• We knit beautiful and fashionable shopping bags. Crochet string bag: fashion trend of the season Step-by-step description with diagrams

    18.03.2024

    Knitted string bags that are fashionable these days are new, but in reality they turned out to be long-forgotten old. Yes, our parents also went shopping with comfortable bags, over time they were forgotten about, but now string bags are coming back and becoming incredibly fashionable! On the shelves of the capital's stores, string bags are sold for huge amounts of money! But we are needlewomen, and we can make this beauty ourselves.

    To knit a compact shopping bag, which is called a string bag, we will need:

    - a skein of synthetic yarn, preferably not too thick, approximately 300m/100g;

    - a hook of a suitable diameter.

    There are two ways to make crocheted string bags: starting knitting from a central point or from a strip. In any case, we will continue to knit the handbag in circles.

    Now in details.

    • If you decide to knit a string bag with a round bottom, you need to cast on five air loops and enclose them in a ring. Then knit at least 10 single crochets into the ring. Starting from the second row, you need to knit with arches consisting of air loops. In the second row of these loops there should be two in each arch, in the third - three, in the fourth - four, and so on until the arches have 8 loops. When you reach this size, continue to knit equal arches on each row. Transitions between rows are carried out using connecting loops along the wall of the next arch to its middle.

    “Arch” pattern for crocheting a string bag:

    You can use another pattern for knitting a string bag, it will make it stronger:

    • If you start knitting from the central strip, then it needs to be strengthened with a couple of rows of single crochets, then continue to knit arches or double crochets, but without adding.

    The arch pattern can be replaced with simple double crochets, knitted with one loop of the previous row between them. The string bag will not be so lacy, but it will also keep its shape perfectly.

    Once you see that the height of your handbag is ideal, it's time to start decorating. To do this, tie the last row of the string bag with simple single crochets. Visually divide the bag entrance ring into 4 parts, mark all four points with pins and start knitting the handles. It's simple: when you reach a pin, knit a chain of chain stitches, it should be slightly longer than the distance to the next pin. Then use a connecting stitch to tie the chain to the mark on the bag and continue to single crochet the row until the next pin. Knit the second handle in the same way.

    The next row is single crochets. At the end of the knitting, fasten the thread, cut it and hide it.

    Want to make your handbag unique? Then, to knit its bottom, you can use any napkin knitting pattern as a base. Having reached the required diameter, continue knitting the arches without adding to the height of the bag you like.

    The finished string bag can be decorated with a satin ribbon tied with a flower. And if you take sectionally colored yarn, then you will get knitted string bags even without additional decorations.

    So, you have crocheted a string bag!

    MATERIALS

    • Microfiber yarn “Diva”, it is very durable and has a beautiful shine (or nylon cord, it will be even stronger) -100 grams
    • Hook - 2.5

    READY SIZE

    Approximately 43cm high x 28cm wide.

    If it seems to you that the size of the bag is not large, then I can say that if desired, it could also fit a sack of potatoes, it stretches so much.

    BOTTOM

    We knit 6 air loops and close them into a ring.

    Row 1: Knit 11 single crochet stitches and cast them into a ring.

    Mark the first row of the next row using a removable stitch marker or just a paper clip.

    Row 2: Make 2 single crochets in each stitch of the previous row. (22 single crochets)

    Now you can remove the marker because now the end of the row will not be critical

    Row 3: * 2 chain stitches 2, 1 stitch, repeat from * to end of row. (22 air loops)

    Row4: * chain stitches 4, 1 connecting stitch in 2 chain stitches, repeat from * to the end of the row.

    Row 5:* Chain 6, 1 connecting stitch in 4 chain stitches, repeat from * to the end of the row.

    Row 6:* Chain 8 loops, 1 connecting stitch in 6 chain chains, repeat from * to the end of the row.

    Bag

    As you begin to knit, you may find that the bag looks more like a flat doily. But as you continue to knit, the bottom will begin to sag and eventually the napkin will actually become a pipe!

    Repeat: *Chain 8 stitches, 1 stitch in 8 chain stitches, repeat with *, knit until the bag measures 40 cm from bottom to top edge.

    PENS

    Note. Mark the first stitch of the next row using a removable stitch marker. Move the marker to the beginning of each row to mark the first stitch of a new row

    Row 1: We tie the air loops with single crochets. We tie the first cell of 8 chain stitches with 6 single crochets, and in the next cells with 7 single crochets (in total you should get 161 single crochets)

    Row 2: single crochets in each stitch of the previous row

    Row 3: 1 single crochet, a chain of 50 chain stitches, skip 25 stitches of the bottom row, 1 single crochet in 54 stitches of the bottom row, then knit 50 chain loops again and skip 25 stitches of the bottom row and knit single crochets to the end of the row.

    Row 4: 1 single crochet in each stitch of the previous row, 50 single crochets in 50 chain stitches (bag handles) and so on until the end of the row.

    Row 5: 1 double crochet in each stitch of the previous row (including bag handles)

    Tie the last loop well into a knot and cut it off.

    Wash and dry the finished bag! That's it, the shopping bag is ready!

    In conclusion, I can say that the handles of the bag still need to be made wider by knitting a couple of additional rows, otherwise they will cut your hands.

    Continuing the theme, check out the beautiful bag

    Easy stitches and happy knitting!

    Crochet a string bag

    A crocheted string bag is practical and convenient, completely weightless, and can come in handy literally at every step. The string bag proposed in this master class was knitted in such a way as to fit perfectly on a three-liter jar, but is often used independently. Thanks to the large cells, the string bag is knitted quickly, and plastic yarn from a building materials store is responsible for reliability. She behaves a little unusually at work, but you quickly adapt to these nuances.

    Of course, string bags can be very different. A good idea is a string bag for a ball: it’s comfortable to wear, and there’s no worry that the bag-case will get dirty with dust after an active game in the fresh air.

    These string bags are knitted quite simply, literally in the evening - and you are the owner of a stylish and useful accessory.

    To crochet a string bag I used:

    colored polypropylene twine (500 m - 150 g);

    hook No. 1;

    lighter.

    Crochet string bag: diagram and description

    I bought twine for knitting a string bag at a hardware store. This is a fairly strong thread that will not fray during use. Moreover, a three-liter jar with filling is quite a serious load for a knitted string bag.

    At the base of the string bag on the jar there is a circle knitted with double crochets; in each next row we add 12 columns.

    Description of knitting a circle:

    1 row. Around the amigurumi ring - 12 tbsp. without a crochet.

    2nd row. We double each stitch, and now we begin to knit with double crochets - a total of 24.

    3rd row. Double every second stitch = 24+12=36 stitches.

    4 row. Double every third stitch = 36+12=48 stitches.

    5 row. Double every fourth stitch = 48 +12 = 60 stitches.

    6th row. Double every fifth stitch = 60+12=72 stitches.

    7th row. Double every sixth stitch = 72+12=84 stitches.

    8 row. Double every seventh stitch = 84+12=96 stitches.

    9 row. Double every eighth stitch = 96+12=108 stitches.

    10 row. Double every ninth stitch = 108+12=120 stitches.

    11 row. Double every tenth stitch = 120+12=132 stitches.

    Let's try on the jar. With the same knitting density it will turn out like this.

    Rows 12-15. We knit with double crochets without increments.

    The grid begins. When knitting, they seem to be “bricks”, but with a filled jar they turn into honeycombs.

    16th row. 3 v.p. rise + 11 ch, *dc with 2 crochets in the 11th stitch of the previous row, 11 ch* - alternate until the end of the row. The last chain of v.p. We attach it to the third lifting air loop at the beginning of the row with a blind loop. You will get 12 cells.

    Rows 17-21. 6 blind loops along the chain from v.p. previous row, 3 v.p. rise + 11 ch, *dc with 2 double crochets in the sixth loop of the bottom chain of ch. previous row, 11 vp* - alternate until the end of the row. The last chain of v.p. attach to the third ch. lifting at the beginning of the row in a blind loop.

    If you pull the grid up, you can see that there is already enough connected.

    Now we knit the handles according to a tricky pattern, simultaneously tying the handles themselves and sealing the edge of the mesh itself.

    You can tie the edge of the mesh either with blind loops along the cell chain, or with single crochets. First, we make 6 blind loops along the cell chain.

    We knit a handle: 70 vp, single crochet around the fourth arch.

    We turn around and do 70 stitches. without crochet on the handle.

    We additionally tie the first arch, from which the handle came out, with seven single crochets.

    Around the next arch - 7 tbsp. without a crochet, a handle of 70 ch, which we attach with a single crochet around the fourth cell from the current cell. We continue to knit the handles and tie the edges in this way until we run out of free cells. We will get 6 handles around the can.

    There were times when, apart from such shopping bags, there was nothing special to carry food in. But these days it is an original accessory. It can not only be practical, but also an interesting element of the image.

    You are unlikely to find a large variety of them on sale, so now is the time to pick up yarn to crochet a string bag. The diagrams and descriptions in this article will help you cope with this task.

    • Yarn “Diva”/or nylon cord, about 100g;
    • hook No. 2.5.

    The finished size of the crocheted string bag will be 43*28 cm.

    How to knit a string bag with your own hands:

    Let's start knitting from the bottom.

    We close 6 v/p into a ring.

    1st row: 11 b/n loops, close into a ring.

    Important! Don't forget to mark the beginning of the row with a marker or a simple paper clip.

    2nd row: 2 b/n loops in each previous loop. You will get 22 loops.

    After the 2nd row, remove the marker.

    3rd row: *2 vp, 1 joint column*, repeat ** to the end.

    4th row: * 4 vp, 1 connecting column in 2 vp *, repeat **.

    5th row: *chain of 6 vp, 1 stitch in 4 vp*, repeat **.

    6th row: * chain of 8 vp, connecting column in 6 vp, repeat **.

    Now let's move on to the description of the crochet string bag

    If at the beginning of knitting a bag it seems to you that you are getting a napkin and not a bag, then as you continue knitting the string bag, its bottom will begin to sag and you will see that you are getting a bag.

    It is necessary to repeat from *chain 8 vp, 1 connecting column in 8 vp*

    Continue in this manner until the bag is 40cm long.

    All that remains is to tie the handles of the bag.

    Note! It is necessary to mark the first row with a marker. Mark 1 stitch of each row.

    1st row: tie vp with b/n columns. The first group of 8 v.p. tie 6 tbsp, and in the next groups 7 tbsp.

    You will get 161 loops.

    2nd row: dc in each stitch of the previous row.
    3rd row: 1 dc, chain 50 vp, skip 25 loops of the bottom row, 1 dc in 54 loops, then 50 vp, skip 25 loops, knit dc to the end of the row.

    4th row: 1 b/n loop in 1 loop of the previous row, 50 b/n loops in 50 vp bag handles.

    5th row: 1 tbsp. with a crochet stitch in each loop, without missing the loops of the bag handles.

    Fasten the last loop.

    This is the kind of crochet string bag you will get after reading the master class. A crocheted string bag will become an indispensable item during shopping trips.

    I have already been asked several times on different resources how I knit string bags? And so I tried to film this process and explain how I do it, I don’t pretend to be the ultimate truth, it’s just that by the time I knitted the eighth string bag, I found, as it seems to me, the optimal size and tried to avoid all the pitfalls, and I’m sharing this with you!
    I knitted my first string bag from what I had lying around in my bins, namely a single ball of "Lily" thread from PNK orange, Addie hook 2.5, it turned out to be a bit big, now, during use, I take it with me when I understand that there will be a lot of purchases or they will be very voluminous, and I know for sure that it will include a bag of potatoes! True, at the same time she will hit me on the heels and her hands will mercilessly cut my hands, which is not good!
    By the way, I knitted the handles in it the way I saw in most options on the Internet, i.e. tie the top with single crochets, then simply knit a chain of chain stitches of the required length, and in the next row there will be single crochets on it again! Here is a photo of these handles, you can see how they stretched out.

    I also didn’t like how you can see the transitions from row to row on the French grid, so I filmed them here! Diagonally across the entire grid!


    And even on the grid with double crochets, you can also see the transition, I tried to connect it while going back, it’s not so noticeable, but still visible!


    And then I remembered that somewhere they advised when knitting fillet mesh not to walk in a circle, but to knit in turning rows, and this turned out to be the solution to the problem! The transition remains in one place, vertically, for example on its side, and is almost invisible, just like in this photo!


    So, I start by making a chain of chain stitches of the required length, about 27 cm, then tie it in a circle with the stitches I want, about five cm.


    After that, I start knitting a French mesh, casting on 4 ch, skipping 2 base loops, in the next row I attach it under the arch with a connecting post, so it seems to me that the yarn consumption is less, and therefore the string bag is lighter. The cells can be knitted in any size, it depends on the thickness of your yarn, but this seemed like a good size to me, the cells are neither small nor large, you don’t want to knit for a long time, but then nothing falls out of the string bag!


    When I reach the desired height, which is about 27-30 cm, then I knit three to four rows of single crochets, picking them up under the arches 2-3 at a time, alternating, if you dial a lot of stitches, the top will be very wide, if not enough, then it will pull the top down and it will be awkward to put the purchases in, this is what happened to me with the first string bag, I unraveled and tied the top!


    Well, and now the main thing, my version of the handles, I use connecting stitches to reach the right place and cast on 7-8 single crochets and knit as high as necessary so that the handles don’t interfere with opening the string bag, they turn out wide and don’t cut your hand, according to at least not very much, after all, it all depends on how many purchases are in the string bag!


    Then I tie the handle to the top and again use connecting posts to reach the right place and repeat everything a second time! The handles are tied, not sewn, this makes them stronger and there is no need to tear the thread and look for a needle into the eye of which your threads will fit!)))
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