A simple way to create a dress pattern. Constructing a base pattern using a measuring stick. Ready-made dress patterns

If you decide to master the art of sewing clothes yourself, we recommend starting with a dress. Of course, aprons and pillowcases are necessary things, but, you must admit, they are a little boring. And having sewed a dress, you can immediately surprise your friends and colleagues with your skill and show off your new thing. To sew, first of all, you need to learn how to build a base. And then you can start modeling the dress based on the basic pattern. There are several methods for creating patterns: original, classic, using computer programs and manually on a sheet of paper. Let's try to understand the features of some of them.

Let's start creating a pattern by taking the necessary measurements. The numbers given in our master class are suitable for size 48:

• chest circumference (= OG) - 96 cm;
• circumference above the chest (= OnG) - 88 cm;
• waist circumference (= FROM) - 76 cm;
• hip circumference (= OB) - 20 cm;
• front length to waist (= DPT) - 47 cm;
• back length to waist (= DST) - 43 cm;
• shoulder length (= DP) - 12 cm;
• neck circumference (= OS) - 38 cm;
• distance between the highest points of the chest (chest center) (RCG) - 22 cm;
• armhole depth (= ГПр) - 20.5 cm;
• product length (= DI) - 1 m.

Important Note

The given method for constructing a pattern for the base of a dress is used for chest circumferences of 80 cm or more. For children and teenage girls, the basis of the pattern is constructed somewhat differently.

Loose Fit Increases

Before construction, we need to decide what kind of dress we are going to sew - tight-fitting, semi-tight-fitting or loose. Depending on the silhouette, we select the amount of allowance for a loose fit. Typical increment figures - see table below.

In our master class we will create a pattern-the basis of an adjacent silhouette. The amount of increase for a loose fit around the semicircle of the chest will be 1.5 cm.

Design parameters

To construct the drawing, let's calculate:

• back width (= WB): calculated using the formula 1⁄8 OG + 5.5 cm = 17.7 cm;
• armhole width (= ШПр): calculated using the formula 1⁄8 OG - 1.5 cm = 10.5 cm;
• chest width (= SH): calculated using the formula 1⁄4 OG - 4 cm = 20 cm;
• armhole depth (= GPr): the parameter is determined by measurement, checked by calculation using the formula 0.1 OG + 10.5 cm = 20.5 cm. If the calculated value differs from the measured one, the average value is used for construction.

Step-by-step construction of a pattern

In the upper left corner of the sheet, stepping back 10-15 cm, mark point (∙) A. From it, draw a straight line 1 m long (= DI) down vertically, mark (∙) D.

To the right of (∙) A we draw a horizontal line. Based on it, we set aside a value equal to 1⁄2 OG + 1.5 cm (= increase for loose fit), set (∙) B.

We complete the basic rectangle, mark (∙) C.

Armhole line

From (∙) A we set aside GPr + 0.5 cm in a straight line downward (= increase for loose fit, see table above). We put (∙) G. We draw a horizontal line from it, put (∙) G1.

Along the armhole line from (∙) G, measure ШС plus 0 cm (= increase for loose fit), ШПр plus 0.5 cm (= increase for loose fit), SH plus 1 cm. The total amount of increases is 0 + 0.5 + 1 = 1.5 cm. It is equal to the increase laid down above. From the marked points we draw perpendiculars to the segment AB.

Waistline

From (∙) A we lay down the DST, put (∙) T. We draw a perpendicular to the segment BC, mark at the intersection (∙) T1.

Hip line

Draw a horizontal line parallel to the waist line at a distance of 20 cm (= hip height). We mark (∙) L and (∙) L1.

Side line

From the center of the armhole width segment, draw a perpendicular downward to the DC segment. We divide the segments of the auxiliary lines for constructing the armhole into 4 equal sections. In the drawing, the division points are shown with red crosses.

Back neck rollout

From (∙) A we put 1⁄6 OS + 0.5 cm = 6.8 cm to the right side. We put 2 cm up (the value is constant for all sizes). We are building a pattern roll-out line.

Back shoulder

From the top (∙) line for constructing the armhole, we put 1.5 cm down. We draw a straight line connecting (∙)2 (rollout of the back neckline) and (∙) 1.5 (slope of the shoulder line). Along the drawn line we lay off the DP + 1 cm = 12 cm + 1 cm = 13 cm. When further sewing the shoulder seam, we lower the DP of the back a little.

Back opening

We draw a bisector of the lower left corner of the armhole, measure 2-2.5 cm along it. We draw the pattern line of the armhole through (∙) 13, (∙) dividing the height of the armhole, (∙) 2 to the side line.

Lifting the shelf

We put the DPT from (∙) T1 up, put (∙) W. From it we draw a horizontal line to the left until it intersects with the extended right line of the armhole width.

Front neck rollout

From (∙) Ш we put 1⁄6 OS + 0.5 cm = 6.8 cm to the left side. We put 1⁄6 OS + 1.5 cm = 7.8 cm down. We build a pattern roll-out line.

Front shoulder line to chest dart

From (∙) 6.8 (on the rollout) we put 4 cm to the left side, go down 1 cm (the value is constant for all sizes). Draw a slanted line.

From (∙) 1 we draw down the segment 1G2. With this construction, the value of the segment G1G2 should be equal to 1⁄2 of the size of the RCG measure, that is, 11 cm. As a result, we drew the right border of the chest dart.

Bust dart

From the center of the right border of the chest dart, we put 4 cm horizontally to the left (= POG - POnG = 48 cm - 44 cm = 4 cm). Through (∙) 4 we build the left border of the chest dart. It should be equal in length to the right one.

Front shoulder line

We draw an auxiliary line with a dotted line from the top of the left border of the chest dart to the upper (∙) division of the left armhole line.

Along the dotted line we set aside 8 cm (= shoulder length: shoulder length to the right border of the dart = 12 cm - 4 cm). We go down the perpendicular by 2 cm (a constant number for all sizes). Draw the shoulder line of the shelf.

From the lower (∙) shoulder, draw an auxiliary line with a dotted line to the lower (∙) division of the armhole line. We divide this segment in half.

Shelf opening

We build a bisector of the lower right corner of the armhole, measure 2 cm along it.

From the central (∙) dotted segment we put 1 cm perpendicular to the right. We draw the pattern line of the armhole through (∙) 2 (on the shoulder), (∙) 1, (∙) 2 (on the bisector) and to the side line.

How to calculate darts

Let's calculate the difference 1⁄2 OG - 1⁄2 FROM = 48 - 38 cm = 10 cm. This value must be removed along the waistline into darts. We will put a third in the side darts, the rest in the backs and front, distributing 3 cm on the front part, and 4 cm on the back.

The size of the side darts is 10 cm: 3 = 3.3 cm. After rounding, we accept the value of 1.5 cm for the front and back.

Important Note

We calculate the missing value for the hips as (OB - OT): 4 = (102 - 96) : 4 = 1.5 cm. We measure this distance on both sides of the common side line, draw the side lines of the back and front.

Dart at the back waistline

We find the center of the segment along the waist line, draw a vertical line up to the armhole line and down to the hip line. The upper point of the dart should not reach the armhole line by 3-4 cm, the lower point should be 2 cm above the hip line. The width of the dart is 4 cm.

Dart at front waistline

Through the top of the chest dart we draw a perpendicular to the waist line. From (∙) G2 we put 5-6 cm down, draw a dart 3 cm wide (see drawing above).

For curved figures with a narrow waist, it makes sense to remove excess fabric into the central seam of the back and another dart.

In the previous drawing, these constructions are shown with blue lines. To build an additional dart, measure 3 cm from the lower right corner of the armhole to the right side and draw a dotted perpendicular down to the hip line. The upper point of the dart should not reach the armhole line by 7-8 cm, the lower point should be 1.5 cm above the hip line. The width of the dart is 2 cm.

Along the central seam of the back, we remove 1.0-1.5 cm for the dart, and draw a pattern line for the middle seam.

We retake the finished patterns.

Method for constructing a basic pattern for a women's dress according to Muller

The cutting system, created more than 125 years ago by the German tailor Michael Müller, takes into account the individual characteristics of a person’s figure and allows for precise construction of clothing patterns. The technique is not the simplest, but very accurate. According to Muller's method, the body is divided into segments, the features of the figure are taken into account in the proportional calculation of deviations from the standard.

Let's take a look at how to make a basic straight dress pattern as an example.

When constructing, we will take into account the allowances (= P) for a loose fit for the sizes:

• rear armhole height – 2-3 cm;
• back width – 1.5-2.0 cm;
• Armhole width – 2.5-3.5 cm;
• chest width – 1.5-2.0 cm.

To construct the basis of a woman’s dress, we need to take measurements (we provide our data, you can construct according to your own measurements):

• chest circumference (= OG) – 85 cm;
• waist circumference (= OT) – 62 cm;
• hip circumference (= OB) – 95 cm;
• back length to waist (= DTS) – 44 cm;
• product length (= DI) – 100 cm;
• chest height 1 (= VG 1) – 34 cm;
• length to waist in front 1 (= accident 1) – 56 cm.

Let's perform preliminary calculations for models with exhaust gas larger than 80 cm:

• rear armhole height (= VPr Z)** = OG: 10 + 10.5 cm = 19 cm; VPr Z + P = 19 cm + 2(3) cm = 19 cm + 2 cm = 21 cm;
• hip height (= VB) = VPr Z + DST = 19 cm + 44 cm = 63 cm;
• rear neck width (= Wsh W) = OG: 20 + 2 cm = 85: 20 + 2 cm = 6.3 cm;
• chest height 2 (= VG 2) = VG 1 – Shsh 3 = 34 cm – 6.3 cm = 27.7 cm;
• front length to waist 2 (= accident 2) = accident 1 – Shsh 3 = 56 cm – 6.3 cm = 49.7 cm;
• back width (= ШС)** = OG: 8 + 5.5 cm = 85: 8 + 5.5 cm = 16, 125 cm; Shs + P = 16.125 cm + 1.5(2.0) cm = 18 cm;
• armhole width (= ШПр)** = OG: 8 – 1.5 cm = 85:8 – 1.5 cm = 9.125 cm; ShPr + P = 9.125 cm + 2.5(3.5) cm = 12 cm;
• chest width (= WH)** = OG: 4 – 4 cm = 85: 4 – 4 cm = 17.25 cm; WH + P = 17.25 cm + 1.5(2.0) cm = 19 cm.

When making a drawing, we take the values ​​indicated by ** with allowances for loose fit (P).

Important Note

For a correctly constructed drawing, the sum ((VPr 3 + P) + (ShS + P) + (ShPr + P) + (SHG + P)) should be equal to (OG: 2 + P) = (OG: 2 + 5.0( 7.5) cm).

We will need a sheet of tracing paper with a width of at least (OG: 2 + 0.3) m and a length of at least (DI + 15 cm).

From the upper right corner we retreat down 10 cm, then to the left 5 cm, mark the point (∙) O. Draw a straight line down. Along it we put OG = VPr Z + P = 21 cm; OT = DTS = 44 cm; OB = WB = 63 cm; OH = DI = 1000 cm.

Through the data (∙) we draw horizontal straight lines: through (∙) O – top line, through (∙) G – chest line, through (∙) T – waist line, through (∙) B – hip line, through (∙) H - bottom line.

From (∙) B to the left we put 2 cm, put (∙) B1. From (∙) O through (∙) B1 we draw a straight line until it intersects with the bottom line. We denote (∙) the intersection of this line with horizontal lines, as shown in the drawing. We created the middle line of the back.

To the left of (∙) G1 we put G1G2 = ShS + P = 18 cm. Next, we sequentially measure G2G3 = 2/3 (ShPr + P) = 8 cm; G3G4 = 10 cm + 13 cm; Г4Г5 = 1/3 (ШПр + П) = 4 cm; G5G6 = WG + P = 19 cm.

We control G6G4 + G3G1 = (OG: 2 + P) = 49 cm.

We draw vertical lines through the marked (∙) - see drawing. The line passing through (∙) G6 will be the center line of the front.

At the intersection of the vertical through (∙) G2 and the horizontal through (∙) O, we mark (∙) O1.

From (∙) O to the left side we put OO2 = Shsh 3 = 6.3 cm. In the case of a large OG, the value OO2 = Shsh 3 - 0.5 cm. From (∙) O2 we rise up 2 cm, this will be (∙) O3. Draws a pattern rollout line.

From (∙) O1 we measure down O1O4 = 1.0(1.5) cm. From (∙) O3 through M O4 we draw a straight line. Along it to the left we measure O4O5 = 1.5(2.0) cm (for small sizes), 1.0(1.5) cm (for medium sizes), 0(1) cm (for large sizes).

In the middle of the segment G2O4 we put (∙) P1. We draw a horizontal line through it, put P1P1’ = 1 cm to the left. In the center of the segment P1G2 we put (∙) P2. We draw a horizontal line through it. At its intersection with the vertical from (∙) G5 we mark (∙) P4. To the left of (∙) P2 we put P2P3 = 1.3(1.5) cm (directly proportional to the size). From (∙) O5 through P1’P3 to (∙) G3 we draw a pattern line for the armhole so that its beginning is perpendicular to the shoulder line.

Place (∙) T1 and (∙) T2 on the waist line. Along the chest line to the right from (∙) G6 we measure G6G7 = OG: 10 + 0.5 cm = 9 cm. We draw a vertical line, at its intersection with the waist line we put (∙) T4. From it up we measure T4O7 = DTP 2 = 49.7 cm. From (∙) O7 we go down to O7G8 = VG 2 = 27.7 cm.

From (∙) G5 we rise in a straight line to G5O6 = G2O4 – (1.0...1.5 cm). As the shoulder tilt increases, we increase the subtracted value.

From (∙)G8 and (∙)G5 through M O7 and M O6 we make radius notches. The values ​​of the radii of G8O7 and G5O6.

From (∙) O6 along the arc line we measure O6O8 = Og: 20 – (0.5…1.0) = 3.25 cm. From (∙) O8 we draw an arc with a radius (O3O5 – 1 cm) = 14 cm. Reducing the shoulder We’ll make 1cm lines for seating. At the intersection of the arcs we place (∙) O9.

We draw a straight line from (∙) O8 to (∙) P4. In the center of the segment we put (∙) P5. From it to the left along the perpendicular we put 1 cm, mark (∙) P6. From (∙) O8 to (∙) G4 through (∙) P6 and (∙) P4 we draw a pattern line. In this case, at first it should be perpendicular to the shoulder line.

From (∙) O7 we draw a perpendicular to the center line of the shelf, place (∙) O10. From it to the right we measure 6.3 cm (= O10O11 = ShSh z). For large values ​​of GO, the width of the rollout is О10О11 = ШШ З – 0.5 cm. The depth of the rollout is 7.5 cm (= О10О12 = ШШ З + 1…2 cm). Draw the segment O10G5. Along it we lay O10O13 = ШШ З + 0.5…0.8 cm. We connect (∙) O12, (∙) O13, (∙) O11 with a pattern line.

From (∙) O9 we construct the segment O9O14 = O11O7 = 3 cm. By connecting (∙) O14 and (∙) G8, we obtain the right border of the dart. From (∙) G8 up we measure G8O15 = G8O14. Draw the segment O11O15.

To build a dart on the back from (∙) O3 along the shoulder line to the left, set aside O3O16 = 3...5 cm. Lower the perpendicular to the line of the shoulder blades, put (∙) L. If you are building the base of the dress for a figure with convex shoulder blades and a pronounced stoop, then according The drawn line needs to be cut. The pattern is moved apart and a dart is formed. In our case, we will not do this, since there is no need.

Let's mark the control points for sewing in the sleeves. On the back Ks = P3. On the front, from (∙) G5 up, measure G5 = 1⁄4 (Spr + P) = 2 cm.

To construct the side lines, we lay down along the waist line of the back and front, respectively, T2T5 = 1...2 cm and T3T6 = 0.5...1 cm. We draw the side lines. At their intersection with the line of the hips we mark (∙) B2 and (∙) B3. The intersection of the line of the hips with the middle line of the front is marked (∙) B4.

We control that (B4B3 + B2B1) is larger (1/2 OB + 3 cm). If this is not the case, we increase the expansion of the parts along the side lines.

From (∙) H1 we draw a straight line perpendicular to the midline of the back. Its intersection with the lateral line is designated (∙) H2. From it we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the front side line, put (∙) H3. Draw a smooth line for the bottom of the dress.

Finally, we need to take into account the offset of the shoulder line to get the perfect pattern. For the front we lower the shoulder line by 1 cm, for the back we raise it by the same amount.

The construction of the pattern for the base of the dress according to the Muller system is completed.

Cut according to the 10-measurement system

The patterns, made according to the method compiled by Irina Paukshte, turn out to be very accurate, the resulting products fit perfectly on the figure.

The Paukšte cutting system has been very popular among beginners and professional cutters for many years.

This simple method of creating a pattern has the following features:

• Just ten measures is enough. In this case, the accuracy of measurements is of particular importance. Instructions on how to correctly take basic measurements can be seen in the video with Irina Paukshte;

• designing the main pattern does not require complex calculations, it can be done quite quickly;
• The Paukšte cutting system is an ideal choice for creating a dress pattern with a sleeve, since the articulation of the armhole is very precise. In this case, the sleeve pattern is drawn directly in the armhole;
• the chest dart is calculated using the residual method, that is, drawing the remaining parts automatically leads to the desired width of the dart;
• ease of modeling - Paukšte patterns can be easily changed for a different sleeve shape or silhouette of a woman’s dress;
• the technique takes into account the optimal increase for a loose fit - for elastic fabrics and when sewing corsets, as well as for sizes 44 and smaller, the increase is 2 cm. For all other cases it should be at least 3 cm.

On the Internet you can find a series of lessons by Irina Paukshte on building a basic mesh, patterns for the back and front, and calculations for the armhole.

Using a computer program to accurately create a basic pattern

Let's understand the basic terms used in the program.

The main design lines of the dress are shown in the figure below.

The measurements required for construction are indicated by letters. We enter the half-circumferences of the chest, waist and hips into the program under the letter C. These are the measurements that are divided vertically by the axis of symmetry.

Full girths that cannot be divided are recorded in full. We denote them with the letter O. The circumferences of the arms, legs, ankles, and wrists are fully taken into account.

The remaining measurements are used in full and are designated by the letters L (= length), W (= width), H (= height).

Let's take a closer look at the measurements needed for construction.

Before taking measurements, tie a string at the waist. Elena Fomenkova recommends increasing the loose fit by half the drawing.

We measure:

• Сг 1 – half-circumference of the chest 1. We measure along the convexities of the shoulder blades, through the armpits, closing above the chest;
• Сг 2 – half-circumference of the chest 2. Measured similarly to the previous one, but through the protruding points of the chest;
• h – distance from the center of the chest to the level of measurement Cr 1;

• Prg - increase in loose fit to 1⁄2 of the total chest measurement. Depends on the silhouette and can be selected from 0 to 3 cm;
• Dpl – dress length. Measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the spine to the desired length;
• Prshgr - increase in loose fit to chest width. Depends on the silhouette and is selected from 0 to 1 cm;
• Prshsp – increase for a loose fit along the width of the back. It is 7...1.5 cm;
• Dst – back length to waist. Measured from the highest point of the shoulder seam;
• Dst 7 – length of the back to the waist from the 7th cervical vertebra;
• Dpt – front length to waist. Measured from the highest point of the shoulder seam through the protruding point of the chest.

• Prshg – increase in neck width. selectable from 0 to 4 cm;
• Ssh – 1⁄2 the girth of the base of the neck. We measure at the location of the neck of the dress;
• Дп – shoulder length;
• Вг – from the highest (∙) shoulder to the protruding point of the chest;
• Vgk – see picture below;

• Tsg – the distance between the centers of the chest;

• Vprs – back armhole height;
• Vprp – front armhole height;
• Vprb – side armhole height;

• Shs – back width;
• Shg – chest width;
• St – 1⁄2 waist circumference;
• Prt – increase at the waist. Selectable from 2 to 4 cm;
• Sat – 1⁄2 hip circumference;
• Prb – increase in hips. Selectable from 1 to 10 cm;
• W – the amount of darts at the waist. The calculated value is determined as the difference (Cr 2 + Prg) – (St + Prt);
• Vvspb – height of the back of the hips;
• Wb – hip height;
• Vvpb – the height of the dart at the front of the hips.

Using these measurements, a basic pattern for a dress is constructed in the “Valentine” program or manually, on a sheet of paper.

Let's look at the step-by-step construction of a pattern on paper.

Main grid

Along the edges of the sheet we draw vertical straight lines at a distance of Cr 2 + Prg. These are the middle lines of the front and back. Place point A2 above the center line of the front. From it, perpendicular to the left, measure 25 cm, finding the position of the highest point of the front.

Measuring from point A2 down Dpt, we find point T1. From it to the left we draw a perpendicular line to the middle of the back, placing a T point at the intersection.

From this (∙) we set aside the values ​​of Dst 7 and Dst.

We put (∙) A6 and A. From A6 we measure down Dpl, mark H. From it we draw a perpendicular to the center line of the front, we put H1. The grid has been built.

Neck

Horizontally from point A we set aside 1⁄2 of the width of the neck (= 1/3 Ssh), put A3. We put the same value on the front pattern from A2, put A4. From A2 downwards we set aside the width of the neck + 1.5 cm. We put A5.

We draw neck lines A3A6 and A4A5.

Front shoulder line and bust dart

We calculate the tuck solution Cr 2 – Cr 1 = h.

From A2 we measure down Bg, mark A7.

From there, go left along the perpendicular – Cg, point A8. Section A8A4 is the first dart line. From A8 up we put aside h, put the designation h.

To the left of h we measure the calculated tuck solution, mark A9.

From A8 through h we draw a second dart line, mark A10. From it we make an arc notch with a radius of Dp + Prshp. We make the second notch with a radius Bgk from (∙) A8. At the intersection of the arcs, mark (∙) A11. This will be the lowest point of the shoulder seam. Draw a shoulder seam line from it to A10.

Back shoulder line

From point A downwards we set aside the value responsible for the slope of the shelf. It is equal to (Вг – Вгк). Mark (∙) A12. From it we draw a horizontal line about 30 cm long to the right. From (∙) A3 we make a notch with a radius (Dp + Prshsp + dart size). The size of the dart is calculated as 0.13 Dp. The result is rounded to a whole number. At the intersection of the arc with the horizontal we place (∙) A14. At a distance of 3.5 cm (constant value for all sizes) from A3 we place (∙) A15. From it we measure the tuck solution along the line (= 0.13 Dp), (∙) A17.

Down from A15 we set aside the length of the dart. For all sizes it is 9 cm, set A16. Draw the segments A15A16 and A16A17. Extend the first segment 3 mm upward, (∙) A18.

Along the straight line A16A17 we lay off a segment equal to A1A18. Let's complete the construction of the shoulder seam by connecting A3A18 and A19A14.

Armhole

From the middle line of the back we set aside 1⁄2 Shs + an increase for a loose fit. From the waist line, measure up Vprsp. We denote (∙) the intersections of A21.

On the shelf we find a similar (∙) at the intersection of Vprp and size (Shg + Prshg). We have a dart. Therefore, we measure the formula at level h and add the size (h - A9) to the result. Draw a stroke. From below we make Vprp. At the intersection – (∙) A23.

To find the bottom (∙) armhole, set it aside from the waist level Vprb. We divide the distance between the verticals drawn through A21 and A23 in half. Let us denote the point of intersection of the Vprb measure and the middle vertical as A26.

This armhole is suitable for a sheath-type sleeveless dress. For models with sleeves, increase the depth of the armhole by 1...1.5 cm.

Side seams

At the intersection of the perpendicular from A26, place A30 on the bottom of the dress. Place A25 at the intersection of the perpendicular with the waist line.

From A25 we measure down Bb, put A31.

Let's find the difference between the volume of the hips and the volume of the chest using the formula (Sb + Prb) - (Cr2 + Prg). We set aside 1⁄2 of the result in both directions from A31. To adjust the waistline, raise it at the side seams by 1 cm, set A27. We draw lines TA27 and A27T1.

Waist darts

We calculate W using the formula proposed above. We distribute the result between the back (1/2), side (1/4) and front (1/4).

From A27 we put aside 1⁄2 darts in both directions.

In the center of TA28 we place A32. From it vertically in both directions we measure the heights Vvsl = A32 - A37 and Vvspb = A32 - A38.

Draw a waist dart for the back A40A37A39A38.

From A8 we draw a perpendicular to A29T1, point A33. We lower the line by 2 cm (for all sizes), point A34. From line T1A29 at a distance of Vvpb we extend A8A33, point A41.

From A33 in both directions we measure 1⁄2 of the front dart, we get A35 and A36. We are building a front dart A41A35A34A36. We sew the side seam of the back A26A28A43A45 and the front A26A29A42A44. The basic pattern has been created.

Additionally, you can watch the construction in the video.

An example of constructing a knitted dress pattern

To create a pattern, we will use the European cutting system recommended by the Sewing Master website.

The dress pattern made from elastic fabrics has a simplified appearance, since there are no darts in it.

We take measurements as described for the previous method.

We will take into account the peculiarity of knitted fabrics to stretch in the longitudinal and transverse directions by adding a negative allowance for a loose fit. For the correct fit of the product, the increase in the half-circumference of the chest will be minus 2 cm. Divide them equally into the back and front.

Since the method of constructing a pattern is similar to the previous method, we will limit ourselves to formulas for calculations and step-by-step drawings.

Back

AG = Vprz + increase.

At = Dst 2 + increase.

TB = 18 cm (for all sizes).

We draw horizontal lines.

AA1 = 2.5 cm (for all sizes).

AA2 = 1/3 Сш + 5…7 mm.

AA3 = Шп + increase.

GG2 = 1⁄2 (Cr 2 + 1⁄2 Pr).

G1P1 = 0.15G1P.

G1P2 = 0.4 G1P.

P2P3 = 1.2 cm (for all ditches).

TT1 = 1⁄2 (St + 1 cm).

BB1 = 1⁄2 (Sb – 1cm).

Before

BB1 = 1/3 Ssh + 5…7 mm.

G3G5 = 1⁄2 (Cr 2 + 1⁄2 Pr).

G4P6 = 0.07G4G5.

G4P7 = 0.35G4G5.

P7P9 = 2 cm.

Т2Т3 = 1⁄2 (St + 1 cm).

B2B3 = 1⁄2 (Sb – 1cm).

From H2 downwards we measure 1 cm.

The pattern is ready!

An example of constructing a basic pattern for a dress with a fitted silhouette

For clarity, let’s use the drawings from the “Shaw with me” website.

We take measurements. The measurement designations on the “Sew with Me” website coincide with the designations in our previous descriptions, so it will not be difficult for you to figure it out.

Similar to the previous description, we will limit ourselves to formulas and step-by-step drawings.

Set aside the height dimensions:

• AN = Di;
• AT = Dts + Pdts;
• AG = Vprz + Pspr;
• Tb = Dlb = 20 cm;
• TT’ =1.5 cm.

G'G = Cr3 + Pg.

The width of the back and front on the “Neck with Me” website is calculated using the formulas:

• back: G'G2 = Shs + 0.2Pg;
• front: Шг + 0.1Пг + 0.5 (Сг2 – Сг1).

G2G4 = G4G3.

Back

AU = 0.4Dts;

AA2 = 1/3Csh + Pshgs;

*A2A21 = 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs.

The shoulder slope on the “Shake with Me” website is found using two radii:

*R1 = А2П1 = Шп + 1.5 cm (dart) + 0.5 cm;

• R2 = T’P1 = Vpks + Pdts;

From A2 we measure 4 cm (for all sizes), downwards – 12 cm. The tuck opening is 1.5 cm. On the website “Sew with me” it is emphasized that the length of the sides of the dart should be equal.

If the dart is moved to the side during further modeling, then lengthen it to the line of the shoulder blades.

Before

Lowering the waist line:

• 40-42 r.: by 0.5 cm;
• 44-48 r.: 0.7...1.0 cm;
• 50-56 r.: 1.2…2.0 cm;
• 58 rub. and more: more than 2 cm.

T1T11 = 1 cm.

H1H11 = 1 cm.

T11A11 = Dtp = Pdtp.

A11A12 = 1 cm.

A12A3 = AA2.

A12A4 = A12A3.

G1G5 = Cg + 0.5 cm.

A3G6 = Br + 1⁄2 Pdtp.

A3A5 = 2(Cr2 – Cr1).

G6A5 = A3G6.

Let's construct the slope of the shoulder using two radii:

*A5P5 = A2P1;

*G6P5 = Vpkp + 1⁄2 Pdtp.

Construction of the armhole - see the drawing above.

Let's check the front width on the line through P6.

Shp = Shg + 0.1Pg.

We check this size by construction. We mark the entrance to the pocket.

We make equal lengths of segments G'G4 = B'B21.

We widen the hips by the amount (Sb + Pb) - G'G1, setting aside equal parts of it in each direction.

The total size of the darts - T'T1 - (St + Pt) is divided into four parts:

• middle seam;

• side seams;

• back;

• before.

We draw the bottom line.

Ready-made dress patterns with a fitted silhouette

For beginners, we offer ready-made dress patterns.

You need to take measurements and compare them with those given below (Russian sizes are given in brackets):

• size 36 (OG – OT – OB): 82 – 66 – 88 cm (= dresses size 44);
• size 38 (OG – OT – OB): 86 – 70 – 92 cm (= dresses size 46);
• size 40 (OG – OT – OB): 90 – 74 – 96 cm (= dresses size 48);
• size 42 (OG – OT – OB): 94 – 78 – 100 cm (= dresses size 50);
• size 44 (OG – OT – OB): 98 – 82 – 104 cm (= dresses size 52);
• size 48 (OG – OT – OB): 106 – 90 – 112 cm (= dresses size 54);
• size 50 (OG – OT – OB): 110 – 94 – 116 cm (= dresses size 58);
• size 52 (OG – OT – OB): 114 – 98 – 120 cm (= dresses size 60);
• size 54 (OG – OT – OB): 118 – 102 – 124 cm (= dresses size 64);
• Size 56 (OG – OT – OB): 122–106–128 cm (= dresses size 68).

Greetings, dear readers! I hope you are in a great mood and in a fighting spirit because... Today you and I have to master one of the longest and most demanding stages of creating clothes - and independently make a pattern for the base of the dress. Do you already know why you need your individual base pattern?

Let's explain. For any modeling, you will need the basis of the dress - a pattern according to your measurements. It’s not called the base for nothing - on its, hmm.. basis, you can build an unimaginable number of different dress models! We have written about this in other articles about basic modeling techniques. For example, here we describe what you can turn your dress pattern into using such a simple modeling technique as. And here is how to do it. I’m already silent about, or a lesson about creation.

You can use the instructions given in this article and, having made all the necessary calculations, build it yourself. Or visit our basic pattern page using your measurements and make your pattern in minutes!

Right here

Enter your measurements in the special fields, click the “generate pattern” button, pay for the service and quickly get down to the fun part - modeling and sewing!

If you decide to build a basic dress pattern with your own hands, then below in the article a detailed construction sequence with drawings is described - substitute your measurements into the formulas, count them and you can start building a dress drawing.

So, our goal is to create a pattern for the base of a woman’s dress, and we have a couple of free hours, a large sheet of paper and a lot of patience), so let’s get started.

Creating a drawing grid for a basic dress pattern

Initially, we need to decide on the length of the dress. We plot this value vertically AN, placing the segment at the left edge of the graph paper (For example: AN = 110). Through A and H to the right we draw perpendicular lines.

From point A to the right, we smooth out the size of the half-circumference of the chest with an increase in freedom (For example: AB = POG + Pr = 48 + 5 = 53 cm.). Place point B. Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and place point H1.

From point A downwards we lay down a segment AT, the length of which is equal to the length of the back to the waist plus an increase (For example: AT = Dts + Pr = 38 + 0.5 = 38.5 cm) and put a point T. From T to the right we draw a line to the segment BH1 , at the intersection we place point T1. The segment TT1 is the waist level.

Then, from T down, we set aside the height of the hip line. The size of this segment is equal to half the length of the back (For example: TB = ½ * DTS = ½ * 38 = 19 cm). We place point B. From B to the right we draw a hip line, the intersection with the segment BH1 is designated B1.

Construction of the back neck

Initially, from point A to the right, along the segment AB, we set aside the value of the width of the back plus the increase (For example, AA1 = ShS + Pr = 18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm). We put point A1.

From point A1 to the right we lay off the segment A1A2 equal to 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus an increase (For example: A1A2 = 1/4 * POG + Pr = 1/4 * 48 + 0.5 = 12.5). We put point A2. Now we draw lines of arbitrary length from A1 and A2 down. Segments A1 and A2 are the boundaries of the width of the armhole.

Then, from point A to the right, we lay off segment AA3 equal to 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus an increase (For example, AA3 = 1/3 * NOS + Pr = 1/3 * 18 + 0.5 = 6.5 cm). We put point A3. AA3 indicates the width of the neck at the back.

From point A3 upward we draw a segment A3A4 equal to 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck plus an increase. (For example A3A4= 1/10*POSH + Pr=1/10*18+0.8=2.6 cm). We put point A4. A3A4 – back neck height.

In order to beautifully draw a neck line, we should divide the angle AA3A4 at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line we set aside the value of the auxiliary segment A3A5 (For example, A3A5 = 1/10 * 1POSH - 0.3 = 1/10 * 18-0.3 = 1.5 cm) and place point A5.

We connect the resulting points A4, A5 and A with a smooth curve - this is the line of the back neckline!

Construction of the shoulder section of the back

Initially, from A1 we lay down the segment A1P and put point P. (The size of the segment A1P depends on the shape of the shoulders - for normal A1P = 2.5 cm, for sloping A1P = 3.5 cm, for tall A1P = 1.5 cm).

We connect points A4 and P with a straight line. Then from A4 we set aside a segment A4P1 equal to the length of the shoulder plus an increase (For example, A4P1 = Dp +2 = 13.5 + 2 = 15.5 cm) and put point P1.

On the resulting line A4P1 from A4 to the right, set aside 4 cm and place point O. It is from point O that we will build a shoulder dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades.

From O we put 8cm vertically down – we get point O1. Then, also from point O, we put 2 cm to the right - we put point O2. We connect O1 and O2 with a straight line. The segments ОО1 and О1О2 are the sides of the dart, but we need to equalize them. To do this, from point O1 through point O2, draw a segment O1O3 = OO1 and place point O3. Then we connect points O3 and P1.A4O + O3P1 – arm length.

Now let's decide on the level of the chest line. To do this, from point P downwards we lay off the segment PG=1/4*Pog+Z. (We select the Z coefficient depending on the posture: 7 cm - for a normal figure, 7.5 cm - for a stooped figure, 6.5 cm - for a crooked figure).

(For example PG=1/4*48+7=19 cm).

Through point G to the left and right we draw a horizontal line - it determines the level of the chest and the lower level of the armhole. We denote the point of intersection with straight line AN as G1, with the line of the armhole width as G2, and with line BH1 as G3.

From point G up, set aside the value of the rear angle of the armhole, equal to GP2 = 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm, and set P2 (For example, GP2 = 1/3 * 19 + 2 = 8.3 cm).

Divide the angle at point G in half and draw a segment GP3 ​​equal to 1/10 of the armhole width + 1.5 cm and set point P3. These manipulations will help us beautifully draw the armhole line. (Armhole width = segment size A1A2). (For example, GP3=1/10*12.5+1.5=2.8 cm). We divide line GG2 in half and put point G4.

By connecting points P1, P2, P3 and G4 we get the back armhole line.

Construction of the front part

From point G2 upward we lay off the segment G2P4=1/4* Pog+W. (We also select the W coefficient depending on the type of posture: 5 cm - for normal; 4.5 cm - for stooped; 5.5 cm - for crooked).

(For example: Г2П4=1/4*48+5=17 cm). We put point P4. From point P4 to the left we set aside P4P5 = 1/10 *POG and put point P5. (For example: 1/10*48 = 4.8 cm).

From point G2 upward we draw a segment G2P6 equal to 1/3 of the value G2P4 and put P6. (G2P6=1/3*17=5.7 cm).

Now let’s perform several auxiliary constructions to draw a beautiful armhole! Connect points P5 and P6 with a straight line and divide them in half. Then to this line to the right, at a right angle, we will set aside 1 cm. We divide the angle at point G2 in half and draw a segment G2P7 equal to 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm (For example: G2P7 = 1/10 * 12.5 + 0.8 = 2.1 cm). We put point P7. We connect P5,1,P6,P7,G4 with a smooth curve - the front armhole line.

Construction of the shelf neck

From point G3 upward we set aside the value G3B1 = 1/2 *POG +R. (We select the coefficient R depending on the posture: 1.5 cm for normal and crooked; 1 cm for stooped). (For example, 1/2 * 48 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). And then we put point B1.

From point G2 upward we set aside a value equal to G3B1 and place point B2. Then we connect B1 and B2. From point B1 to the left we set aside B1B3 = 1/3 * NOS + 0.5 cm and place point B3. B1B3 - neck width. (For example: 1/3*18+0.5=6.5cm). From B1 downwards we lay off the segment B1B4 = 1/3 * NOS + 2cm and put point B4 (For example 18:3+2=8cm). We connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. В1В4 - neck depth.

From point B1 through the division point we draw a line on which we lay off the segment B1B5 = 1/3 * NOS + 1cm and place point B5. (For example 18:3+1=7cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 with a smooth line and get the neck of the shelf!

Construction of a dart

From point G3 to the left we lay off a segment G3G6, which is equal to the position of the center of the chest. We denote it by point G6.

From G6 we draw a line upward until it intersects with the line B1B2. At the intersection we place point B6. From B6 down we put aside B6G7 = VG and put point G7. Then, in the same way, from point B6, we put 1 cm down and put point B7. Then, we connect points B7 and P5 with an auxiliary segment. Along line P5 B7 from point P5 to the right we lay off a segment P5B8 equal to the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7 and minus 0.3 cm (For example, B3B7 = Dp-B3B7-0.3 = 13.5-3-0.5 = 10.2 cm) . We put point B8. From point G7 through point B8 we draw a segment G7B9 with a length equal to the segment G7B7. We denote the resulting point as B9. Connect points B9 and P5. G7B9 and G7B6 are the sides of the dart, P5B9 + B7B3 is the length of the shoulder.

At this stage we will construct the side seam of the base of the dress. Initially, from point G to the right we lay off a segment GG5 equal to 1/3 of the width of the armhole (armhole width = segment A1A2). (For example GG5=1/3*Shp=1/3*12.5=4.2 cm). We get point G5.

We draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line (with a curved line) we place point P. The intersections with lines TT1, BB1 and HH1 are designated T2, B2, H2, respectively.

We find the auxiliary quantities necessary to construct the side seam:

For example G =TT1 – (POT +1cm), (G=53 -(38+1)=14 cm).

Then we determine the coefficients:

F = 0.25*G (14x0.25=3.5cm),

L= 0.45*G (14x0.45=6.3cm),

S = 0.3*G (14x0.3=4.2cm),

Y = (PB +2 cm. –BB1)/2 (53+2-53)\2=1cm).

(Pb-half hip circumference)

If it turns out that Y is a positive number, then we move from point B2 to the left and right along Y cm (1 cm) and put points B3 and B4.

From T2 to the left and to the right we set aside 1/2*L (For example 6.3:2=3.2) and put points T3 and T4. Point P is connected to T3 and T4. Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with auxiliary lines, divide the segments in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the side of the barrel and connect them with a smooth curve to points B3 and T4 on one side and with B4 and T3 on the other side.

If it turns out that Y is a negative number, we also move from point B2 to the left and to the right along Y cm. But pay attention - the way of connecting points B3 and B4 will change.

If Y=0: then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.

From point B1, we lay down the segment B1T5 = accident + 0.5 cm and place point T5 (For example, B1T5 = 43 + 0.5 = 43.5 cm). We connect T4 and T5 with a smooth line.

From B1 downwards we set aside the value of the segment equal to T1T5 and place point B5. Connect points B5 and B3 with a smooth line.

Construction of darts and design of side seams

Let's start building darts on the front and back. It is their size that determines the degree of fit of the product according to the figure. Initially, we divide the segment GG1 in half, denoting the division point as G8. From point G8 we lower the line down until it intersects with line BB1. At the intersections with lines TT1 and BB1 we will put points T6 and B6.

From T6 to the left and to the right we set aside the back dart solution T6T7 = T6T8 = S /2 (For example 4.2:2 = 2.1) and put points T7 and T8. From point G8 down we set aside 1 cm, from point B8 up - 3 cm. Connect these points to T7 and T8.

As a result, we get a waist dart on the back, where G8B8 is the center of the dart, T6T7 = T6T8 is the tuck solution).

We begin building the dart on the shelf. From point G6 we draw a line down to the intersection with line BB1. The intersections with lines TT1 and BB1 are designated T9 and B7.

From T9 to the left and to the right we set aside the tuck solution for the shelf T9T10 = T9T11=F/2 (For example 3.5:2=1.7) and put points T10 and T11.

From point G7 down, and from point B7 up, we set aside 4 cm, then these auxiliary points and connect them with T10 and T11. And now we have already built a dart. G7B7 - line of the middle of the dart, T9T10 = T9T11 tuck solution.

Now let’s complete the side seams of the dress base drawing. To do this, draw lines from B3 and B4 down to the intersection with HH1 and mark the intersection points of H3 and H4. From H1 downwards we set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and place point H5. We connect points H3 and H5 (Figure 8).

And finally we made the pattern for the base of the dress!

It probably took about an hour to build it. Of course, if you decide to seriously engage in designing, modeling and sewing clothes, it will be interesting (and useful) for you to build the basis of the dress yourself, to figure out what dimensional characteristics are laid down and in what sequence. And yet, do you want to spend your time on this construction? Isn't it better to start creating your model right away?

So experiment, create, create something new and unique. And we will help you with this.

Have a good mood and see you soon!

I decided to sew myself a little black dress. I invite you to do this with me.

To create a basic dress pattern, we need the following measurements:

ОШ - neck circumference ( POS 18 cm)
OG - chest circumference ( POG 46 cm)
OG1 - a measuring tape passes along the shoulder blades, armpits and lies along the line above the breasts ( POG1 43 cm)
OT - waist circumference ( POT 37 cm)
OB - hip circumference ( FOB 50 cm)
DTS - back length ( 39 cm)
DR - sleeve length ( 60 cm)
Road accident - front waist length ( 37 cm)
Lpl - shoulder length ( 13 cm)
ShS - back width (36 cm)
ШП - front width. We measure along the most convex points of the front from the point of articulation of the torso and left arm to the point of articulation of the torso and right arm ( 37 cm)
CG - center of the chest. We measure along a horizontal line between the most convex points of the breasts. We write down half the value ( 9 cm)
VG - chest height (25 cm)
DI is the length of the product, in this case the length of the dress. It is measured from the back along the back from the waist line along the spine to the waist, and then down to the length you need (100 cm).

Loose fit allowances:
5 cm - along the chest line
2 cm - along the hip line
1 cm - along the waist line

We start the pattern by constructing a back pattern

On a sheet of paper, draw a vertical line (the center of the back) and at a right angle draw an upper horizontal line (neck line).

Determine the line of the hips. Down from point T we will set aside 1/2 of the DTS and designate the new point with the letter B.
39/2=19.5 (cm)

Let's draw a line from point B to line BH1 and put t.B1.

Let's draw a cut of the neck. To the right of t.A we will set aside 1/3 plus NOS 0.5 cm and put t.A3.
18/3 plus 0.5=6.5 (cm)

Up from point A3 we set aside the value 1/10 NOS plus 0.8 and draw t.A4.
18/10 plus 0.8= 2.6 (cm)

From point A4 we will draw a segment at an angle of 45 degrees to line AB. The length of the segment is 1/10 POSH-0.3 cm. We put t.A5.
18/10-0.3=0.5 (cm)

We connect points A, A5, A4 with a curve.

Let's construct the shoulder section of the dress. Let us put a segment down from point A1, which is equal to:
2.5 cm - normal shoulders
3.5 cm - sloping shoulders
1.5 cm - high shoulders

My shoulders are normal, so I choose the value - 2.5 cm.

Let's put 2.5 cm down from point A1 and put t.P.

Now let’s connect points A4 and P. From t.A4 towards t.P we will postpone the measurement of Dpl, adding 2 cm to the future dart and set t.P1.
13 plus 2=15 (cm)

Now from t.A4 on line A4P1 to the right we will set aside 4 cm and place t.O. Down from this point we will draw a line that will be equal to 8 cm and put t.O1.

On line A4P1 from point O to the right, set aside 2 cm and put t.O2. Let's connect points O and O2. Segment O2 O should be the same as O1 O. Where the resulting segment goes beyond point O2, we put t.O3.

Let's connect point O3 and point P1.

Determine the depth of the armhole. Down from t.P we will set aside 1/4 LOG plus 7 cm - for a normal figure (or 7.5 cm - for a stooped figure, or 6.5 cm - for a kinked figure) and put t.G.
46/4 plus 7.5= 19 (cm)

Through t.G we draw a parallel line to line AB, mark points G1, G2, G3.

We recheck the received value. To do this, you need to attach a measuring tape to the shoulder line and measure down 19 cm. This should be the point of contact between the arm and the body.

There are separate and detailed articles on the site about how to make the basis of a dress, sleeve, skirt, trousers, shorts and other clothes pattern. An experienced tailor at the studio offers to create a pattern using his own simplified method, specially adapted for beginners. However, for beginners who decide to sew a skirt or trousers (especially a dress) with their own hands, it is important to know not only how to correctly make a pattern and sewing technology, but also many “little things” that are insignificant at first glance.

In this article, an experienced tailor will share some tips with you. You'll learn what aspiring tailors need to know before making a pattern and starting to cut and sew your own clothes.
Please note that the VKontakte group has a lot of useful tips for beginning tailors. Sign up for the group. We constantly post various quick tips and links to useful articles.

Prepare a sketch of the future dress model

Sewing clothes, especially women's dresses, is a creativity that requires not only the ability to make a pattern and sew on a sewing machine, but also the taste and imagination of the designer. You will need to draw a sketch of the future dress model, imagine what finishing elements and details will be on it, choose the color and quality of the fabric, and the silhouette of the dress. And finally, draw it all on a piece of paper. However, you don’t have to be able to draw beautifully to sketch a dress. You can use ready-made design solutions, supplement them or change them slightly.

Do you like indoor or garden flowers? At the Green Gate nursery you can buy rooted cuttings and divisions of various domestic and perennial garden flowers. We have a constantly updated collection of anthuriums and hibiscus. Flowers and plants are sent by mail.

For beginning tailors, the pattern often comes first. They carefully and scrupulously enter their measurements into the calculations when constructing a pattern, trying not to make a mistake even by a millimeter. But, more often than not, the first result is unsuccessful, simply because there is not enough experience. Therefore, do not immediately try to sew clothes from expensive fabric, first learn the basics and gain personal experience. Even a teacher in cutting and sewing courses will not be able to give you the full amount of knowledge, not to mention articles on the Internet. You will have to learn many techniques and subtleties on your own, sometimes at the cost of your own mistakes.

Take, for example, an element such as the silhouette of a dress. Everyone knows that the silhouette can be close-fitting, semi-fitting and free. Beginners need to make three different patterns for the same size. For an experienced tailor, when modeling a dress, one but proven basic pattern is enough and he can make additions and changes to it with chalk directly on the fabric.
On our website there is original material, specially adapted and intended for beginners, on how to make the basis of a straight dress, as well as making changes to the basic pattern for a fitted and loose silhouette.

What tools are needed to make a pattern?

1. Cutting line. This is a special, transparent and wide ruler with convenient markings in inches and centimeters. Inches are used when constructing patterns taken from foreign magazines.
2. Paper tape. It is no coincidence that we placed it in second place. It will definitely come in handy when adjusting the pattern, gluing additional sections of paper, placing folds on the pattern, etc. It is not necessary to buy one with such a device; it is enough to buy ordinary masking tape in a roll, 3 cm wide.
3. This tool is used to transfer your pattern or magazine pattern onto paper. A gear wheel pierces two layers of paper with needles, accurately transferring the contours of the top sheet to the bottom. Using a copy roller you can quickly and accurately make a pattern.
4. An ordinary pencil, preferably soft. There are markings on the pencil shaft. A hard pencil is designed for thick paper, such as Whatman paper. For thin graph paper it is better to use grades M, 2M, TM.
5. You will often have to erase inaccurate or minor pencil lines, so choose a convenient and high-quality eraser.
6. Many people believe that beautiful and comfortable tailor's tape measures are better than a regular measuring tape. In fact, even professionals only use a centimeter in their work. Do not buy a centimeter that is too long, for example 2 meters. A regular centimeter, 150 cm long, is the most convenient size.
7. Tailor's scissors are considered the main tool of a tailor. They should be sharp and comfortable. Every seamstress should have at least three types of scissors in her kit: large ones for fabric; medium - for small projects and small - for cutting threads while sewing on a sewing machine. Do not use tailor's scissors to cut paper. You can buy regular office scissors inexpensively at a stationery store.
Experienced dressmakers use a special cutter to cut fabric. Don't rush to get one. For beginners, scissors are quite enough at first.
8. A rectangular ruler is simply an indispensable tool when creating a pattern, especially if graph paper is not used. This rectangle is also useful when aligning the bottom of a skirt or dress during fitting.
9. A ruler of this shape is a must have in your kit. Using it, you will create smooth lines for the armhole, neckline, etc. on the pattern.
10. And finally, graph paper. With it, you can easily make a pattern with your own hands, and then transfer its parts from the general drawing to separate sheets of thicker paper. It is sold in sheets and rolls. It is most convenient to use paper in a roll, but first you can try to make a pattern on sheets of A3, A2 paper glued together.

If you create a pattern yourself, then you practically won’t need the terms used by designers, except for the basic ones: back, front, lapel, armhole, etc. It’s a different matter when you use ready-made patterns from magazines. There you can often find a lot of unfamiliar words. We have a detailed article on our website that provides detailed descriptions of most terms and pattern details.
See Name of cutting details, cuts, terms

However, you should not put much emphasis on studying them, especially since they are most often explained in the drawing and are intuitively understandable even to an untrained person. But it is imperative to understand what the different symbols on the finished pattern mean.

1. An arrow with the inscription “DN” or “Lobe” means the direction of the grain of the fabric, taking into account which you need to lay out the pattern on the fabric.
2. “Fabric fold” means that this pattern piece needs to be laid out along the fold of the fabric when cutting, for example the back.
3. To ensure that the parts of the product do not move during sewing, it is advisable to divide them into sections and put marks. When sewing, these marks must be aligned and this way you will avoid strong displacement or stretching of the seams. Place short lines on the pattern (for example, waist line, chest line), and mark these marks on the fabric with chalk.
In this way, folds and tucks are marked, and you can even indicate with an arrow the direction of their laying.
4. If you have already sewn clothes with your own hands, then you know that some parts of the clothes need to be “shrinked”, while others, on the contrary, need to be stretched. For example, it is always advisable to cut out the sleeve cap a little larger than the armhole, and to raise the upper section of the sleeve a little. On the other hand, the buttock areas of the trousers (in some cases), on the contrary, need to be stretched with a hot iron with steam, etc.
You should pay attention to the marks on the pattern in the form of wavy lines or dotted lines with an asterisk. They indicate the area that needs to be planted or collected.
5. Professionals use patterns without allowances. But patterns for beginners are given with seam allowances. The contours of the finished pattern are indicated by a solid line, and the stitching line by a dotted line.

Unfortunately, in a short article it is impossible to provide comprehensive information on how to make a pattern with your own hands, especially for those just beginning to sew. To do this, you need to complete a 3-4 month training course, at a minimum. However, it is possible to provide important directions for self-study. Some information can be found on our website, other websites, books and video courses. Here, for example, is how to take measurements.

Any pattern is constructed so that the fabric of the clothing does not fit tightly around the figure, but has a little freedom. Therefore, when constructing, various increases in freedom of fit are used. Their size depends mainly on the size of your clothing and the characteristics of your figure (fullness). Take this into account when creating a pattern.
See Tightness Increases.

Do not blindly trust patterns from various magazines and Internet resources. You should always check them before cutting your fabric. It is impossible to create a perfect pattern that fits any figure. Apparently this is why designers often give large allowances for freedom of fit. And to check you need to learn how to make patterns with your own hands. This is such a vicious circle.

When laying out patterns on fabric, the problem of pattern parts shifting often arises. You can use thin and sharp tailor's pins and pin the paper parts to the fabric. But, not necessarily. But you need to pin paired pieces of fabric with pins. This will allow you to avoid them shifting when cutting.

Don't repeat these mistakes!

1. You should not trail when sewing. Perform the work consistently and accurately, sweeping away difficult areas by hand. After completing the sewing of a part or a complex operation (stitching a side seam, etc.), you need to perform a wet-heat treatment, carefully ironing or ironing the seams. See How to iron clothes properly.
You should especially not rush when completing the work. It's better to wait until the next day to hem the bottom of your dress or skirt than to do it late at night.
2. Experienced seamstresses know that the most important step in sewing is fitting. And the more of them you make, the better the work will be done, the more accurately the clothes will fit your figure. Be sure to do fittings when sewing any clothes. Experts even have a special term for this: first fitting and second fitting.
3. We have already said above that you should not trust patterns from magazines too much. They were made by experienced specialists, but even they cannot take into account all the deviations from the standard characteristics of typical figures.
4. Don’t think that making a pattern is something beyond your capabilities. In fact, everything is very simple. You just need to spend time and figure out what’s new to you.
5. Don't be afraid to make a mistake, but save your money. First make a skirt pattern from inexpensive fabric. Then you can try to sew shorts and trousers. Well, then make a pattern and a dress, just sew it from inexpensive, simple fabric.
6. Not all fabrics, but many, require special wet-heat treatment before sewing. Fabrics containing cotton, wool, and sometimes synthetic fibers may shrink after washing. Take this into account before cutting your fabric.
7. Since the sewing machine becomes your main assistant, keep it in order. A faulty or unconfigured machine can ruin not only your mood, but also the thing for which you worked so hard to make a pattern and spent not only time, but also money.

Skirt pattern - pencil. Very simple construction, accessible for beginners. The video is in English, but you can choose captions in any other language. If you like to sew, be sure to subscribe to this video channel. You will learn a lot of useful things. The channel was created by professional tailors.

Looking at glossy magazines, sometimes there is a feeling of regret that a dress you really like from a fashion show or from the red carpet, even if you can try it on in a boutique, can only be worn to a party in your dreams. Unfortunately, this dress will remain an unrealizable dream if you do not arm yourself with a basic pattern and model exactly the same model.

Modeling stages and rules

The design process begins with a technical drawing and modification of the top or bottom of the main pattern:

• the selected model is divided into correctly constructed parts according to the most accurately taken measurements;
• body features are taken into account;
• Increases are made for seams or loose fit, depending on the chosen style and material.

The modeling ends with cutting and sewing.

Modeling the bodice by transferring darts

The first step towards modifying the dress is to move the upper chest dart. There are many ways to transfer, for example, into the armhole cut, into the waist or neckline, into the middle of the front, or into the drapery.

To do this, you need to outline its new position so that it is directed to the highest point of the chest. Further along the lines, the pattern is cut and the old dart is closed, revealing a new one.

Below are common options for transferring a bust dart.

To transfer the dart in the shoulder seam to two soft folds, draw two lines on the pattern (in the example indicated by a dotted line) at a distance of 2 cm. Connect the top of the dart with the drawn lines. Close the dart by cutting the pattern along the lines.

Here is an example of a dress with a cutout on the shoulders, where the dart is transferred to the neckline. Then the sleeve is completed and the skirt is lengthened.

Creating draperies

It’s a little more difficult to transfer the dart into the drapery. This is done like this:

1. On wallpaper or a piece of paper, use a pencil to trace the outline of the unfolded front bodice pattern.
2. From the tops of the two bottom and top right darts, draw lines to the left shoulder. Close the darts, leaving only the left breast piece uncovered.
3. Having moved the darts apart, trace a new outline of the bodice, smoothly connecting the top points of the left shoulder.

You can translate both darts at once:

1. On the unfolded front bodice, apply shaped bold lines and drapery direction lines.
2. On the left half, move the tops of the darts to the upper end of the shaped line (i.e. F) and circle their new position.
3. On the right half, raise the top of the second waist dart to the top of the chest dart.
4. First cut out the pattern along the outline, then cut it along the drawn lines.

The shaded areas on the pattern are fabric allowances when cutting, which are needed to create draperies.

Swing collar

A beautiful drape at the neckline can be created in many ways, but they start with closing the dart.

• Measure the length of the shoulder seam, then draw the shaped lines. Cut them, leaving 1 cm uncut along the shoulder line.
• Expand the resulting parts, draw a horizontal line from the highest point of the shoulder line.
• Create a one-piece lapel.

A few more examples of modeling a swing collar.

Modeling a fluffy dress

A short dress with a voluminous skirt and an asymmetrical cutout on the bodice will allow you to be a queen at any celebration.

1. On the front bodice, move the left breast dart to the side seam, and the right one to the waist line.
2. Move the left dart at the waist 2 cm to the center.
3. Reduce the shoulder length to 7 cm and make the neckline higher.
4. Make the armholes 2 cm deeper.
5. Draw a petal-shaped cutout and cut the pattern along the modeled lines.
6. On the back, as on the front, shorten the shoulder and deepen the armhole.
7. Draw a triangular cutout, leaving 23 cm along the middle line.

For the skirt, draw a rectangle of the required length, the width of which will be equal to two hip circumferences. If the width of the fabric is not enough, cut the skirt out of two pieces.

The petticoat consists of two parts:

• 1st – top, 25 cm long and one and a half waist circumference wide;
• 2nd – bottom, width equal to two hip circumferences.

The entire length of the petticoat is made 2 cm shorter than the skirt.

Construction of loose dress patterns

A loose-fitting dress is an option that is created in a hurry, because it is suitable for a beginner in sewing. It does not require a zipper, it simply leaves an unstitched area along the back for sewing on a button.

• Mark the back with a dotted line and spread it 12-14 cm. The splendor of the folds will depend on the angle of inclination.
• Round the hem line and make the armhole and neckline deeper.
• On the front of the dress, move the chest dart to the waist. The front should be a little more flared, so add 4 cm to the bottom line of the back and front.
• The side lines of the two parts are straight segments.

If you want a dress that is short in front and long in back, on the back pattern created above, measure the desired length in the middle of the fold and draw rounded lines to the side seams.

Modeling a short dress - the sun is similar to a real flower, as it allows you to create volume with many coattails.

Having drawn a rectangle, create a pattern for the front and back with a shoulder length of about 5 cm. Cut out the parts with a fold.

Dress from Dior

An unusual fitted dress from the catwalk, decorated with a cord and with two pockets, will appeal to many.

When modeling this dress, you need to take into account some nuances:

1. The relief from the neckline smoothly extends to the back through the side seam.
2. There is a zipper inserted in the side sections.
3. The sleeve is made with two seams, one of them will hide the cord.
4. Sleeve cuffs are stitched. If the fabric is very dense, the sleeve flap on the inside can be made from lining fabric.
5. Patch pockets.
6. If the fabric frays, immediately process the cuts, for example with an overlocker.
7. The cord is sewn by hand, with hidden stitches, on both sides.