• When to start watering hippeastrum. Favorite flowers. The dormant period in hippeastrum - when it comes and how it proceeds

    25.06.2023

    Hippeastrums are famous for their luxurious flowers of various shapes and colors. And although the flowering of this indoor bulbous culture lasts up to a month and can be repeated up to three times a year, the flowers inevitably wither, and only leathery elongated leaves remain above the soil surface. Then they may turn yellow.

    Hippeastrum vegetation after flowering

    The flowering of hippeastrum requires enormous strength from the plant, therefore, after the huge flowers wither, the bulb is in dire need of restoration. And this extremely important period with a single flowering usually lasts nine months. If, after flowering, the hippeastrum is transplanted, it will be found that the bulb has noticeably lost weight, and the upper scales have lost their elasticity.

    Growing leaves and intensive feeding during the growing season will help the plant regain its former strength and lay the beginnings of future flower stalks:

    • As the flowers fade, the arrows are cut off, leaving 10-15 cm above the bulb. Then, when the arrow dries, it is twisted around the axis with a slight turn.
    • Leaves appear gradually, approximately one in 3-4 weeks.

    As in the flowering period, during the growing season, the plants are watered abundantly and be sure to feed. Watering is carried out carefully, on the soil that has dried up from the previous time, without falling on the foliage and bulb:

    • At room conditions, you can pour water into the pan, making sure that the moisture does not stagnate and the roots remain healthy.
    • If the hippeastrum is planted in the garden after flowering, a shallow trench is made around the bulb in the soil, where it is carried out.

    Top dressing is carried out in moist soil or combined with watering. Regular application of liquid fertilizers, especially potassium and phosphorus, will help to quickly restore strength to the bulb.

    After flowering, it provides for feeding at least 2 times a month; for seriously weakened and young plants, they are made more frequent, for example, once a week.

    As a fertilizer, you can use complex compositions for ornamental flowering or bulbous plants.

    Rest period for hippeastrum

    Traditionally, the "hibernation" period for hippeastrum is arranged in autumn and early winter. To restore strength and lay flower buds, the bulb takes from two to three months. The exact duration cannot be known in advance, since it depends on the intensity of the last flowering and the care of the hippeastrum after it.

    A sign of readiness for rest can be the wilting of leaves on a tight large bulb. However, today there are a number of varieties and hybrids that practically do not lose leaves. In this case, you can notice that new leaf plates no longer appear:

    • At the end of the growing season for hippeastrum, watering is reduced, and in September or October it is completely stopped.
    • The last top dressing is carried out 4 weeks before the plants are sent to hibernation.

    If the hippeastrum, after flowering, retires in September or early October, then by the New Year holidays we can expect that a strong bulb will give a new peduncle. For this period of time, the plant imitates the South American winter, providing:

    • lack of lighting;
    • temperature within 12–14 °C;
    • low, not higher than 60%, air humidity;
    • extremely stingy watering, preventing the death of the roots.

    For young, non-flowering bulbs and children, a dormant period is not needed. If plants of different ages grow in one container, it is better to plant them before “hibernation”.

    This will allow you not to injure the plant with a transplant when it comes out of the dormant period, and will give the bulb additional nutrition. Usually hippeastrums after flowering go into "hibernation" transplanted in a pot. But you can also dig bulbs. In this case, they are stored on their side, without cutting off the foliage and sprinkled with sawdust. The temperature regime is the same, that is, 12–14 ° C. Often with this method it is possible to achieve earlier flowering, but there is a risk of losing the bulb due to drying.

    • If it is dense and grown over the summer, the plant has completed its rest and is ready to bloom.
    • But if her scales are sluggish, the grower made a mistake and sent the bulb into hibernation early. It is better to transplant such a plant and continue to actively feed and water it.

    Only healthy dense bulbs that have fully recovered during the growing season should be sent to rest.

    Such a hippeastrum will wake up on its own in a few weeks, releasing a powerful peduncle or first leaf.

    How to grow hippeastrum - video

    Hippeastrum (Hippeastrum) is a very beautiful bulbous perennial plant of the Amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae), which is very popular among flower growers for its high decorative qualities. Hippeastrums are native to South America. Monotonous, dull, dusty and flat steppes for many, many kilometers, which burn out completely in the summer under the merciless scorching sun, turning into a desert - the usual conditions for the growth of hippeastrums.

    Hippeastrums have adapted to such a life. During spring heavy rains, they quickly come to life, and the steppes are covered with a continuous carpet of flowering hippeastrums.

    But there are especially many hippeastrums in Brazil. Brazilian hippeastrums, growing on desert plateaus and alpine meadows, have a very beautiful color of flowers: red on the outside and white on the inside. Also in the wild, there is a type of hippeastrum with bright red, carmine flowers that shimmer in the sun with velvet.

    In North America, there is a special type of Virginian hippeastrum, which grows in damp and shady forests. The flowers of this type of hippeastrum are of variable color: purple at the beginning of flowering, gradually the color becomes less intense and turns pink, and then the flowers turn white.

    Often flower hippeastrum confused with amaryllis. However, connoisseurs will never confuse them: amaryllis has only one species - amaryllis belladonna, or beautiful (Amaryllis belladonna), the color of amaryllis flowers is mainly pink, amaryllis blooms in autumn and blooms in winter.

    Among the hybrid hippeastrums, there are so many different shades and colors of flowers that you wonder, from snow-white to purple. Hippeastrum flowers are very large, can reach 20 cm in diameter, there are up to six flowers on the peduncle. Hippeastrum blooms in spring or late winter. If desired, you can make hippeastrum bloom twice a year, which you can’t do with amaryllis. The leaves of the hippeastrum are belt-like dark green in color, can grow along with the blooming of flowers, sometimes appear after flowering.

    Hippeastrum Care

    Dishes. Narrow and tall pots are better suited for growing hippeastrum, because in addition to the bulb, the hippeastrum also has roots that are long enough and do not die off during the dormant period, but continue to nourish the bulb.

    You also need to observe the depth of planting hippeastrum. The bulb should rise from the ground by one third. And do not try to fill the pot with earth too much, it is better to wait until it settles by itself, and add earth to the desired height. Pots should not be too wide in size, it is enough if the distance between the wall of the pot and the bulb is only 2-3 cm. In too wide a container, the hippeastrum may not bloom for a long time.

    earth mixture: sod land, peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. The soil mixture for hippeastrums should be nutritious, water and breathable with a neutral or alkaline soil pH. Also do not forget about the drainage layer. Also, when transplanting hippeastrum, you can use ready-made purchased soil for bulbs.

    Lighting. Hippeastrum is a photophilous plant, so it is advisable to keep it on the southwestern, southern or southeastern windows. Light can be either direct sunlight or bright diffused. Hippeastrum hybrids that lose their leaves during the dormant period can move the hippeastrum bulb pot to a cooler and darker place.

    Air temperature. Hippeastrum grows well at room temperature. In summer, the usual room temperature is +20 +25 0 C. In winter, the air temperature may be slightly lower.

    Watering. At the beginning of winter, in order for the hippeastrum to wake up, come out of the dormant period, it is placed on a bright window. During this period, the hippeastrum has no leaves, it is not watered, otherwise you can easily ruin the bulb. Until the flower arrow appears, the hippeastrum can not be watered. After the appearance of the peduncle and until the flower arrow grows up to 7-10 cm, watering the hippeastrum should be weak, otherwise the leaves will begin to grow to the detriment of the flowers. Watering is best done in a pan or along the edge of the pot, without getting water on the bulb. As the peduncle grows, watering increases.

    After flowering, the hippeastrum leaves and bulb begin to grow, new flower stalks are being laid for the next year, during this period watering should be regular. By the end of summer, watering stops. At this time, the hippeastrum begins a dormant period. Pot with hippeastrum can be put in a cool place and not watered. If the room temperature is high, then you can water occasionally a little so that the bulb does not dry out. Hippeastrum does not need high humidity, so it does not need air spraying, it prefers dry content.

    top dressing. The first top dressing of the hippeastrum can be done when the height of the flower arrow is about 15 cm. If the hippeastrum is recently transplanted and there are enough nutrients in the soil, top dressing can be done later. When top dressing, focus on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They contribute to flowering, the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb, the laying of future flower stalks. But it is better to exclude nitrogen fertilizers, they can provoke gray rot, and the plant can be irretrievably lost.

    Transfer. Hippeastrum can be transplanted 30-40 days after the end of flowering. An annual transplant is not at all necessary, but in this case, change the top layer of the earth every year, because the hippeastrum quickly consumes nutrients from the soil, and this will affect flowering later. You can also transplant hippeastrum before it leaves dormancy, that is, at the end of December.

    Rest period. Hippeastrum needs a dormant period in order to bloom annually. It usually lasts from late summer to late October. When preparing hippeastrum for a dormant period from the end of summer, watering and fertilizing should be limited. In many hippeastrums, the leaves die off completely.

    Hippeastrum, if desired, can be grown without a pronounced dormant period. Then you need to keep it all year long on a bright, sunny window in a warm room, pour it with warm water as the earth dries out, preferably in a pan. With such care, hippeastrum can bloom in autumn in October - November or in spring in March - May. The dark green leaves of hippeastrum remain healthy throughout the year and do not lose their beauty.

    Hippeastrum reproduction. Hippeastrum is easily propagated by daughter bulbs that are completely identical to the mother plant. Children more than two centimeters are separated from the main bulb during transplantation. Young plants bloom in 2-3 years.

    But what to do if some varietal hippeastrums do not form children? In this case, the hippeastrum can be propagated as follows: cut a healthy hippeastrum bulb with a clean and sharp knife into two or four parts so that each share has a part of the bottom. Carefully process the slices of the bulb with crushed coal and dry for two to three days. After the cut has dried, each share can be planted in a mixture of sand and peat or perlite. It is not necessary to deepen such an onion, it should simply lie with its bottom on the surface of the earthen mixture.

    But you can not completely cut the hippeastrum bulb to the end, but make only deep cuts, so that the bulb is divided into two or four parts, but does not fall apart at all. Sections are also processed with crushed coal and also dried for two to three days. After that, the bulb is simply placed on an earthen mixture of sand and peat or perlite. Watering such bulbs is carried out only through the pallet. After a while, babies appear at the base of the cut bulb.

    Hippeastrum can be pollinated and propagated by seeds. In this case, sometimes a completely unpredictable result is obtained (so to speak, a breeder himself).

    After pollination of the hippeastrum, a seed box is formed on the peduncle. In this case, the peduncle does not need to be removed, wait until the seeds ripen. But remember that such a procedure can greatly weaken the bulb, which will again affect flowering in the future: the flowers will be smaller, or the plant will not bloom at all. It is good to conduct an experiment with hippeastrum seeds in open ground, where the bees fly, and the bulb will pick up nutrients from the ground during the ripening of the seeds.

    Hippeastrum seeds are sown immediately after harvest, otherwise they quickly lose their germination. Planting seeds to a depth of one centimeter, seedlings appear in two to three weeks. Hippeastrum seedlings are photophilous, so put them in a bright place. In order for small hippeastrums to grow better, you can feed with a weak solution of liquid mineral fertilizers. Young hippeastrums do not need a dormant period.

    Pests. The main pests of hippeastrum are spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and onion mites. Pests visible to the naked eye can be removed manually with a sponge or cotton swab dipped in an alcohol solution, after which the plant is repeatedly treated with a solution of actellik, fitoverm or karbofos.

    When planting in open ground, do not plant the hippeastrum next to other bulbs, such as lilies, otherwise the hippeastrum may be affected by an onion mite. The bottom of the bulb begins to rot and gradually the whole bulb rots.

    Diseases. One of the most dangerous diseases of hippeastrums is the red burn of the bulbs, or staganosporosis. At the first detection of red stains and dots on the hippeastrum bulb, without regret, cut out all foci of infection to healthy tissue. Cut off all affected leaves and dead roots. All sections and the bulb itself must be treated with phytosporin, foundationazole, Maxim.

    Dry the treated hippeastrum bulb for a week, see if new foci of infection appear. If everything went well, then plant the hippeastrum bulb in a new pot and a new substrate. At first, minimal watering and only in a pan with solutions of phytosporin, foundationol to ensure disinfection. Planting the bulb in this case should be as high as possible, this will allow you to control the condition of the bulb. If everything goes well, then the soil can then be added to the desired height. The main thing is to save the bulb.

    In addition to the red burn, hippeastrum can be affected by anthracnose and fusarium. Treatment is almost the same as with a red burn: removal of damaged tissues, repeated treatments with phytosporin, fundazol, Maxim.

    Remember, diseases appear from improperly selected earth mixture, excess nitrogen fertilizers, improper watering (too plentiful, or water got into the middle of the bulb), from lack of light. If the conditions of detention are chosen correctly, then the hippeastrum will delight you with its flowering for a long time.

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    Hippeastrum is a perennial flower, the care of which does not take too much effort. At home, the plant feels great, as evidenced by its regular flowering. In order for the hippeastrum to please the eye, it is very important to know about all its features, monitor watering, temperature and light conditions, and properly care after flowering.

    Description

    The hippeastrum flower belongs to the Amaryllis family. The name of the plant consists of two parts, which in ancient Greek mean "horseman" and "star".

    The plant is a bulbous perennial, there are more than 90 species of this flower. The bulb itself is round, less often conical, consists of a small thick stem and closed scales. Its size depends on the type of hippeastrum and ranges from 5 to 10 cm in section.

    On the bottom (base) of the bulb, there is a small bundle of cord-shaped roots. The entire root system of the plant is formed along the edge around the bottom in a ring, leaving the center of the base empty. The hippeastrum roots themselves are quite thick and fleshy. Their average diameter is 0.5 cm, and the length is up to 35 cm. In the process of dying off old roots, the formed ring gradually rises up the stem.

    The plant has linear leaves, on the upper side they have a grooved shape, and on the lower side they are keeled. They are located in two opposite rows and have an average length of 50-70 cm and a width of 4-5 cm.

    The umbellate inflorescence consists of 2-6 flowers, reaches a length of 13-15 cm and has a diameter of up to 25 cm. It is formed on a hollow leafless peduncle, which reaches up to 80 cm in height. The surface of this peduncle is smooth, but covered with a sticky coating that is easily erased. Its color depends on the species and can vary from light green to rich bottle color.

    The flowers themselves are funnel-shaped or tubular in shape and are located on fairly long petioles. The size of the flowers on average reaches up to 25 cm in diameter. The perianth is a fused corolla-shaped ball, consisting of 6 petals arranged in two circles.

    Hippeastrum has a fruit - an angular or spherical tricuspid dry box, which is formed after flowering. After full maturation, the box cracks and releases the seeds formed in it.

    Features of care

    Caring for houseplants is a very delicate and troublesome task. Each flower requires a special regimen, sufficient watering and a specific lighting solution. In order for Hippeastrum to please the eye with its beautiful colors, it is very important to know exactly about all its features.

    There are a number of factors that beginner flower growers should definitely pay attention to.

    1. All varieties with white or just light flowers form quite a few seeds.
    2. Each hippeastrum flower blooms for no more than 10 days.
    3. The flowering time of the plant can be adjusted independently.
    4. In the summer, it is better to dig the hippeastrum into the ground in the garden, if possible.
    5. In order for the plant to grow beautiful and healthy, it is better to use large bulbs with a large supply of nutrients for forcing it.
    6. During the period of active growth, a comfortable temperature regime should be ensured - from 17ºC to 25ºC.

    The hippeastrum flower is quite photophilous, therefore, when choosing its “habitat”, it is better to give preference to southern window sills or take care of artificial lighting. But do not forget that direct sunlight adversely affects the condition of the plant, so it is very important to avoid them.

    Important! In order for the flower to maintain its compactness and be proportional, from time to time the pot should be rotated around its axis.

    Watering and feeding

    At the beginning of the growing season, the plant should be watered quite a bit - once a week is enough (in addition, the portion of water should be minimal - no more than one glass). When the plant gives its first peduncle, watering can be made more abundant - 2 times a week, 1 glass of water.

    As the arrow (peduncle) grows, watering should be moderate - the earth in the flower pot should always be moist. It is very important to avoid getting water directly on the bulb - for this it is best to use the bottom watering technique (when the flower is watered not from above, but from the bottom of the pot), or watering not from a watering can, but from a flat pan.

    It is also very important not to forget about the drainage layer. In the absence of it, the root system will not receive oxygen, and soon its festering is possible.

    To cause the least harm to the plant, its transplantation is carried out by transshipment. Simply put, the bulb of the plant is placed in a pot in such a way that at least a third of it is on the surface.

    reproduction

    Hippeastrum is propagated by seeds or vegetatively. Sowing seeds into the soil is recommended to be done immediately after they are collected - during this period their germination is almost 100%. In the event that the seeds have had time to dry out, experienced flower growers note that the germination rate drops significantly. 1-2 weeks after the seeds are harvested, the chances that new flowers will sprout from them drop to 30%.

    Important! Getting the old flower to produce seeds is possible only if you are ready to do artificial pollination of the flower.

    The second method is vegetative, it is much simpler and takes much less time. Each adult hippeastrum plant in the area of ​​​​the bulb forms new small bulbs - “kids”. It is they who are intended for transplanting into separate pots for the purpose of further reproduction.

    To do this, during transplantation, with the help of a sterile instrument, the young process formed on the old bulb is separated. All cuts formed during this procedure are treated with crushed coal. After that, the young onion is planted in a small pot.

    In order for the plant to grow healthy and beautiful, 3-4 months after its planting, its first top dressing with mineral fertilizers is carried out.

    Important! A young plant should not be deprived of foliage even during dormancy.

    rest period

    From September to January, the hippeastrum begins the so-called dormant period. At this moment, the plant does not undergo any external changes - its growth stops, all biological processes slow down or stop altogether.

    If, according to the recommendations of experienced flower growers and gardeners, for the summer period you planted your hippeastrum in open soil, then in the first days of September you should transplant the plant back into its usual pot and bring it into the house.

    It is also very important to minimize watering before the onset of the dormant period - as a result, the leaves gradually begin to dry out in the plant, which should be carefully removed or cut off. After all the foliage has dried up, the flower stem is also cut off and the bulb pot is transferred to a dry, dark place.

    The pot is stored at a temperature of 6-12°C without the slightest watering. To minimize the risk of injury to the bulb, it is recommended to lay the pot on its side.

    Bloom

    In order for the plant to always please the eye, it is very correct to care for it during the flowering period and after.

    Care during flowering

    Subject to the light and temperature conditions, normal watering and timely feeding, the flowering of hippeastrum begins in late winter - early spring. Some adult plants can please their owners with beautiful flowers even in the middle of summer (but this is quite a rarity).

    Peduncles are usually formed from foliage - usually there are 3-4 peduncles per plant. When a plant emerges from its dormant period, it is very important to ensure that its foliage is abundant and healthy.

    When the hippeastrum blooms, its light regime should be observed - it is strictly forbidden to get direct sunlight on foliage and flowers. Also during this period, it is fed with various organic and mineral fertilizers.

    Other indoor plants do not always please with abundant flowering. The article "" describes the possible causes of this misunderstanding.

    Care after flowering

    When all the flowers have fallen, the hippeastrum needs special care. After flowering, the arrow (peduncle) should be carefully cut off, and the plant itself should be moved to a darker place. This is done in order to "calm down" the hippeastrum after stress and give him the opportunity to gain strength.

    Important! If you carried out artificial pollination of hippeastrum flowers, do not forget about their sowing.

    Also, after flowering, it is very important to minimize the risk of injury to foliage and bulbs - to exclude transplantation and the possibility of mechanical influences on the flower.

    In order for home hippeastrum to always please with timely flowering, you should remember a few simple rules.

    1. With a lack of moisture, the leaves of the plant become dull, and the flowers lower their heads. The soil in the plant pot should always be slightly moist.
    2. If the temperature in the room in which the flower pot is located is too low, there is a risk that it will simply begin to darken. In this case, it is very important to quickly move the plant to a warmer place.
    3. If you notice that the foliage of the hippeastrum has begun to wither, it is recommended to reduce watering to a minimum, first let the soil dry completely.
    4. The fading of the flowers may indicate a glut of sunlight. In this case, the plant is recommended to shade.

    At the end of winter, lilies bloom on windowsills in many apartments. So in common parlance they call the hippeastrum of the amaryllis family. Large flowers of different shades, collected in inflorescences, delight the eye on the eve of spring, give a good mood. This article contains useful tips for caring for indoor hippeastrum at home.

    In nature, the "cavalier star", as hippeastrum is translated, grows in the tropical part of the American continent. It is found on the mountain slopes, plateaus of Venezuela, Mexico, Brazil. In the eighteenth century, seafarers and merchants began to bring exotic plants to Europe from their trips across the ocean and take care of them. Botanists began to study and describe unknown plants. At the same time, the construction of greenhouses began, which appeared in botanical gardens and private estates.

    Hippeastrum in vivo

    At this time, botanists discovered and described several types of lilies, which were called amaryllis. At the beginning of the 19th century, a new genus was isolated - hippeastrum. It also includes some types of amaryllis. This has led many hippeastrums to be called amaryllis. This misconception still persists among amateur flower growers.

    And only in 1954, at the congress of botanists around the world, it was approved that there is only one species belonging to the amaryllis family, called Amaryllis beautiful. At the same time, there are about eighty species of hippeastrums belonging to the same family.

    Appearance

    The hybrid hippeastrum, grown at home, has long wide leaves, reaching seven centimeters in width and more than half a meter in length. The bulb of the plant is large, up to ten centimeters in diameter. The arrow of the peduncle often exceeds one meter. On it are large flowers, the diameter of which reaches twenty centimeters. The number of flowers on the peduncle can vary from two to ten. Hippeastrum flowers are distinguished by a variety of colors and shades - from dark red to white. Colors with dots, spots of a different color are common, with a transition of shades from the funnel to the edge of the flower.

    Differences between Hippeastrum and Amaryllis

    People often confuse amaryllis and hippeastrum, because the plants look very similar and belong to the same family. But when they have significant differences, which are shown in the table.

    Amaryllis Hippeastrum
    motherland Southern Africa Tropics of America
    bulb shape Pear-shaped, with gray scales Round or elongated, with brown-yellow scales
    Number of flowers in an inflorescence 6 to 12 From 2 to 6, less often up to 9-10
    flowering time Autumn End of winter - beginning of spring
    Peduncle without cavity hollow inside
    Leaves Narrow, grooved, smooth Depending on the type, they can be smooth or rough, elongated

    Hippeastrum is widely used as a houseplant due to its unpretentiousness. It is enough to follow the simple rules of care during dormancy and flowering, and he will delight you with his flowers. The big advantage of hippeastrum is the possibility of forcing, which allows you to achieve flowering by a certain date.

    Varieties of indoor Hippeastrum

    The abundance of species of the "cavalier star" required their classification. Different countries have their own color groups. Basically, hippeastrum varieties are divided into simple and terry, orchid-like, with long tubular flowers and miniature hybrids.

    Consider the most popular indoor varieties.

    Lady Jane

    Variety Lady Jane has large double peach-colored flowers with pink streaks in the center of the petals. The flowers are up to twenty centimeters in diameter.

    Hippeastrum Leopolda

    Hippeastrum Leopolda often found in home collections. Pink petals end with a white border. Inside the flower, the white color gradually acquires a pale green hue.

    Hippeastrum Spotted

    Hippeastrum Spotted- a low plant that throws out leaves after the appearance of flowers. The cream-colored petals are decorated with red dots, and the throat has a yellowish-green color.

    Royal (Regina)

    Variety Royal (Regina) a flower of a rich red hue appears on a peduncle about half a meter high. Leaves appear after flowering. The number of flowers varies from two to four.

    angustifolia

    Variety angustifolia characterized by narrow, slightly curved orange petals. The number of buds on one peduncle can reach nine.

    parrot

    The rare species are Hippeastrum Parrot. Its wide petals of a light green hue are decorated with cherry-colored longitudinal stripes. Peduncle 90 cm high crowned with buds in the amount of two to four.

    Reticulate

    Hippeastrum Reticulated refers to low-growing varieties. His peduncle does not grow above half a meter, and up to five bright pink buds with darker veins appear on it, forming a mesh pattern on the petals.

    Landing

    Pay attention to the red dots

    Before planting the bulb, you need to pay attention to its condition. A healthy bulb should not have a red border and / or red dots, which indicate the presence of a fungal disease. If the bulb is bought, then it should have dry brownish scales with live roots. If it has dents, grooves, then it is better to refuse such a purchase.

    The pot for planting is selected so that between the bulb and the wall there is a gap in the finger, but not more than three centimeters. It must be borne in mind that the plant grows tall, so the pot must be stable and deep enough.

    How to plant hippeastrum? Drainage up to two centimeters thick is poured at the bottom. For drainage, you can use expanded clay, small pieces of shards, bricks. Then follows a layer of soil, which is poured into a mound. Under the roots of the bulb, you can pour a handful of sand. Having installed the bulb on a mound, straighten the roots and gently sprinkle with earth. The ground level should not be higher than the middle of the bulb.

    Important! Watering after planting is carried out in a pan or along the edge of the pot, preventing water from entering the bulb.

    Hippeastrum is not picky about the soil. To ensure lush flowering, it is recommended to prepare the soil yourself from the following components, which are taken in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1:

    • sod land;
    • humus;
    • peat;
    • river sand.

    A small amount of wood ash and bone meal are added to the mixture. In the absence of flour, superphosphate is added at the rate of two teaspoons per liter of earth. Phosphorus is needed by the plant for lush flowering. You can buy a ready-made earthen mixture for bulbous plants.

    Important! If, after planting a new bulb, leaves do not appear after a month and a half, then it is not viable.

    Transfer

    Hippeastrum transplantation is carried out annually for young plants, then a year later. And old plants are transplanted once every two to three years. But if the plant is not transplanted, then it is necessary to replace the top layer of the earth annually.

    When to transplant hippeastrum? Traditionally, transplantation is carried out in the spring, after flowering. But you can transplant in the fall, before the start of the dormant period. In autumn, plants are transplanted that were planted (carried out) for the summer in the garden.

    Before planting in a new pot, the bulb must be carefully examined for wounds and rot. Sick bulbs are best thrown away. The bulb is placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. Long roots are cut, the cut and wounds are sprinkled with crushed activated charcoal. The planting process and land selection is described above.

    Watering and feeding

    Proper watering for hippeastrum is of great importance and depends on the period of plant development.

    In September, before the start of the dormant period, watering is reduced. By the end of September, watering can be stopped completely if the flower is in a cool place. If you had to leave it in a warm room, then you can slightly moisten the soil. During this period, the plant lives off the nutrients accumulated in the bulb.

    After the end of the dormant period and the appearance of the peduncle, the plant is transferred to a warm, bright place. As the peduncle grows, watering is increased. From the beginning of flowering until the dormant period, the flower needs regular watering, avoiding water on the bulb. It is better to pour water into the pan.

    Hippeastrum is fertilized with mineral fertilizers. It is advisable to use two types of fertilizers. In the spring, at the beginning of the vegetative period, top dressing is applied for deciduous plants. Fertilizer for flowering plants is applied from the moment the buds appear until the end of flowering. The second stage of fertilizing with fertilizers for flowering plants begins from the moment the leaf growth ends until the dormant period begins. The frequency of fertilization is from two to four times a month.

    The plant does not require spraying. You can periodically wipe the leaves from dust with a damp sponge.

    Where to put the pot

    Hippeastrum loves sunshine

    The plant loves sunlight, so it feels good on windows facing south, southeast and southwest. In summer, on the south side, it must be shaded from scorching rays. After flowering, the leaves grow and the accumulation of useful substances in the bulb, the formation of scales.

    The plant develops well at temperatures from 17 to 23 degrees Celsius, but the temperature above does not harm it. During the dormant period, it is recommended to keep the flower in a shaded, cool place with a temperature of 10-15 degrees. If it is not possible to place the flower in a cool place, then you can leave it in the room, providing rare and weak soil moisture.

    rest period

    Hippeastrum has a dormant period in late September - early October. In most species, the leaves die off, which then must be removed. Some flower growers create an artificial dormant period for the flower, the duration of which should be one and a half to two months. Thus, it is possible to achieve flowering by a certain date or two or three times a year.

    It is possible to breed hippeastrum without a pronounced dormant period. It is kept in a normal sunny place with watering as the soil dries. In this mode, the plant can please flowering in spring or autumn.

    Hippeastrum bloom

    With proper care and a dormant period, hippeastrum blooms in late winter - early spring. In adult plants, flowering is possible one more time - in the summer. The number of peduncles depends on care in the summer and the number of leaves formed. The plant has a feature: flower stalks are laid through four leaves. Therefore, the more leaves grow before the dormant period, the more flower stalks will appear on your plant. It is desirable that the number of leaves be at least seven or eight.

    Hippeastrum blooms in late winter or early spring

    If the bulb was bought in winter and you want to quickly admire the flowering, it is recommended to hold it in warm water (forty degrees) for a couple of hours before planting. After planting, carefully water the soil and place in a warm, bright place. The next watering is performed after the peduncle grows ten centimeters.

    After the end of flowering, the peduncle must be cut off, the plant is regularly watered and fed.

    Why is Hippeastrum not blooming?

    If the hippeastrum does not bloom, this means that the conditions of detention have been violated:

    • in spring and summer, the plant did not receive the necessary minerals;
    • lack of light during the growing season;
    • the plant was at a low temperature.

    Reproduction of Hippeastrum

    Hippeastrum can be propagated in several ways.

    Children's department

    The easiest way is to separate the children. When transplanting, the bulbs are carefully separated, the diameter of which should be at least two centimeters. Bulbs with roots are immersed in the ground by two centimeters. A new plant will begin to bloom in three to four years.

    dividing the bulbs

    Unfortunately, not all types of hippeastrum are formed by children. In addition, if the maintenance regime is violated, onion babies may not appear. Therefore, if necessary, propagate the flower using the method of dividing the bulbs.

    The leaves are cut off the bulb, the roots are cut to two centimeters. The bulb is cut into 2-4 parts, so that on each share there is a bottom with roots, otherwise it will not take root. The cutting sites are sprinkled with activated charcoal, left to dry for two to three days. When planting in the soil, only the lower part is deepened. The mixture for planting is prepared from peat and sand in equal proportions. You can cut the onion into four parts, but not completely. In order for the incisions to dry out, sticks are inserted into them. The cut bulb is planted, covering only the lower uncut part with earth. It is recommended to water the divided bulbs from the pallet. After some time, each slice gives a baby. Reproduction by dividing the bulb is recommended at the end of autumn, while the bulb has a maximum supply of nutrients. The process of dividing the bulb is clearly shown in the video.

    Scale reproduction

    The third method of division is called reproduction by scales. With this method, the onion is cut into pieces (8-16) so that a part of the bottom remains on each share. The knife is disinfected with alcohol before cutting the bulb. The cut slices are sprinkled with Kornevin, planted in sand or sphagnum moss. In this case, the tops should be outside. Germination containers are placed in a warm place (at least 20 degrees).

    Bulb slices are planted in sand or sphagnum

    Reproduction by seeds

    You can get new plants from seeds. To do this, you need to pollinate the flower and wait for the seeds to ripen. This will take up to two months. Seeds must be sown immediately after collection in the ground to a depth of one centimeter. After two or three weeks, sprouts appear. Containers with plants are placed in a bright place, shading from the sun. This method of reproduction is used by breeders to breed new varieties, because the bulb loses many useful substances.

    Video: Hippeastrum from seeds at home.

    Diseases and pests

    Hippeastrum is a disease resistant plant. Most often he suffers from a "red burn". This name hides the insidious fungal disease stagonosporosis. Its signs can appear both on the leaves and on the bulb. Oblong red spots appear on the leaves. Red spots can also be found on the bulbs. The bulb becomes covered with wounds, softens and the plant may die. One of the signs of the disease is stunting and adding leaves.

    Red burn on leaves

    Red burn on bulb

    When buying a bulb, you need to carefully examine it so that there are no red spots. The husk should be shiny, brownish in color. The head itself is solid, without dents. If signs of illness appear at home, it is necessary to remove the bulb and examine it. If there are small spots, they are cut out, the wounds are treated with brilliant green or copper oxychloride. After drying for a week, the bulb is planted in fresh soil, previously treated with a fungicide. The bulb is planted so that the bottom with roots is sprinkled with earth. With severe damage and softening of the bulb, it must be destroyed.

    To prevent damage by Fusarium, the bulb is soaked for a couple of hours in a solution of potassium permanganate before planting. The disease manifests itself by yellowing of the leaves and drying of the plant. The bulb is treated with brilliant green, and the soil is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

    Among pests, hippeastrum can be affected by spider mites, thrips and daffodil fly. The appearance of thrips is indicated by white spots and stripes on the outer side of the leaves. The insects themselves can be found on the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out two or three treatments with Actellik, Fitoverm or a similar preparation with an interval of five days.

    The narcissus fly lays its eggs in the neck of the flower. The larvae penetrate deep into the bulb and damage it. The plant stops growing and blooming. It is recommended to check the bulb, process it with Actara. With severe damage, you have to get rid of the diseased plant.

    Growing problems

    • With insufficient watering, the leaves turn pale, the flowers lower their heads. During flowering it is necessary to keep the soil slightly moist.
    • At low temperatures, the flowers begin to turn black. It is necessary to move the plant to a warm place.
    • If the leaves turn pale and fade, then this indicates excessive moisture in the pot. It is necessary to reduce watering, after drying the soil.
    • If the flowers become faded, then you need to shade them from the sun's rays.
    • Hippeastrum leaves turn yellow and dry out in anticipation of a dormant period. If this happens at other times, then pay attention to the violation in care (damp or cold). Check the plant for pests that can cause yellowing of the leaves.

    With proper care and compliance with the watering and fertilizing regime, the hippeastrum will delight you with its flowering every year.

    Hippeastrum is a beautiful bulbous plant grown as an indoor flower. The homeland of the original species is South America, but now there are mainly numerous hybrid varieties on sale that are superior in decorative qualities to natural ones.

    Growing Features

    You can calculate the timing of flowering and adjust them with forcing. For stable flowering, it requires compliance with certain conditions, in particular a dormant period. In the absence of such, it will not die, but flowering will be irregular.

    Planting hippeastrum

    The high decorative qualities of hippeastrum are the reason for the acquisition of this plant.

    Landing method

    If the hippeastrum is purchased in the form of a bulb, then it is planted no more than half the height. The top of the bulb should not be in the ground.

    In the case of purchasing a flowering plant in a pot, transshipment after purchase is not required.

    Optimal landing time

    Buying a dormant bulb is good because you can postpone planting indefinitely by adjusting the start of flowering. Before being placed in a pot with earth, the bulb is stored in a dark, cool place.

    substrate

    The soil must be nutritious. Use the finished mixture for bulbous, roses, universal. Or mix compost with a small amount of sand, and preferably perlite or coconut fiber - for looseness. Self-prepared soil must be disinfected in a microwave oven, because. uncultivated land can become a source of bulb infection.

    Hippeastrum care has a pronounced seasonal character. The preservation of decorativeness and the general well-being of the plant depend on this.

    Location and lighting

    During the growing season, a large amount of light is required. Protect from direct midday sun during the summer months.

    During the dormant period they are kept in the dark until the exit of the flower arrow.

    Air humidity

    Hippeastrums do not need high or low humidity of the air around them. Dust from the leaves is removed by wiping with a damp cloth, and not by spraying, because. it is undesirable to get moisture on the bulb.

    Temperature

    During the period of active growth, the air should be warm. A decrease in temperature can be perceived by the plant as a signal to enter a dormant period. It develops well at 22 - 28 degrees. Resting at a temperature of 10 - 12 degrees.

    Proper watering

    During the growing season, you need to water the plant enough, avoiding, however, waterlogging. When watering, water should not fall on the bulb, so water carefully around the perimeter of the pot, or water is poured into the pan.

    During the dormant period, watering is contraindicated.

    top dressing

    For good development and regular abundant flowering, hippeastrum needs a significant amount of nutrients. They are fed 2 times a month during the growing season with a universal fertilizer in full dose, which is alternated with phosphorus-potassium (for example, ash).

    It does not need forming pruning, because. does not have a trunk and branches.

    Trimming method

    At the end of flowering, cut off the upper part of the peduncle, if pollination has not been carried out to obtain seeds. The rest is twisted out of the bulb after drying. Cut off damaged and diseased leaves.

    Transfer

    With regular top dressing, the need to transplant the bulb arises after 2 to 3 years. This procedure is performed with an increase in the volume of the bulb, as well as to separate the children.

    Transplant method

    If a bulb transplant is planned, then at the end of the growing season, after the leaves die, they dig it up, clean it from the ground, remove the babies, wrap it in dry paper and store it in a cool place until the end of the dormant period.

    Before active growth begins, the bulb is soaked for a short time to revitalize the roots and stimulate the germination of new ones. Then they are planted in a fresh, disinfected earthen mixture, compacting it around the bulb. In the absence of roots, water strictly along the perimeter of the container.

    The pot is chosen not too spacious. The roots should take over the entire space in a short enough period to prevent rotting from excess moisture. In a bulk container, there is a high probability of the appearance of a large number of children at the expense of flowering.
    The pot with the bulb is placed in a warm, dark place. Expose to light after the appearance of the peduncle. Then resume watering.

    Hippeastrum reproduction

    Hippeastrum is propagated in three ways, depending on the purpose: seeds, babies and parts of the bulb.

    Reproduction methods

    • seed way. During flowering, pollination is carried out. If the ovary has formed, the peduncle is not cut off, but left until the seeds ripen. When the seed pod expands to an almost round shape and begins to crack, the seeds are ripe. They are large, flat, numerous. Full-weight fresh seeds sprout very well. Young plants form a small bulb, which grows rapidly and blooms for 4 - 5 years. Seedlings are not satisfied with the dormant period. This method of reproduction does not guarantee the complete transmission of parental traits even when plants of the same variety are pollinated. Often there is a splitting of characteristic features and as a result different flowers are obtained from seeds from one plant. Therefore, the seed method is often used for breeding work.
    • Reproduction by bulbs- by children - the most common and easy way. When transplanting a bulb, young bulbs that have grown during the growing season are removed from it, trying to keep the leaves on them. The mother plant is sent to rest. And the children are immediately planted and create conditions for the growing season. The resulting plants completely repeat the characteristics of the parent.
    • Division of an adult bulb they are rarely used for propagation, since with this method the result is not guaranteed, and the bulb has to be sacrificed. It is resorted to in the absence of children on the plant. The bulb is divided from top to bottom into 4 - 6 parts, leaving each part of the bottom. Then each delenka is disassembled into scales, without separating them from the bottom. They are planted in the substrate shallowly, only with roots and bottom. After some time, small onions appear in the lower part, which, over time, are removed from the division and planted for growing. These bulbs bloom for 3-4 years.

    Bloom

    A healthy, properly grown plant blooms annually. Flowering time can be adjusted.

    Flower buds are laid during the period of active growth of leaves and bulbs after the previous flowering. If there was enough light, heat, nutrients, and the rest period was correctly carried out, then at the end of it, the bulb first of all releases the peduncle, and then the leaves. On a well-fed healthy bulb there can be up to 3 flower arrows. On each of them grows several luxurious flowers of various colors, depending on the variety. Modern hybrids have huge flowers, up to 20 cm in diameter with gracefully curved stamens. It takes about 3 weeks from the appearance of the peduncle to complete dissolution. After the formation of the bud, it is recommended to lower the temperature of the content to increase the duration of flowering. Flower arrows do not appear simultaneously, but alternately, so the flowering period lasts about 2 months.

    After flowering

    After withering, the corollas are cut off. Peduncles try to keep as long as possible - when they dry out, they give nutrients to the bulb. After complete drying, the arrow is easily unscrewed.

    At this time, the plant needs to create optimal conditions: light, heat, top dressing, watering. It is necessary to increase the green mass and keep it until the end of summer. During the growing season, the bulb will restore the size lost during flowering, and even increase it. At the end of summer or early autumn, watering is gradually stopped, the plant is moved to a cooler room and the leaves are waiting for the leaves to fade.

    Important: In no case should you cut the leaves! They are also a source of nutrients for the bulb, so you need to wait for them to die off naturally.

    During the dormant period, the bulb is kept without moisture in a cool, dark place. The rest period lasts at least 2 months. This period can be increased if you need to achieve flowering by a certain date. To resume vegetation, the bulb in the substrate is placed in a warm place, preferably dark. After the appearance of the peduncle, they are exposed to light.

    Diseases and pests of a flower

    Hippeastrum scourge - fungal and viral diseases. Very often, the purchased bulb is infected with a red burn. Sometimes it is possible to cope with the disease by removing the covering scales and drying the bulbs well. But usually periodic etching in a solution of foundationol with further drying is required. Another sign of plant disease is reddish specks on the leaves. These leaves must be removed, no matter how necessary they are for the growing season. Mottling should not be confused with a uniform slight redness of the leaves - it is found in varieties with a red color of the corollas.

    Currently, natural types of garden hippeastrums are practically not found on sale, because. they are expensive and not as decorative as hybrids.

    • G. Papiyo orchid - flowers are very similar to exotic butterflies and white-red orchids;
    • G. Lemon-Lime - white-yellow-green flower with a diameter of approx. 20 cm, easily produces baby bulbs;
    • G. Dancing Queen - orange stripes on a white background of a large double flower;
    • G. Double Record - terry variegated multi-flowered variety;
    • D. Charisma - red edges fading to a creamy white center petal, very impressive variety, 3 flowers per arrow;
    • And, of course, numerous pink-white hippeastrums, including the famous G. Rosalia, are the largest and most multi-flowered. Huge variety and indescribable beauty!

    Note to flower growers

    • Often hippeastrums are called amaryllis. But they are completely different plants. Amaryllis is a natural species from Africa with a non-hollow stem, very expensive and very rare, they are practically not available on the free market. Hippeastrums have a hollow stem and are overwhelmingly inexpensive industrial hybrids.
    • It takes about a month from the exit of the flower arrow to the beginning of flowering. Knowing this, it is easy to calculate the date of bookmarking for the dormant period and the resumption of vegetation in order to achieve flowering of the hippeastrum by a certain date.
    • For a bouquet, flowers are cut in the stage of a colored bud. They put it in cold tap water - bleach prevents the stem from rotting, the flower is well preserved for a long time if the vase is far from the heat source.

    Answers to frequently asked questions

    All bulbs can live and bloom for many years. But preventive treatment for red burns and protection against viruses is necessary. In any case, each bulb is renewed by children.

    Can this plant be kept at home?

    Modern hybrids are not adapted to life in the open field in our latitudes, so they are successfully grown at home.

    Is hippeastrum poisonous?

    Poisonous juice of bulbs and leaves. When working with undamaged surfaces is not dangerous.

    Why does the hippeastrum not bloom?

    Perhaps the plant is still young. Blooms for 3 - 5 years.

    Another reason is non-observance of the seasonality of the life cycle, the absence of a dormant period. It is necessary to adjust the change of active growth and rest.

    Why do leaves turn yellow?

    The leaves turn yellow and gradually die off before the start of the dormant period. This is a natural and very useful process - the more leaves on the plant, the more nutrition they will give to the bulb when it dries.

    How to care for a plant in winter?

    Depending on the period - growth or rest - provide appropriate care. Very often, flower growers regulate the periods of life of a plant in such a way that the plant blooms in winter.

    Hippeastrums are a wonderful decoration for a house, garden, balcony, as well as a beautiful gift flower. Affordable price and bright flowering are its main advantages.

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