Silk top pattern with straps. We sew a top with shoulder straps without a pattern. What to look for

Every girl and woman wants to be individual, so more and more often people sew clothes for themselves, rather than buy them in stores. This article describes how to sew a top with your own hands, and also presents several patterns.

Materials from which tops are made

Like most things, tops are divided into several types according to the type of fabrics used: knitted or sewn from fabric.

They can be distinguished externally. The fabrics from which the products are sewn have no prohibitions on the fibrous structure. For knitwear, thin materials used for T-shirts are used: kulirnaya fabric and erasers of various types. Since tops are worn on the body as the main layer, you need to select fabrics from natural threads, in which there is high air circulation, as well as hypoallergenicity. For products that will be analogous to blouses, it is advisable to choose light materials from natural or mixed fabrics.

Top bando

Sometimes the use of materials with the addition of elastane is allowed, thanks to which the thing sits better. For tops that are worn on a go out or on holidays, it is possible to use materials and fabrics made of synthetic fibers, polyester, polyamide. In this case, you need to take into account the degree of elasticity and the presence of cutouts in the product to ensure a pleasant wearing of the thing.

Sewing tops from fabric is performed in several steps, pattern and, of course, the sewing itself. The shirt should always be loose and not restrict movement. Cotton fabric is suitable for all skin types, it is natural so it will not cause redness and irritation.

Tops' patterns are not very complicated, so you can draw them yourself or find them in different workshops. Below are several main types of products.

Top pattern with stitching

We sew a top with a facing. Cut out elements with narrow seams, and add 4 cm to the hem of the hem. Smooth the non-woven fabric onto the outer edging elements.

The pattern is shown in fig. 4.

Summer top pattern with neck straps

The pattern of a top with shoulder straps is made from light fabrics such as cotton or linen. T-shirts are mostly made from stretch fabrics and knitwear, but they don't need to be used for this pattern.

It will be interesting for you Easy and simple dressing gown patterns: we sew ourselves

For the product, it is best to choose silk materials, for example, satin. This top is quite difficult to perform. Therefore, for a start, it is better to make a probe for your figure.

This option is performed with neck straps, so it is advisable to make an open back and shoulders in it. You can make a smell in the front. The T-shirt pattern on thin straps is ready.

Summer top with simple cut darts

It is advisable to use elastic and knitted materials here. The peculiarity of the drawing is in the edging of the armholes and throat. A satin ribbon or bias tape is perfect for this. If you change the pattern a little, you will not get a top, but a T-shirt dress. Will go well with skirts or pants.

Top with decorative ties at the neck

Measurements that are necessary to build a circuit:

• Bust or hip girth (if the product is up to the waist line, then only exhaust gas is needed);
• Product length (it is better to measure from the front).

You need to choose the depth of the cut of the armhole and the dimensions of the middle cut. The front and back drawing looks like a rectangle with the top corners cut off.

The width of this rectangle (AB) will be exactly half the base of the product. For this product you need to add 7cm to the half-girth of the chest.

Asymmetric jersey front

A sketch of a product with an asymmetric shelf is made without seam allowances. When sewing, add approx. 2 cm seam allowance.

You can make edging with a bias tape.

V-neck piping

Work process:

• Make a binding out of base material or an eraser. It is necessary to check the elasticity of the edging so that you can easily put the shirt over the throat;
• Sew the element along the short part to make a ring;
• Fold the element and iron it well;

• Fold the edging with the neck cut with the outer parts together, connecting one shoulder cut of the top and the stitching seam of the element;
• Fix with pins, parallel to the cut, equally distributing the sizes of the sections. Sweep if necessary;
• Overlock the edges;
• Iron the seams of the top.

With upright and back cutout

This is a rather interesting style of the product; it can be sewn from silk fabric. This look will be good for parties or celebrations.

After cutting out the elements of the product, you need to duplicate the collar, the upper part with soft material, the lower one with hard material. This technique differs slightly from the classic one due to the use of a stand-up collar.

Painting gradient

Polo top without buttons

Like a classic polo shirt, the top should be buttonless. Moreover, for the pattern, you can use different fabrics, from silk to chintz, all materials will look good. It is advisable to make the clasp and collar contrasting.

Instructions for creating a product:

1. Iron the seams and allowances on the product. In this form, sew them to the cut of the throat on the top shelf. Make finishing seams. At the bottom of the cut, lay on top of each other and fix the edging with a finishing seam;
2. Fold the shelf and back of the polo together and start sewing on a typewriter or overlock. Neaten and iron the back;
3. The armholes and hem must be folded twice and secured with a finishing seam. For this operation, it is advisable to use the hemming foot, paying attention to the seams;
4. At the top of the collar, mark the bottom line. Exactly on it, make a line on the overlock. Iron the allowance inward along the finished stitch. Fold the collar element with the outer sides inward to the full length and turn the edges. Iron the lines well. Turn the collar inside out and press it on. Fold the product with the bottom side of the face with the neck of the polo and sew on, carefully making the joining of the elements;
5. Finally, wash and iron the polo top well.

This T-shirt can be used both for everyday life and for going out or in the office. Combines with pants and skirts, is rightfully considered a universal product.

Top pattern with ruffles in the armholes

Phased work:

1. Put the front and back elements together with the outer sides inward, connecting them with side cuts;
2. Sew all the details on a typewriter;
3. On the front side, make a border with a bias tape or satin ribbon;
4. Sew the piping to the armhole, making allowances of 0.5 cm;
5. Sew a hem allowance. This must be done in order to secure the tape to the inside;
6. Fold the tape to the wrong side and fix it with pins;
7. To process the seams on the overlock;
8. Next, you need to start making a shuttlecock and sew it along the cut;
9. Sew the ribbon to the bottom of the shuttlecock;
10. Sew on the tape on the overlock;
11. Sew the shuttlecock to the front of the top.

The shoulders in the product can be lowered, then the style will turn out to be more delicate. Suitable for special occasions or going on a date. Looks very nice with a sun skirt and high heels.

Sewing a top according to the constructed pattern

There are a lot of options for sewing tops, it can be with flounces, a neckline, ties or buttons. The main thing in the work is to include all the talent and imagination.

Decorating with beads

Step-by-step process of work:

• circle the patterns on the material with chalk or soap;
• transfer the sketch of the extreme darts (if any) to the front parts - circle only along the edges of the darts, without allowances;
• cut out elements from the fabric and immediately sew on the darts;
• sew the back and shelf along the shoulder cuts;
• process the edges of the product.

Anything can be used as decoration. These can be stripes, rhinestones, brooches or textile flowers. The embroidery on the top will look beautiful. If desired, the fabric can be dyed or a gradient made from textile paint. But if there is no experience in this, then it is better to turn it into a studio, since if you overexpose the paint on the T-shirt, then it will be ruined.

How to sew a topic with your own hands without a pattern

Almost any top can be sewn without a pattern, since this is the simplest product.

For him you need a regular old T-shirt, thread with a needle and scissors. Cut off the sleeves from a matching shirt. Next, you need to process the edges on the overlock with short stitches. The bottom of the shirt should be shortened to the waistline or higher, this is at the request of the person. The bottom line also needs to be processed on a typewriter so that the threads do not stick out, it should be wide and a little free. In the end, you need to decorate the top of your choice, for example, a patch or a brooch.

For work, you can use silk or chiffon. But in this case, you need to remember that caring for materials will not be quick and capricious. It is necessary to wash in warm water, special products and dry away from sunlight or heating appliances. You need to iron such products only in a delicate mode and do not use steamers.

T-shirt with frills

In conclusion, it should be noted that making a top with your own hands is not difficult. The main thing is to correctly take measurements and choose the material. For certain styles, only silk or cotton can be used. It all depends on the season, for example, for the summer period, it is better to take light and breathable materials, and for autumn, you can take denser fabrics. It can be either on the way out or pajamas for a comfortable sleep.

Greetings, dear readers of the blog site! Today I will tell you how, and you can download pattern 44 size or build a top pattern by ourselves.

I will not describe the charms of the top as a wardrobe item, its convenience and compatibility with various options for skirts, trousers and shorts. This particular model I sewed from the remnants of the fabric from which I sewed the dressing gown with a wrap size 42 (with a pattern for download) the day before.

The fabric for the top can be conditionally divided into two types:

• stretch fabrics (stretch)
• non-stretch fabrics (natural: cotton, poplin, linen)

This choice of fabric affects the choice of pattern:

• If the fabric stretches, then you can build a pattern with negative increments, or cut out a top, taking as a basis an already existing tight-fitting T-shirt; for a top made of stretch fabric, most likely, chest darts are not needed.
• The pattern for a non-stretching top is built on the basis of a pattern with a chest dart or a pattern without a dart, a top with a dart on the chest will fit the figure, a top without a chest dart will be loose, like a man's shirt.

We choose the desired pattern based on the fabric you have and proceed to cutting and sewing.

If the size suits you, download the 44 size pattern and print it on A4 sheets.

Sew a top with your own hands step by step

For this top I needed:

1. cotton fabric 0.5 m
2. elastic band for gathering 1m
3. threads to match
4. good mood!

The process of sewing a top is not difficult in my opinion, but I often spend more time than I could while finalizing the pattern. You also get the “cream” of the process in the description, so I never worry about sharing my patterns - they have been tested on me!

I sew a cotton top, it does not stretch, so I am making a chest tuck.

We cut out the details of the front and back, we make out the chest dart on a typewriter:

Cut out a strip of fabric for the ruffle.

Usually, in order for the fabric to lie in a small fold, you need to take 1.5 lengths, (that is, for example, the circumference of the top above the chest = 80 cm, then we cut out a strip of fabric 120 cm long).

The width of the stripe for the ruffle is also desired, I made it 6 cm wide.

Sew the strip for the ruffle into a ring, process the lower cut of the ruffle with a double hem and iron it.

See also:

Then, along the upper cut, we make a machine line on the largest stitch, this is done in order to then pull one of the threads in the seam and gather the fabric evenly until the circumference of the strip for ruffle is reduced to the desired size.

We sew the ruffle to the top cut of the top:

We retreat 2 mm from the top edge of the top and lay a machine stitch to fix the ruffle around the entire circumference of the top.

We measure ourselves in the girth above the chest with an elastic band, then sew the elastic into a ring:

Now we insert the elastic between the ruffle and the main part of the top and make a line on a typewriter, creating a drawstring 1 cm wide.On one side (near the side seam), you will need to leave an unstitched segment = 2 cm (just in case, if you need to adjust the tightness of the elastic).

Now let's make the straps for the top:

Here is such a beautiful top. Considering that it was sewn from the remnant (that is, it could simply not be, like a product), I am especially in awe of such things, created from almost nothing!

And in the next article I will tell you how I sewed an asymmetrical skirt, so fashionable this season (as in the photo above).

Sew with me, dear readers, send your work in the comments and write to me, I will answer and help!

See also an excellent video about how sew a top with a flounce on the shoulders, now I myself want such a top too:

You've all paid attention to how such a small wardrobe item - a top - can complement your invented image, decorate your look and create a unique style! Tops are different - from a simple T-shirt to fashionable fantasy designs. Even a small tight T-shirt can be sewn from lace fabric and supplemented with winning accessories, not to mention all the abundance of fabrics, textures, decoration techniques, various ribbons, brooches, rhinestones, types of decorative straps and trimmings - all your imagination! In order to start the modeling lesson, all we have to do is print your basic pattern, which fully corresponds to your individual size characteristics and fits your figure perfectly. Where can you get the basic pattern, you ask? And I will say that everything is very simple! You just need to follow the link, where the interactive service will form your basic design according to your individual dimensional characteristics:

First step. First, let's print out your basic pattern. I advise you to print the basic dress pattern. Now we will make changes in it that will be necessary to model any of the tops presented in this article. First, we will transfer the bust and shoulder darts to the armhole. To do this, we need to retreat from the previous armhole of the shelf along the shoulder cut to the right a distance equal to the size of the chest dart and draw the shoulder cut as shown in Figure 1. We will do the same with the scapular dart. We will simply forget about the waist darts on the back and on the shelf, as if they had never existed before. And also outline the bottom line of the topic. You can choose this line arbitrarily, depending on your desire, it can be elongated (below the line of the hips, and it can also be shortened. In our case, the line of the bottom of the topic is 4 cm below the point where the waist darts end.

Second step. Our basic pattern for the topic is almost ready - it remains to draw the line of the lower cut. We step down from the middle of the shelf 1 cm and smoothly round it to the side. Let's do the same with the back. Figure 2 shows with a red line how to make this smooth rounding.

Step three. And now we will consider several models of tops that you can very easily sew from the pattern of the topic that we got in the last two steps. Let's take a look at the simplest version of the topic:

This is a regular T-shirt with a wide strap. It's just that the neck is designed differently in these three options. ... In Figure 3, the blue dashed line shows the neck of the topic, which is shown in the middle. For him, the armhole line does not need to be modified. And the red line shows the neckline for the topics shown on the left and right. Plus, for them, you need to slightly change the armhole line - it is shown with a green line.

Fourth step. The photos below show several variations of the batwing tops. They look very stylish, and at the same time they are incredibly easy and simple to sew. All of them are made on the basis of our drawing # 2.

Let's get started with the shelf. Figure 4 shows that we just need to continue the shoulder cut line to the required length. Bat sleeves can be either long or short. Our picture shows the middle variant.

We make the back in the same way - it is shown in Figure 5.

Fifth step. Also, a T-shirt with thin straps can become a cute and funny top, which, with the original design, will emphasize your personality and style. Let's look at a few options:

The red line in Figure 6 shows how to draw the neckline and the armhole line for the top shown on the left. The blue line shows the T-shirt in the middle. And the green line is the top on the right. Do not forget that for these T-shirts you need to calculate the length of the straps!

Sixth step. An American T-shirt, when made from beautiful gilded jersey, or with a lace insert, or simply decorated with an original print, can also become a favorite wardrobe item.

Moreover, its design is ridiculously simple:

Seventh step. The crop top with short one-piece sleeves looks very cute!

And besides, it is very easy to sew! Modeling should be done according to the "bat" cut principle. How, see figure 8:

Final touches. Of course, in this tutorial we covered the simplest tops designs. There are complex topics, such as in the photo below:

They can also be made from our basic design, but not in one step, but in several. We will deal with this in the next lessons, but for now, do not forget that fashion is the weapon of all girls, and being beautiful and stylish is within the power of each of us!

Also, do not forget that for all structures presented in this lesson, seam allowances must be made. On all parts, the seam allowances will be 1 cm, and at the bottom of the product - 2.5 cm.

Show your creative imagination and you will look irresistible! I wish you success!

Good afternoon, my dear self-taught seamstresses. I continue to publish articles of the sewing cycle. As you remember, 2-3 months ago I told about a simple and understandable way to create your individual base pattern... The one and only basic pattern, according to which all other dresses, T-shirts, blouses, jackets and even coats are created and sewn))).

And today I feel a surge of strength, sufficient to return to modeling based on our basic pattern... You, of course, are all waiting for me to tell you about the dress. But I will disappoint you.

We will not start with dresses, we will start with tops and T-shirts and through them we will begin to sneak up on dresses

Because if you created your very first base pattern for your very first time, then the first product you sewn may not turn out as beautiful as you expected - and this will finally kill your faith in your abilities (which I am by no means I want to admit). I know a bunch of people who drew patterns, cut fabrics, sewed cut pieces together, put them on themselves, looked in the mirror and GET DISRUPTED.

This usually happens for the following reasons.

1. The first reason... Your pattern was made with a mistake, and you realized this after you had cut and connected the details of the dress. In the wrong pattern could be to blame incorrect measurement, inattentive adherence to the instructions for drawing a pattern, or the author himself who wrote a training article. Even I, the great and terrible Klishevskaya, can be mistaken (I'm also a human, not a robot), sometimes I find mistakes in my articles and rewrite them from BEFORE publication on the site, and sometimes AFTER you notice it, dear readers (yes, yes there was such a case).

• The second reason. You chose the wrong style of dress and it (although it was sewn correctly) does not suit you, simply because you do not look like that sensual blonde whose photo in a beautiful pink dress inspired you to sewing feats. It's like in a store - dresses hanging in your size range do not always suit your body type (out of 20 dresses in your size, one or two look good on you. That is why I always advise: before you sew anything, find and try on yourself a model with a similar cut; find out if this style suits you, or it is better not even to start sewing it.

Based on these considerations, let's start carefully, be patient without a dress. Let's sew, for starters, a couple of cool topics. You will see it will please you, because ...

Firstly, very little material is needed for the top(in case of a mistake, you risk "spoiling" a small piece of fabric). Top is an ideal way to test your pattern for professional fitness. On a topic, you are without fear in your hands and eyes, you will process the armholes, the neckline - practice, fill your hand - and already you will approach sewing a dress from the position of a "seasoned and experienced fashion designer"))).

Secondly, the topic has one indisputable advantage - it is small. And therefore it is sewn very quickly. You will be delighted with such an instant and easy end result of your sewing experiments.

Thirdly, the topic is easier to sew than the dress; in fact, the topic itself looks like the upper part of a dress of the same style as itself. In theory, by mentally lengthening any topic, we will see a dress. That is why we start working with the firebox.

See for yourself - if we learn to do TOPIK on a round yoke, then after that it will be easy and simple for us to sew already DRESS with a round yoke.

After we practice sewing TOP with flounces, we fearlessly go to buy fabric for a similar "Ruffled" DRESS.

And after sewing TOP with U-shaped with the neckline, where the halves of the bodice overlap each other, we will calmly begin to cut similar dress- even our bodice pattern from the top will suit it, all that remains for us is to lengthen the lower "hem" part of the topic.

In general, I hope you get the idea - what I mean. We will start working with tops, to fill your hand and eye for sewing an already more ambitious project called "DRESS».

We will start with simple models and gradually move forward as they become more complex.

Today you and I will sew top according to your pattern basis... How to make my own basic pattern-base, I told in a special master class - and I tried to "invent" just such a way of creating a pattern, which is understandable even for an "absolute teapot" and a hopeless lazy person (like me) - this fun and absolutely non-boring way creating your basic pattern should you like it.

And since many of us have a base pattern already ready, we will begin to use it for its intended purpose, and we will start sewing tops. The answer to the question Why not start with the dresses?- read in the previous article of the cycle "Sewing tops - quickly and easily".

So, our first topic will be sewn in an absolutely classic style. That is, it will be a simple directly tailored topic without any "bells and whistles".

These are the tops of a straight silhouette:

But you will not be bored with sewing such simple tops. Because…

This lesson three IMPORTANT tasks:

First task- remember that basic patterns are of several types - depending on which silhouette of the product we need (adjacent, semi-adjacent, straight)

Second task- CHECK WHETHER OUR BASIC PATTERN IS REALLY FIT FOR US. Well, we need to make sure that we drew everything correctly and were not mistaken anywhere, and that the thing made according to the pattern sits well on us and does not wobble or pull anywhere.

The third task- sew a topic with a straight silhouette. And using his example, practice transferring darts from the shoulder (from where it is drawn on the pattern) to the side seam area (where it is always on the clothes, i.e. just below the armpit.

Getting started

The first thing we need is your basic pattern. You have it. But WHICH she?

Now I will remind you of one thing. Remember that at the very beginning, when we just started drawing our base pattern, we had to decide WHAT DEGREE OF FITTING WE WANT TO MAKE THIS BASE - and depending on this, we have drawn this or that width of the base pattern. This is how it looked.

And if we needed an adjacent silhouette, we added 0 cm, if a semi-adjacent 2-3 cm, if a straight 4-5 cm, and if a very spacious dress 6-7 cm.

What to do,

if your BASE PATTERN is drawn with an ADJACENT silhouette in mind.

And you want to sew a topic in a STRAIGHT silhouette.

Let's say that when you drew your pattern, at the very beginning you decided that it would be a pattern for an adjacent silhouette (for sewing dresses that fit the figure). And now you need to sew a straight, non-adjacent topic along it. How to be?

Answer 1- Take 20 minutes and re-draw the same base pattern, but with an allowance for a straight or semi-adjacent silhouette.

Answer 2- Or work with this pattern, but take a knitted or stretch fabric for sewing (so that it stretches). And then it will be possible to cheat and turn the adjacent base pattern into a more spacious and wider one in a simple "clumsy" way - just like in the picture below.

MODELING FROM A BASIC PATTERN - THE PATTERN OF OUR TOP

What we do - we take our pattern, and in order not to spoil the very basic pattern, we will do all the manipulations with its twin copy. To do this, we circle the pattern on a sheet of paper - and on this copy we will make all the manipulations - we will turn the base pattern into a straight top pattern. Namely:

• transfer the dart from the shoulder to the side seam (the dart in the classic version is always hidden under the armpit.

• We will draw the silhouettes of the neckline (that is, we will designate the desired depth of the neckline) and the silhouettes of the armholes we need.

• let's give the drawing a straight (non-fitted) silhouette - we are cutting the top with a straight silhouette.

CARRYING A DUCT.

Who has forgotten what a dart is and why carry it. Let me remind you that we need a dart so that when sewing a product, a natural bulge-capacity is obtained in it, which coincides in size with our breasts. Remember, I told and showed how a flat figure becomes convex, thanks to the undercut? Here are these photos illustrating this process of creating a bulge on the chest, thanks to the dart on the shoulder.

But since the dart on the shoulder is striking, all fashion designers came to a unanimous decision: after constructing the pattern, transfer this dart to the side seam (under the armpit), where the dart will not be covered by the hand and therefore will not be noticeable as if it were stayed on the shoulder.

And here are the photos explaining how to transfer the dart from the shoulder to the side seam line

So we took a copy of our pattern - on it, we did the necessary manipulations (as in the photo above), that is, we transferred the dart to the side seam. That old closed dart can be secured with tape so that it does not open.

WHAT HAS CHANGED ON THE PATTERN AFTER THE TRANSFER OF THE DUCT.

Look at the picture below - there I depicted a pattern with an old dart and a pattern after transferring a dart - they are side by side, and they can be compared.

As you can see, our shoulder line is no longer a broken line, but an even one, and its length coincides with the measurement of our shoulder (you can equalize). The armhole line has also changed for the better, it is now not so much curved, not so rounded - it has become more straight, more similar to what we see on our clothes. That is, the pattern after the transfer of the dart has become more convenient for modeling - and this is very good. Because it is the modeling of simple topics of a semi-adherent silhouette that we will now deal with. Right in the same article.

WE DRAW THE OUTLETS OF THE NECK, PUNCH AND SIDE LINES OF THE TOPIC

And now, on this pattern, we must outline the contours of our topic. That is, we must decide how we want to see the neckline, how wide we want the shoulder straps, and how deep we want to make the armholes.

YOU can draw whatever you want, within this pattern... The main thing is that our neckline covers our breasts, that is, it is a couple of cm higher than the chest line. There are no restrictions in the width of the straps, in the size of the armhole too, it can be arbitrarily deep (the main thing is that you yourself like it).

Now we need to give our top pattern a straight silhouette on the sides - that is, we make it so that it is not fitted.

It's very simple - where we have a side bend at the waist on the pattern - you need to equalize it (so that it doesn't exist) just draw a straight (or very slightly curved) line from the armpit to the thigh. And that's all - here's a straight silhouette.

What you draw is what you get at the exit. For example, I will draw just such a shape for the neck and armholes - and I will get such a topic.

So the pattern is ready. Remember that there are no seam allowances on this pattern. We will draw them directly on the fabric when we trace the pattern with a crayon or pencil (or, if you want, you can immediately draw them on the pattern).

SEW TOP

Now you can sew the top itself:

1.) First we outline the pattern on the fabric. We put the pattern on the fabric, outline it with a pencil or chalk. On the front details from two sides we transfer the drawing of the lateral axillary dart(we circle right along the edge of the darts, of course, without seam allowances - it will simply be closed with a machine stitch).

2.) Cut out these painted parts from the fabric.

3.) On the front part, we immediately sew the darts on both sides. I hope it is clear how - we apply the drawn edges of the darts to each other, sweep them with threads and then put them under the typewriter and sew them with a seam. Whoever doesn't understand, let him take any dress or blouse out of the closet and stroke how the tuck is closed there. So, we closed the dart with a machine stitch - we take out the product from under the machine - and the threads hanging from the edges of the seam can simply be tied in a knot (or if the fabric is transparent, it is better to put them in a hand needle and mask with stitches in the seam and make a knot in the middle of the seam itself).

4.) Now we connect the back part with the front part - side and shoulder seams.

5.) We process the neckline, cutouts of the armholes and the bottom of the product.

How exactly to process, I described in detail in special articles - on working with knitwear, or on working with delicate silk and airy weaves... Everything is told there: and what lines to sew, and how to overcast, and how to work with knitwear without an overlock.

In this part we will make a similar top (also of a straight silhouette), but from a transparent guipure or lace fabric. Like this:

Very beautiful tender a model of a SEMI-adjacent silhouette - a black guipure top. As you can see, he has no chest darts under his armpit. In our black top, they are not needed as the stretch guipure is used for sewing. But even if you bought guipure without elastic threads, you do not have to make a dart in a straight cut silhouette.

I'll tell you even more:

1. Many straight cut products even from non-stretch (or weak-stretch) fabric do not have these chest darts- why is it needed, if the thing is so spacious enough, and there is enough room for the chest. You can make this dart - but it will not affect your straight cut in any way.

• Also chest darts are often unnecessary on tight or semi-fitted and straight tops and dresses made of stretch fabric - after all, why dart if the fabric itself will stretch on the chest.

That is why for modeling such non-dart products, it will be much more convenient for us to use the SAME "DROUGH-FREE" BASIC PATTERN.

Where can I get it, you ask?

And I will answer you:

DRILL-FREE basic pattern - very easy to get if remove the chest dart from the usual basic base pattern... We will now do this with you with an illustrative example.

How to make a basic pattern without a brisket dart.

This is how our front pattern looks like with a dart on the chest (see the picture below). But today we are sewing, firstly, from stretch, and secondly, a semi-adjacent silhouette - to us chest dart, broken shoulder line, too curved armhole line - only get in the way- distract us from modeling. Now we will remove all these broken lines in a very simple way. The whole process is in the pictures below:

Well, now that we have a basic pattern without this extra chest dart, it will be very easy for us to model any shape of shoulder straps and necklines and armholes for our tops.

We will often use this kind of non-dart pattern when modeling products from stretch and not only.

Let's start by sewing a black guipure top:

We sew a black transparent top (with lining).

We need:

guipure fabric that stretches

and for the lining, we also need an opaque stretch fabric in a light beige shade, as close as possible to your skin tone.

WE MAKE THE PATTERN OF THE TOP TOP FROM GUIPURE.

We look closely at the top, analyze its lines.

Neck line. If on the base pattern the neckline always runs at the very base of the neck, then on this top we see that the lower edge of the neckline is 4-5 cm below the base of the neck (yellow dot).

Armhole line. If on the pattern of the base the upper point of the armhole coincides with the edge of the shoulder (shoulder joint), then on the topic from our photo we see that the shoulder joint is open, which means that the edge of the strap starts 3-4 cm further than the edge of the shoulder (green point on the pattern). The width of the strap is arbitrary (in the photo 4-5 cm).

Waist line - has a slight, calm bend - not as arched and fitted as in the basic pattern (we make a SEMI-fitting top). And then, this bend is not necessary if you have a slight difference in centimeters between your waist and the volume of your chest or hips - that is, just a tummy - you can just draw a straight side line, without any fit. Be guided by your figure.

And so we analyzed the photo - and all these observations were reflected in our pattern - those. drew the lines exactly where they should be on this top model.

Back pattern done with the same width of the neckline and with the same length of the shoulder seam (so that the edge of the front strap coincides with the edge of the back strap when sewing them).

You see how easy it is to model from a photograph.

WE MAKE A STRETCH BEIGE LINING PATTERN.

Now we need a beige underglade pattern. This lining will be without shoulder straps - that is, like a bustier - it will be held with an elastic band. The purpose of this lining is to protect delicate areas of the body from excessive exposure under the transparent fabric of the top. This lining can be sewn into the top itself, or worn separately as a stand-alone item.

The top line of the lining starts from the armpits (the bottom point of the armholes on the pattern) and rises slightly arcuate above the chest line - as in my picture. The bottom line can be at any level - either at the waist, or slightly higher.

We drew the lines, and now let's remember that this top-lining should be loose on the body - and for this its pattern needs to be slightly squeezed in width - when putting on the stretch will stretch and expand itself, tightening our body. You can reduce the pattern by eye - or you can calculate the toughness coefficient of your stretch fabric and reduce the pattern scientifically.

What is the coefficient of ductility of a stretch fabric, I described in detail, using examples, in a special article. And here I will just remind you.

What if 10 cm of calm fabric - when stretched, they give 14 cm (that is, the fabric in the stretch gives an additional 4 cm) - then the tensile coefficient of your fabric is 40% - which means that our stretch product (i.e. top) will stretch in width by 40% and this means that we need to make the pattern in width less by these 40% (or not to reduce the pattern by all 40%, but only by 30-20%, well ... so that the fabric does not compress the body too much).

For example - we bought a stretch fabric that stretches 30% - but we want it not to dig into us very much - and therefore we reduce the pattern by 20% (that is, 1/5 of its size). We measure the width of the pattern - we divide it by 5 - and the width of the pattern should decrease by the number obtained.

I honestly do not calculate strictly - I do it by eye. I'll take a look at the stretch: if it stretches easily, I'll chop off more from the pattern, if it doesn't stretch too much - less. And everything always turns out as it should.

This is how your lining pattern will look like in the end:

CUSTOM FABRIC DETAILS

Now we cut out our pattern, put it on the fabric. And here ... please pay attention to the fact that many guipure and lace fabrics are sold with a ready-made natural beautiful wavy edge made in the factory... And it is a sin not to take advantage of this - firstly, such an edge looks beautiful (see the photo of the topic below, it has just such an edge), and secondly, you will have less work, tk. no need to do the hemming-processing of the bottom of the product on a typewriter.

So that means, we put the pattern on the fabric and ... we understand that you can't draw with chalk on guipure, right? Therefore, we proceed as follows.

Or we take a zhmenka of pins and carefully pin the pattern onto the guipure with them. Or we fix the pattern on the fabric with heavy objects (for example, thick books), lay them out on the pattern here and there - so that it is pressed against the fabric and does not cut it. And we move one book closer to the edge, which we begin to cut - the book presses the edge of the paper pattern to the fabric and we can safely cut the fabric with scissors along this pressed edge of the pattern - BUT DO NOT FORGET IN THE RIGHT PLACES (in the area of ​​the shoulder and side seams) in 0.5 -1 cm.

I also cut out a detail of the stretch lining, pressing the pattern with thick books - AND IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO DO AN ADDITION ON THE SEAMS - for stretch it is not very important - it will stretch.

SEW TOP

So we have 4 pieces- front + back for the upper guipure top, and front + back for the lower beige lining.

Sew the front and back of the top top at the shoulder and side seams.

Sew the back and in front of the beige lining in the side seams and process its lower edge. And we sew an elastic band into the upper edge (I told about a whole bunch of ways to sew an elastic band in the article How to sew an elastic band in clothes)

Now we process the neck and armholes of the upper guipure top. First, we lay one or two fixing lines along the neck and armholes, stepping back 1-1.5 cm. Now we manually sew on this line a black ribbon, or a narrow ribbon. We sweep it by hand, put it under the machine's foot and attach it. Such processing of the neck and armholes looks very nice.

Top and bottom tops can be worn separately on top of each other... Or, if you wish, you can sew the lower lining top to the guipure top - the place of stitching is the upper part of the side seams - from the armpit and 5-7 cm below to sew both tops through and through or sew on by hand with blind stitches.

We continue to model tops - we have already sewed a classic top with a straight silhouette, and also sewed a top from an openwork guipure fabric with a stretch lining. Now we will continue to sew from stretch and make simple but cute tops with ties on a knot. These tops are:

They are sewn from stretch fabric, so our ties are easy to stretch and tied in soft, strong knots.

So let's get started ... let's start with the blue top.

MODELING A TOP PATTERN WITH TIES BOTTOM

This topic (like all other topics in the world) is created on the basis of your BASIC DRYLESS PATTERN - and we will get the top pattern by slightly "finishing" this basic pattern with the base. This is how it will look:

We take a pattern and make a copy of it. And on this copy we carry out the following manipulations - change the neckline and the armhole line.

To draw all the lines correctly, we need to analyze the photo of the top.

Judging by the photo, line of our neckline in a blue top it runs somewhere 2-3 cm below the base of the neck - which means that on the base pattern we lower our neckline by the same distance (yellow dot). And from the sides, the neckline does not reach the base of the neck by 1 cm. Therefore, on the base pattern, we retreat 1 cm to the side from the edge of the neckline along the shoulder line (pink dot). If a neckline of a different shape suits your oval of the face, you can draw a neckline line of a different depth and width.

Now armholes- judging by the photo of the blue topic, the armhole line is almost classic - that is, slightly higher along the shoulder line than on the base pattern. Optionally, you can also slightly lower the lower edge of the armhole (axillary point) - well, so that it is away from the armpit. But not so low that your bra looks out - it's not aesthetically pleasing after all.

Now smoothing side lines fit (so that the topic does not fit around the waist, but is slightly loose). Even if you look more closely at the photo, it becomes clear that the part of the front on the topic downward is specially expanded, so that when the knot is tied, a sort of assembly of folds is obtained that goes from all sides to the place of the knot. This means that on our pattern, we expand the side lines to the sides.

And now we determine where we will have nodule(in the center or slightly on the side) - mark this place with a dot - and we begin to draw our straps down (those very long straps that we will tie into a knot). How to decide how long the straps should be? I'll tell you that approximately 4 cm of the strap length is consumed for approximately a double knot. That there is 4 cm will go into the knot, plus a few centimeters for the hanging "ears" - the ends of the straps.

The back of the topic is modeled with the same width of the neckline and the width of the shoulder line - as the part of the back - so that they then in front and back coincide with each other when sewing.

Now - now we can say that our pattern is ready.

We sew a top with a knot tied at the bottom.

1) We cut out our pattern, put it on the fabric - we outline it with chalk (do not forget to LEAVE ALLOWS ON THE SHOULDER AND SIDE SEAMS). How to cut from stretch fabric or slippery fabric, I told in this series of articles

2) Sew the back part with the front part in the side and shoulder seams.

3) We process the bottom of the product: we either overlock it, or bend and sew the edge - the processing goes along the entire lower edge and along the edges of both straps.

4) We process the neckline and armholes ( how to do it on stretch, I told here)

TOP WITH TIES ON THE BREAST.

We also model this topic on the basis of our BASIC PATTERN.

We take a copy of our base pattern, namely of the BASIC PATTERN where the breast dart was removed... You will remember that the basic pattern at its initial stage is drawn in three versions (for a tight-fitting silhouette, for a semi-fitted silhouette, for a loose silhouette). If we sew from stretch fabric, we need a pattern of an adjacent silhouette.... Plus, you need to remove the chest dart from it (that is, turn the usual basic pattern of an adherent silhouette into a BASIC PATTERN FOR STRETCHING FABRICS.

So let's take this pattern-base for stretch , and now we will turn it into a pattern for our topic with strings.

WE MODEL A TOP PATTERN ON TIES.

For correct modeling, you need to carefully look at the photo of this topic:

we see that the neckline of the top begins at the lateral base of the neck- that is, it has the same width as the neckline on the base pattern, which means that the edge of the neckline of the base pattern coincides with the same edge as that of our top (yellow dot). We see in the photo that the decollete area is very narrow - which means that on the basis of the pattern, it is necessary to draw a sharply tapering decollete.

Now you need to decide where you want the bottom edge of the topic to go (judging by the photo - the bottom edge of the top is 7-10 cm higher than the waist line). We measure the desired distance on our pattern from the waist line upwards - we mark with a dot and draw a horizontal line.

Now we need to draw the strap itself, which will be tied. The length of the strap should be enough for the knot itself and for the protruding ponytails.

To find out how many centimeters to draw a strap, you can conduct a small experiment - take a strip of the same or another (similar in thickness) fabric, tie it into a knot, stepping back from the edge of the knot to the distance we need, make marks with chalk. Then untie the knot - and measure the distance between the marks. This will be the length of the knot with two straps. Since we draw one strap on the pattern, we divide this value by two.

Or you may not check, but take Olga Klishevskaya's word for it. I'll tell you that for a regular stretch fabric, a double knot steals about 4 cm of its length from the strap. So the strap should be done with the calculation of 4 cm per knot, plus a few centimeters for the hanging ends.

Having calculated the length of the strap in this way, you can start drawing it. We draw like in the picture - the tie strap looks like a long triangular continuation to the side of our shelf.

So the front pattern is ready.

The pattern of the back is drawn even easier - the lines of the armholes and the shoulder coincide with those drawn on the base pattern-base. The neckline is the same depth as on the base pattern. And the line of the lower edge of the topic from the back (like that of the front part) runs 7-10 cm higher than the waist line.

We make the pattern of the classic sleeve according to my lesson “Clothes sleeve - we do it ourselves. Part 1". And since we need a slip-on sleeve, we squeeze it a little in width.

WE SEW A TOPIK WITH TIES ON THE BREAST

1.) When all three patterns are ready (front, back and sleeves), put them on the fabric, circle them (you don't need to leave seam allowances for stretch), and cut them out. We get one back, two shelves and two sleeves.

2.) Now we sew in front and two shelves of the back in the SHOULDER SEAMS (we do not make the side seams yet, so it will be more convenient for us to sew the sleeve).

3.) Sew the sleeve to the armhole (more on this in the same article about the sleeve).

4.) Sew the side seams of the topic and the side seam of the sleeve (the vertical seam that goes along the arm)

5.) We process the bottom of the topic and the edges of the shelves that smoothly merge into the neckline (bend the edge and attach it or overlock it), We also process the lower edges of the sleeve.

That's all, our top with strings on the chest is sewn. With which I congratulate you.

They can be sewn from plain or patterned fabric. In these photos, the models are made of lightly stretching dense fabric-stretch. But you can make the same models from any other fabric (even non-stretch). So, let's start with the blue top, which is assembled on the drawstring.

BLUE PADDED SHOULDER TOP

We will make the pattern of the top based on our basic pattern. Therefore, in order not to spoil our basic pattern, we make a copy of it and it is it (the copy) that we will modify, that is, change.

Let's take a closer look at the photo. What lines of armholes and necks do we see?

We see that the neckline has a wedge-shaped (i.e. pointed downwards) shape. And the depth of the neckline by 3-4 cm does not reach the chest line (the very line along which we measure the chest girth, and which is drawn and signed as a "chest line" on our pattern).

We see that the armholes have a classic height (i.e. the height of the armholes coincides with the height of the armholes on the pattern). This is very clearly seen in the photo - that the armhole ends at the level of the chest line - it is at the level of this chest line that the classic armhole ends on a base pattern) - then we don’t need to change the height of the armhole... But we will change its configuration a little ... because we need to change the shoulder line ...

Now let's take a closer look at the shoulder. We see that in the assembled form (i.e. in the form of assemblies) the shoulder width on our product coincides with the shoulder width measurement (the same measurement that is measured from the base of the neck to the humerus, i.e. the one that is drawn on our pattern). But it is gathered together. In the straightened form, the width of the shoulder on the product should clearly be greater - judging by the density and depth of the folds, this width is greater by 1.5. It means that on the pattern, we should draw the shoulder line half its length more.

So we do - we reflect all our observations on a pattern-base - we draw a line of a wedge-shaped neckline not reaching 3-4 cm to the chest line. The height of the armhole is not changeable. But we lengthen the shoulder line by half.

The silhouette of the topic is semi-fitted from the sides... This means that we can leave the bending of the side lines as they are on the base pattern. But we leave the waist darts (those that go in the center) without attention - they will not close as in a strictly fitted silhouette, but will give additional centimeters for freedom of fitting.

Back pattern It looks the same as a front pattern, with the only difference that its neck is not so deep.

WE SEW A BLUE TOP WITH ASSEMBLY ON THE SHOULDERS.

1.) We sew the front part and the back part together in the shoulder seams, or first we sew the drawstrings (see item 2), and then we sew the shoulder seams - it doesn't matter where to start.

2.) And immediately we make two drawstrings in the shoulders... To do this, cut out two strips from the remaining scraps of fabric. Their length should be 2 cm shorter than the length of the shoulder line on our product. Their width should be sufficient so that a twine is hidden under them, which we will stretch into our wings. Twine can be made from the same scraps of fabric ( how to make a string, I have already told here). We sew the cut stripes of the drawstring on one and the other side of the shoulder seam, we sew them along the very edge of the strips. Thus, under the stripes in the center, we have a "tunnel-corridor" - we will pull in a string or ribbon there.

3.) Now that the drawstrings are sewn on. You can neatly finish the edges of the armholes. Fold over and sew on the edge. But bend half a centimeter - so as not to close (!!!) the inlets of our wings. In the same way, we carefully process the neckline with an oblique inlay: we sew a seam, and in the area of ​​the shoulders we do not close the entrance holes of our drawstrings with a seam. Cut the oblique inlay for processing the neck from the same fabric.

4.) Now it remains to connect the side seams, process the bottom of the product and into our "corridors-drawers" pull in the string so that both ends hang down from the outside of the shoulder- we hold by these tails and tighten the shoulder, forming an assembly of the length we need - and we tie the twine tails to fix our assembly.

That's it, our blue crop top is ready. Now let's start sewing a salmon top with assembly and a decorative patch on the shoulder.

TOP WITH ASSEMBLY AND PADDLE ON THE SHOULDER.

The pattern of this topic is done - food is easier than the first one. Let's take a look at him

- look, the shape and size of the neckline is exactly the same as that of the previous blueoco top. Length too. The width and degree of fit are the same. So on the pattern we draw exactly the same neckline and side bends, and we do the bottom edge at the same level. And all we need to do is model the shoulders. This is done like this: first we just draw the silhouette of the shoulder straps. Regular width.

Then we determine at what level we will have this very line of tucks at the seam. Judging by the photo, this line starts 5-7 cm below the shoulder line.

We measure this level on the straps of our pattern and cut the front pattern in this place. Do not change the upper part (the cut off top of the shoulder strap). But we expand the lower part of this very shoulder strap by 4-5 centimeters.

That's all the front pattern is ready.

The crotch of the back has the same width (not the shape, but the width) of the neckline and the same length of the shoulder seams.

We cut the details on the fabric. The tops of the shoulder are left and right. Front detail with extended shoulder straps. And the detail of the back (it has not changed in any way),

And now we sew. First, we take the front part and sew with large stitches (manually or on a typewriter) the upper extended edges of the straps. They stitched it, and the edges of the thread in the line were pulled - the line shrank and the fabric gathered in an assembly. We collect the assembly until then. Until it is the same length as the top of the shoulder, the edges should match in length when sewing.

Now we sew the tops of the hangers with the front straps - and now we have it in our hands one-piece stitched front with tucks on the shoulders.

All that remains is to connect the front and back detail together - in the side and shoulder seams - and process the neckline and armholes with a bias tape.

It's time to talk about form-fitting stretch tops. These tops are very easy to sew if you follow simple rules ... but I'll tell you about this a little below.

Let's take a look at these topics first. Here they are:

All of them have one thing in common. They are sewn from a stretch fabric, stretch for b a basic pattern of a tight-fitting silhouette and with a breast dart removed from it... That is, to model all tight-fitting tops from stretch we need Dot-free Basic Running Pattern... In the third article of this series about topics, we just learned how to make from a Normal Pattern-base Ditch-free base pattern

Yes, yes, to create tight-fitting tops from stretch, we do not need a base pattern with a brisket dart. Vet stretch stretches well and will lie on the chest as needed.

here I showed how we remove the dart from the base pattern:

It's very cool ... to sew from stretch. No darts for you. No fit. The product will sit on you, exactly repeating all the curves of your body.

Sewing from stretch or knitwear is a sheer pleasure. Especially if you have already read my articles in the cycle “ How to sew from jersey"- there I told what needles, threads, what machine stitches it is better to sew, how to process the edges of the product without an overlock, how to take into account the degree of stretch of the fabric when calculating the pattern.

Today all this knowledge will be useful to us (and we will repeat it here and consolidate it in practice).

So let's get started.

Create a stretch top pattern based on our base pattern.

Here is the correct sequence of our actions.

Step 1. Take the UNDERWAY pattern-base of the adjacent silhouette and make a copy from it.

Step 2. Find out the degree of ductility of our stretch knitwear. (we find the coefficient of extensibility of the fabric).

Step 3. Modify the pattern taking into account this tensile coefficient.

Step 4. On this pattern adapted for our stretch, draw the lines of the neckline and armholes for the arms.

Now let's go over this point in detail:

We make a copy from a non-darting pattern-base. Now we need to shrink it in width, according to how stringy we bought the stretch.

To do this, we take a centimeter ruler, our fabric and find out the degree of its extensibility. This is how we do it.

On the fabric in its calm (unstretched) state, we measure a segment 10 cm long (mark the boundaries of this segment with a small one). It is important (!!!) we measure the segment not at the edge of the fabric, but lower by 10-15 cm.

With our hands we stretch this marked segment, and in this stretched state we apply it to the ruler. By how many centimeters our stretched 10-centimeter segment has increased - this is also the percentage of stretchability of our stretch fabric.

If 10 cm is stretched to 13 cm, then this additional 3 cm means a stretch factor of 30%. If 10 cm is stretched up to 16 cm, then these additional 6 cm means a stretch factor of 60%.

Each stretch has a different degree of ductility... The more the fabric stretches, the narrower our pattern should be (after all, when we put the topic on the body, it will stretch and expand itself).

And now, taking into account this degree of ductility of our fabric, we must modify our pattern. Therefore, we boldly narrow down our pattern - according to the percentage of extensibility.

For example, the stretch percentage is 30%. This means that our pattern should shrink in the chest and waist by 30%. What width should it eventually become? Let's say the width of the shelf pattern is 18 cm. So 18 cm: 100 x 70 = 12.8 cm = round up to 13 cm. That is, the width of our shelf from 18 should shrink to 13. So from the sides of the shelf pattern, you need to remove 5 cm - that is move the side line to the center by 2.5 cm and move the center line of the shelf by another 2.5 cm.

If someone has a question - “Where did the number 70 come from if we were talking about 30% here?”, I will explain:

we multiplied by 70 - because when we subtract something by 30% - this subtracted remainder will be 70% of the initial integer. It's as if your child has eaten 30% of the cake and your guests only have 70% of the cake left. We need the neck to decrease by 30%, which means we need to find out what the width of the neck will be if it decreases to 70%, so we divide by 100 and multiply at 70- so we find out the width of our "half-eaten" neck.

Here in the picture we can see how this shrinking of the pattern looks from both sides:

and now we carefully look at the picture and notice that the pattern is not only shrunk on both sides, but also lengthened. We also see that in the picture I almost did not squeeze the pattern in the thigh area. Why? Read on ...

Important point number 1: (you can reduce by eye)

It is not necessary to reduce the pattern STRICTLY BY THIS PERCENTAGE - you can reduce not by 30%, but by 20%, or even by 10% - because the more you reduce the pattern, the tighter the garment will grip your body. And why do we need the topic to choke us. Of course, if you are sewing shaping underwear for body shaping, then you need to reduce the maximum percentage of the maximum stretch of the fabric. But if you are sewing an ordinary topic, then a gentle stretch around your body is enough for us. I generally reduce the pattern by eye.

Important point number 2 (leave freedom below the waist)

The pattern does not need to be reduced especially in the hip area. Let me explain why - if your topic ends below the waist - that is, on the hips - then in this hip area it should not be tight. Otherwise, with any of your movements (walking or just fidgeting on a chair), the topic will inexorably creep up (according to the laws of physics) - I have one such top creeping up and the same stretch dress - after the fifth step it rises to an unacceptable height and it falls every fold tight. This happened because the factory did not make an extension in the hip area, and they chose a very elastic stretch fabric for sewing - and that was the dress not for wearing, but for photographing (you can only stand and smile in it).

Important point # 3 (remember the decreasing length)

The law of stretching of any matter says - if something is stretched in width, it will shrink in length.

For example, take a regular linen elastic - its width is 1 cm in a calm form - but if you stretch it, then its width will become 5 mm. Likewise, with the topic - in a calm, unstretched form, its length can reach you to mid-thigh, but if you wear it, you will replace that it has become much shorter.

When we draw a pattern we must make it a little longer than we need- when we sew and put on the top, it will stretch in width and, accordingly, shorten in length.

All these moments we must take into account when drawing our stretch topic. And then you will not be disappointed after the first fitting. And you can sew yourself different, different tops from different fabrics.

But every time when sewing, look at the stretch and estimate with a ruler (or by eye) the degree of its ductility and squeeze the pattern accordingly this degree of ductility.

Remember ONE AND THE SAME PATTERN of a stretch-top when sewing from different fabrics-stretch will give different tops(one can hang loosely on you, while the other digs into your fat) - and all because for one you choose a fabric with a high viscosity, and for the other a low-stretch fabric. Sew, exercise, fill your hand.

So, when we have a base pattern specially squeezed for our stretch, we can calmly model tops with any neck shape, width of shoulder straps and depth of armholes.

Galina THANKS! As much as I sew, I want to create a basic pattern, now, thanks to your website, it will definitely be! Thanks!

It's easy if you know a few "tricks"
1.The top of the top has a silicone band on the inside.

2.the jersey in the chest area is quite tight

3. The pattern for the back is shorter than the pattern for the shelf.

Now in more detail on each of the points + a piece for the size 46-48.

Here: building a top for size OG = 96-98, From = 78, OB = 98-100 cm

actwin, 0,0,1360,742; Untitled - Rhinoceros (Corporate) - Rhino4 05/09/2015, 20:47:41

• Choice of jersey.
  It should not be too stretchable and keep its shape well. For example, knitwear - "oil" is not the best option for a top. I had good quality cotton jersey, quite tight, medium stretch.
• Decal the fabric before cutting! Wash as usual so that there are no surprises after - knitwear is tricky.
• Calculate the “negative gain” in the chest area.
  To do this, you need to stretch a piece of cloth across and determine a comfortable degree of tension to your measurement of exhaust gas 1. Measure over the chest - the measuring tape runs under the armpits. We need to figure out how much to "pull" the top border of the top.
  The fact is that our top will be light, without supporting bones. He has to hold on only due to the tension on the chest.
  In the area of ​​the waist and hips, it is enough to reduce your measurements by 2-3 cm
• We cut out the back and the shelf.
  We will have two areas of the shelf fit.
  Firstly, in the chest area 2-3 cm. This is how we distribute the lateral dart to the chest volume.
  secondly, in the waist area 1-2 cm. This way we shorten the back to get rid of folds in the lower back. It is simple and pleasant to make the fit of the knitted fabric. We use the properties of extensibility: you first need to chop off the slices, evenly distributing the fit. Then sew the side cuts with any knitted stitch (I have a zigzag with a small amplitude of 1.3 mm and a step of 2 mm). Stretch the fabric by hand when sewing. All processes are in the photo. I will make a reservation right away: I am not a fan of the covering technique. I do not plan to buy an expensive coverstitch machine for my small workshop. And in general, I prefer methods of processing knitwear, different from industrial ones. Overlock, simple and stepped zigzag, blind hand stitches are enough. this is NOT wrong! It is soulful and couture). If you prefer special equipment, please. All markers are different in taste and color.
  I love knitwear, I sew it a lot and often. I advise beginners not to be afraid of technology). Knitwear certainly has sewing characteristics. But this is such a rewarding material that, having mastered the simple rules, you will love it dearly, as I did). By the way, I plan to make a series of articles on knitwear.
• Overlock side cuts. Of course, you can do only with an overlock 4-thread stitch, but stretching the fabric under the overlock knife while keeping an eye on the direction of the stitch is quite problematic. "Inaccurate somehow" (c).
• We process the lower and upper cuts with an overlock stitch.
• We just bend the bottom. As you like - any knitted stitching or by hand. In the photo: the more experience I gain, the more often I use basting stitches. I don’t regret the time for manual work - it pays off in the end result.
• to the upper cut, first we grind the silicone tape - with elastic stitching, slightly pulling the tape. Then we bend the cut. All processes are in the photo.
• The top is ready.