady - 2017
Left: Minister of Nature Protection of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) Sakhamin AFANASIEV with his daughter
Right: Deputy of Il Tumen Alexander SUSOEV with his wife
16 626 people in national clothes at Ysyakh Tuymaada - 2017 beat another world Gunnessa
And what is it like, traditional Yakut clothes and what do we know about it?
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National clothes of different nationalities often have a clear imprint not only of everyday life, way of life, but also of climatic conditions. The Yakut national costume was created specifically for the difficult climatic conditions of the North. Of course, it also contains a certain number of elements borrowed from other peoples, but this does not at all create a negative impression of the Yakut costume.
History reference
The Yakuts, as a national community, are by far the most concentrated in Yakutia and the Krasnoyarsk Territory. A small number of people of this nationality can be found in the Magadan, Sakhalin and Amur regions.
The earliest examples of the national dress of the Yakuts are considered to be costumes that arose in the XIII century. Basically, these are outerwear with pronounced folk ornaments, decorations and elements. The national Yakut costume of that time was created from the fur of motley animals, rough cloth and silk, and leather.
Already in the Christian era (17-18 centuries), the traditional set of outerwear was made from the skins and fur of domestic animals, since the main activity of the Yakuts was horse and cattle breeding. Suede, leather and fur of short-haired pets are especially popular. For additional insulation during especially frosty periods, Yakut craftsmen used animal skins with fluffy, long-haired fur. This option looked more like a decorative ornament of a classic national costume: fur strips were sewn around the perimeter of outerwear, as cuffs on sleeves, and also wide warm collars.
Cut features
Each folk dress is often based on a straight silhouette with the same sleeves. The traditional Yakut costume is no exception.
However, there are several variations in its "design":
Yakut national costume "buuktaakh sleep"
onoloh, buuktah... Yakut craftsmen, without undue hesitation, based this type of cut on the features of tailoring for the Russian military and avid travelers. Of course, it was not without exclusively national inclusions. The name of this cut is due to the presence of folds on the back - "ono" and the original model of the sleeve - "buuk" (puff-shaped). Outerwear (most often a coat), sewn according to this principle, was worn in the same way by both men and women. The main materials for making Yakut national costumes of this cut were: leather and daba (Chinese paper fabric) - for men; fur and suede (depending on the season) - for women. Velvet stripes on the collar and cuffs served as decoration;
Women's clothing "kytyilaakh sleep"
kytyilaakh... Appeared in the Yakut everyday life much later than the first type of cut and differs from it only in some details. For example, a double wide cloth strip, which was placed along the edge of the side of the outer national clothing.
The main feature of a women's summer coat, made using the kytyylah cut, is the presence of red threads in the ornament that adorns the perimeter of the clothes and sleeves. In men's models, built according to the same principle, there are more strict and dull colors;
tanalai. One of the most ancient types of cut. Traditional winter Yakut clothing, which was made of rovduga (deer or elk suede) using fur of fur animals. The peculiarities of this cut are the presence of a fur shoulder pad, which was located at the junction of the sleeve and armhole. Side slits, shiny metal pendants at the waist. Some historians insist that this type of cut was typical for wedding dresses.
Women's clothing "taqalay dream"
Basically, the female national costume of the Yakuts did not differ much from the male one. The main differences are colors, additional decor, and the use of various materials.
Women's Yakut costume
Suit "khassiat, haladaai"
The main materials for the manufacture of traditional clothing for women in Yakutia:
everyday - practical and durable chintz and satin;
festive - expensive, beautiful and shiny silk and satin;
outerwear - fur, suede with skillful addition of pieces of silk or fur national ornaments.
The national fur coat of an adult Yakut woman bears the name sanyah, sewn from the skins of wild animals: sable, wolf, wolverine or fox. This is one of the most important items in a bride's wedding dress. On the back, the skin was laid out in such a way that a pattern in the form of spread wings was obtained from the fur.
In general, the classic Yakut wedding wardrobe of a woman consisted of the main elements:
- Annakh is a special piece of fabric that covers the face.
- Underwear shirt made of coarse rovduga.
- Leather pantaloons that mainly cover the pelvic part of the bride.
- Legs are special leggings made of the skin of a wild animal, which resembled boots, but ended in the ankle area, did not have a foot.
- Fur coat is a warm fluffy coat.
- A traditional headdress that resembled a military helmet in its cut and appearance.
- A large number of decorations. This element among the Yakuts was considered one of the most important in women's clothing. At the same time, everything was decorated: clothes, shoes, head, chest, hands. Yakut beadwork is especially popular to this day. Its foundations are passed down from mother to daughter.
The costume of the Yakutian woman exactly repeated the costume of an adult woman. It was typical for the girl to use the edge around the perimeter of the cap.
National Yakut costume for men
Of course, clothes for men differed from women in special modesty. The main feature was considered the presence of fur trim on the sleeves and collar.
Men's caftan
The pile height of such a finish could reach the maximum values. The headpiece also necessarily resembles a helmet in its shape, it was made of natural fur and covered the ears, cheekbones and a little chin area from frost. At the end of such a Yakut cap there was usually a full moon or sun, which signified the continuation of the family.
Since childhood, Yakut boys wore national clothes, completely repeating, in their cut and decoration, the clothes of adult men.
Costumes of indigenous Yakuts today
In the modern world, a wider range of fabrics, textures and decorations is used for the manufacture of national clothes.
Today they are a national treasure and practically a special object of pride and national art worthy of museums and exhibitions. These are always expensive high-quality fabrics and furs, sewn and finished in the best Yakut traditions. Of course, modern designers have moved far enough from the ancient heritage, constantly making their own adjustments, their vision and their creativity.
From here
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As already mentioned, the Yakuts wear national Yakut clothes for the traditional Ysyakh holiday in June.
But in addition to this, they have another new holiday, invented quite recently, in 2012 - the Day of the National Master, dedicated to the national craftsmen of the republic. In total, there are over 200 holders of the title of "folk master" in Yakutia and more than 350 masters of folk arts and crafts.
The Day of the National Master is celebrated on March 5, when it is still winter and there is a lot of snow in Yakutia, and on this day a very beautiful procession of craftsmen in winter national clothes of the Sakha people and indigenous small peoples of the North is organized, in which all 22 ulus of the republic are represented.
There is also a brand in Yakutia Sahabultwith a company store.
This is how they are reviving and promoting their national costume in Yakutia.
Well, how do you feel about such ethno-initiatives and holidays in Yakutia?
