Half girths (we divide girth measurements in half and get half girths):
Rice. 1
Ssh - half neck circumference
Сг1 - half chest circumference first
Сr2 - half chest circumference second
Сг3 - half chest circumference third
St - half waist circumference
Sat - half hip circumference
Lengths:
Rice. 2
Di - product length
DP - shoulder length
Lts - back length to waist
Accident - shelf length to waist
Rice. 3
Widths:
Shp - shoulder width
Shg - chest width
Shs - back width
Rice. 4
Heights:
Vpkg - shoulder height oblique chest 
Rice. 5
Vpks - shoulder height oblique back
Rice. 6
Vg - chest height
We take measurements from the figure according to Figures 1−4. When taking measurements of the chest, waist, and hips, you need to pay special attention to the fact that the measuring tape should be positioned strictly horizontally at the narrowest/widest point (depending on the measurement). When removing the girths, you do not need to tighten the tape, as this may lead to narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and front, as well as determine the designed line of the shoulder seam.
Increases in looseness of fit
The increases depend on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when constructing. For example, we will take average values. We also need to take into account that we use increments to build half of the product.For an example of how to build a dress, we will take size 48 (this is size 96.0 cm across the chest) for height 164.
Measurements:
Sh = 18.5 cmСг1 =45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat =52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Accident = 44.4 cm
Shp = 13.3 cm
W = 17.3 cm
Shs = 18.3 cm
Vpx =43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Bg = 27.5 cm
Increases:
Pg = 6.0 cmFri = 3.0 cm
Pb = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr = 4.9 cm
Pdts = 0.5 cm
Pdtp = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Pspr = 2.0 cm
Calculation for creating a mesh:
Mesh width (A0a1) = Cr3+Pg=48.0+6.0= 54.0 cmBack width (A0a) = Shs+Pshs=18.3+0.8=19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2)= Шг+(Сг2-Сг1)+Пшп=17.3+(50.4−45.9)+0.3=22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2)= Shpr=Shset-(Shsp+Shpol)= 54.0-(19.1+22.1)=12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) = Vprz + Pspr 0.5*Pdts =21.5+2.0+0.5*0.5 = 23.8 cm
Waist line position (A0T) = Dts+Pdts = 42.9+0.5 cm = 43.4 cm
Hip line position (A0B) = Dts/2−2 = 42.9/2−2 = 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A"H1) = Di + Dts = 90.0 + 0.5 cm = 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be set aside after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will set aside the length of the product from point A1.
Meshing
Step 1
Rice. 7
The first construction point is point A0 and from it we set the width of the grid to the right - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.
To the right of point A0 on line A0a1 we set aside the width of the backrest and get point a.
To the left of point a1 on line A0a1 we set aside the width of the shelf and get point a2.
Segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.
Down from point A0 we set aside the height of the mesh and put point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).
From point A0 downwards we plot the position of the chest line on line A0G and get point G.
Also, from point A0 on segment A0G, the position of the waist line is plotted and we obtain point T.
And we postpone the position of the hip line from point T on the segment A0G and get point B.
From point a1 down we also set off the height of the grid and get point H3. We close the rectangle.
From points G, T and B we draw horizontal lines and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with line a1H3.
In turn, from points a and a2 we lower the vertical to the chest line GG3 and get points G1 and G4.
The first and important stage of creating a mesh should look like shown in Fig. 7.
Drawing the backrest
Step 2
Rice. 8
From point A0 we put it to the left on a line of 0.5 cm - this is the outlet of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0".
From point A0" down along the line A0H we plot the level of the shoulder blades, which is 0.4*Dts = 0.4*42.9 = 17.2 cm and we get point Y. We connect point Y to point A0" with a time line.
We build the depth of the neck of the back A0"A = A2A1 = 7.2/3 = 2.4 down from point A0" on the line A0"U. We complete the rectangle and draw the line of the neck of the back with a pattern curve.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 8.
Step 3
Rice. 9
From point T to the left on the waist line TT3 we set aside a tap along the waist line = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.
To construct the middle seam of the back, we put off a bend from point H to the right equal to the bend along the waist line of 1.5 cm and get point H1. We draw the middle back seam through points A-U-T1-H1.
From the neck of the back, along the middle seam, we put the length of the back down and get point H (the correct length).
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 9.
Step 4
Rice. 10
We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Шп + tuck opening = 13.3+2.0 = 15.3 cm, where the dart opening is equal to 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 equal to Vpk+ Pvpk, where Ppvk = Pdts + Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in this case = 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 = 43.7 cm.
At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1 we place point P1.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 10.
Step 5
Rice. eleven
We begin the construction of the shoulder dart by determining the position of the dart along the shoulder seam. The dart should be located 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 = 4.4 - 3.3, let's take the value 4.0 cm.
When constructing the shoulder seam, we took the tuck opening = 2.0 cm. We put point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 in increments of 2.0 cm. Next, from points I1 and I2 we draw a radius equal to 7.0 cm and get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to increase the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.
We connect the sides of the darts with the neck points A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular; we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. eleven.
Step 6
Rice. 12
We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of line P1G1 - the length of this section is 18.9 cm. To build point P3 = 18.9/3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm. We set point P3 from point G1 from the chest line to segment G1a1.
From the corner G1 of the armhole we draw a bisector with length = Шр*0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8*0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.
Auxiliary point G2 is located in the middle of the armhole width, i.e. Шр/2 = 12.8/2 = 6.4 cm.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 12.
Step 7
Rice. 13
The back armhole line is drawn with a smooth line, while point P2 should have a right angle.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 13.
Building a drawing of a shelf
Step 8
Fig.14
To construct the chest center point, the distance G3G4/2 - 1.0 = 22.½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from point G3 to the right and we get point G6.
For products of the dress group, we draw up a descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we put 0.5 cm down from point T3 and get point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of G3G6.
To construct the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh/3 + Pshgor = 18.5/3 + 1.0 = 7.2 cm, we move from point A3 to the left horizontally and get point A4. We calculate the depth of the neck using the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and draw a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and get the neck point A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make serifs and get an auxiliary point A3" from which we draw the arc of the neck of the shelf.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 14.
Step 9
Fig.15
The position of the highest point of the mammary glands is set aside from point A4 with a radius equal to Br = 27.5 cm and we obtain point G7.
At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the chest height from point G7 and the radius of the dart opening from point A4, we find point A9.
We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and get a chest dart for the front.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 15.
Step 10
Rice. 16
To determine the auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of point P4 on the segment a2G4. To do this, the distance P1G1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm = 18.9 - 1.0 = 17.9 cm, we get the distance P4G4. Next, this distance G4P4/3 = 6.0 cm and we put this distance from point G4 up and get point P6.
Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.
We draw a shoulder line through points A9P5.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 16.
Step 11
Fig.17
To construct the armhole of the shelf, draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.
From corner G4 to construct the armhole we draw a bisector Шр*0.2 = 12.8*0.2 = 2.6 cm.
Through points P5 - P6 - G2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 17.
Construction of lateral lines
Step 12
Rice. 18
We will start constructing the side lines along the chest line from point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. From point G4 downwards we draw a vertical line, this is the center line of the side seam.
At the intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.
To design the side seam, take 0.4*R-r outt waist = 0.4*11.5 = 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete dart solution in the side seam. To do this, 4.6/2 = 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from point T2. And we get points T21 and T22.
Next, we calculate the expansion along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 = (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 = 2.0 cm. We also divide it in half 2/2 = 1.0 cm, in order postpone the expansion along the hips on both sides of point B2. And we get points B21 and B22.
In this example of construction, we will leave the dress with a straight silhouette at the bottom, so along the hem line along the side seam we set aside the same values as along the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.
Through points G4-T21-B22-H22 and G4-T22-B21-H21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the front and back.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 18.
Step 13
Rice. 19
To construct a dart along the back waist line, we determine the position of the dart along the waist line on the back, for this, the distance T1T21/2 = 21.8/2 = 10.9 cm and get point T4.
Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the waist line (R-r out waist - R-r out waist side) * 0.55 = (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 = 3.8 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.8/2 =1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.
The height of the dart from the waistline up and down is 15.0 cm - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 19.
Step 14
Rice. 20
To construct a dart along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf; to do this, down from the waist line from point T6, we lower the vertical to the hip line - we get point T5.
Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the waist line R-r out waist - R-r out waist side-R-r out sp = 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 = 3.1 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3, ½ = 1.55 and set aside from point T5 and get points T51 and T52.
The height of the dart from the waistline up and down is the same as on the back, 15.0 cm - we get points K3 and K4.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 20.
Step 15
Rice. 21
To build relief lines, it is necessary to transfer part of the chest dart of the front. To do this, with a notch equal to the distance from the neckline to the back dart = 4.0 cm, set aside 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.
We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the transfer radius of the chest dart = 26.3 cm.
Now from point A4 we set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 = 4.0 cm, put the first notch, and from point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, we make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii we obtain point A8. Then we connect points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get a shoulder line to the shelf relief line and a section of the shelf relief.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 21.
Step 16
Rice. 22
To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the line of the center of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.
We lower the lines of the reliefs of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get points H4 and H5, respectively.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 22.
Rice. 23
The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look as shown in Fig. 23.
Step 17
Rice. 24
Next, you need to transfer the main parts of the shelf, the side of the front, the back and the side of the back onto tracing paper and add seam allowances.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 24.
If these are your first steps in design, then the design needs to be checked, that is, sew the dress from mock-up fabric and try it on to be sure that there are no errors in calculations and construction.
Also, after construction, it is necessary to add details of the facings of the neckline and armholes of the back and front. And also, if desired, decorative elements - yokes, flounces, piping, etc.
Photo: website
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
Material prepared by Anna Soboleva
It is a dress that can make you more feminine and beautiful, convey your romantic or sensual mood, highlight the advantages of your figure and hide flaws, and visually make your figure slimmer. A dress can save you in a situation where you don’t have time to match a blouse to a skirt or trousers, a jacket, etc. Thanks to the variety of styles, you can use the dress to create a variety of looks: from business to sexy. The main thing is to choose the right dress style for your figure.
MODELING A DRESS FOR A TRIANGLE (PEAR) FIGURE TYPE
The pear-type figure is very feminine, but sometimes brings the owner some difficulties when choosing a ready-made dress due to the difference in the circumference of the hips and chest. Don't be upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neck, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrasting inserts running along the dress and visually modeling the figure, as well as a little high waist, heels and tights that match your shoes will make you look slimmer. We try to avoid decor in the hip area, patch pockets, draperies, transverse stripes and large prints.
For a modeling example, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on a base pattern with an adjacent silhouette. The style is interesting because the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate the lower type of female figure in the best possible way. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help visually hide the width of the hips, and a white, widening silhouette will bring a slimmer silhouette to the fore. But here you can’t go overboard with excessively narrowing the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to widen the skirt a little towards the bottom.
Modeling. On the back and front pattern pieces, draw model relief lines running from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts; on the back, transfer part of the solution to the midline of the back, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest dart at the armhole. All that remains is to mark the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the waist and hip circumferences is large and the openings of the darts for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the dart needs to be divided into two, otherwise unsightly creases will appear in the finished product in the waist area.
In the second modeling option, we suggest widening the skirt towards the bottom, making it a so-called A-shaped silhouette, you can also make the dress cut off at the waist.
Modeling a dress for the “Inverted Triangle” body type
Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. All the decor, bright prints are down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, here raglan sleeves will help us, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a dress with a strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear full, wide skirts, peplum skirts or trousers, straight-cut dresses, but not too voluminous or wide, with vertical seams or trim.
It is a dress that can make you more feminine and beautiful, convey your romantic or sensual mood, highlight the advantages of your figure and hide flaws, and visually make your figure slimmer. A dress can save you in a situation where you don’t have time to match a blouse to a skirt or trousers, a jacket, etc. Thanks to the variety of styles, you can use a dress to create a variety of looks: from business to sexy. The main thing is to choose the right dress style for your figure. MODELING A DRESS FOR A TRIANGLE (PEAR) FIGURE TYPE
The pear-type figure is very feminine, but sometimes brings the owner some difficulties when choosing a ready-made dress due to the difference in the circumference of the hips and chest. Don't be upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neck, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrasting inserts running along the dress and visually modeling the figure, as well as a little high waist, heels and tights that match your shoes will make you look slimmer. We try to avoid decor in the hip area, patch pockets, draperies, transverse stripes and large prints. 
For modeling example, we will choose a simple sheath dress created by on a pattern-based adjacent silhouette. The style is interesting because the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate the lower type of female figure in the best possible way. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help visually hide the width of the hips, and a white, widening silhouette will bring a slimmer silhouette to the fore. But here you can’t go overboard with excessively narrowing the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to widen the skirt a little towards the bottom.
Modeling. On the back and front pattern pieces, draw model relief lines running from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts; on the back, transfer part of the solution to the midline of the back, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest dart at the armhole. All that remains is to mark the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the waist and hip circumferences is large and the openings of the darts for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the dart needs to be divided into two, otherwise unsightly creases will appear in the finished product in the waist area. 
In the second modeling option, we suggest widening the skirt towards the bottom, making it a so-called A-shaped silhouette, you can also make the dress cut off at the waist. 
Modeling a dress for the “Inverted Triangle” body type
Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. All the decor, bright prints are down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, here raglan sleeves will help us, or the absence of sleeves - all in summer clothes, a dress with a strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become magic wand and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear full, wide skirts, peplum skirts or trousers, straight-cut dresses, but not too voluminous or wide, with vertical seams or trim. 
As an example, let’s look at modeling a pattern for a simple dress suitable for a given body type. The model has a fitted sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut along the waistline, there are two opposing folds on the front panel of the skirt, and a slit on the back panel of the skirt. 
Let's start modeling by applying relief lines to the details of the back and front of the basic pattern of the adjacent silhouette (if you want a greater fit or the fabric chosen is knitted, you can use base pattern adjacent silhouette). We will arrange the thallium darts on the front panel of the skirt into folds - cut the skirt part from the end of the darts vertically downwards, move the parts apart so that in the upper part we get a gap approximately equal to 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom we will keep the volume of the skirt in its original form. 
Modeling a dress for an hourglass figure type
The hourglass figure type is the most feminine; it is the one that is rightfully considered a role model and we try to bring our figure closer to it, at least with the help of clothing. Lucky women are those who have this type of body type. The main advice is to focus on the waist, this way you will further emphasize your femininity and sexuality. Neckline, bows, pencil skirts, stilettos - this is your win-win look. 
Let's model such a simple dress in two versions.
The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very impressive. For modeling we will need a pattern for the base of the adjacent silhouette and a sleeve pattern. The dress is cut at the waist, the skirt is widened towards the bottom. The darts to fit the chest are transferred to the neckline: in the first version, the darts from the neckline are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version, the darts on the chest are distributed in folds extending from the neckline, there are no sleeves.
Modeling. Step 1 - on the back detail, the dart for the roundness of the shoulder can be neglected, because The neckline of the back is quite deep and wide, but the amount of opening must be removed from the length of the shoulder so as not to upset the balance. For ease of modeling, we will transfer the dart on the shelf into an armhole. We cut the skirt pattern pieces lengthwise from the darts down. 
Next, step 2 of modeling. Let's outline a new neckline according to the sketch. We will transfer the thallium dart on the shelf to the neckline, and we will also transfer the dart from the armhole there. When designing a cut-off adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the shelf part should be lowered at the waist by 1 cm, this will give a better fit and prevent it from being pulled up in the finished form. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern obtained after cutting the skirt parts, so that the darts open towards the bottom. Let's adjust the side cuts and bottom of the product. 
Sleeve modeling. First, shorten the length to the required length. Using vertical cuts running from the hem to the bottom of the part, and subsequent sliding apart of the pattern parts, design a counter fold. 
In the second version of the dress, the darts on the front are translated into folds extending from the neckline. We will consider modeling below. 
Dress modeling for Oval (apple) body type
Oval (apple) figure. In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter “o”. A strategy in choosing the right clothes would be to emphasize and accentuate the waist, this can be done by choosing a dress that is slightly wider towards the bottom, as well as using belts, decorative inserts that make the waist visually narrower; the top of the dress should be slightly widened, for example using a V-shaped neckline, collars . Sheath dresses, wrap dresses, low waist dresses, and A-line dresses will suit you. 
As an example, let's look at this dress. It is interesting because it has a contrasting decorative line running along the dress. Visually, it greatly elongates the silhouette and makes you slimmer. In addition, the dress is loose at the waist and slightly widens towards the bottom, which is undoubtedly a plus for this type of figure. Clear cut lines and a choice of fabric that holds its shape create the desired look and collect the entire figure. To simulate this model we will use the basic base pattern close-fitting silhouette for a better fit. 
Modeling. We straighten the side cuts of the parts, because The dress has a straight, loose silhouette. Transfer the dart on the bulge of the chest to the side seam and mark the relief line. Shorten the sleeve detail pattern just above the elbow. 
In the received details we will outline the front yoke and cut it off. 
Modeling a dress for a Rectangle body type
Female figure of the rectangle type. For modern models it is the most typical. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, there are usually no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! That's where our modeling tips and patterns come in handy! Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Merlin Mo 
nro or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself are what we strive for.
We chose just the right dress for the modeling lesson. We will need a pattern this time with a straight silhouette. The dress is sleeveless, loose-fitting with a counter pleat running from the neckline downwards, secured at the bottom to give the product an oval silhouette. Pockets can be made in the side seams. 
Modeling takes place on the basic pattern of a dress with a straight silhouette, without darts. To begin with, let's get rid of the dart on the back, on the shelf we will add the depth of the fold, setting aside a distance of 12-15 cm from the middle of the part. Please note that at the top of the dress there is one counter fold, at the bottom there are two of them - one-sided, the depths are laid towards the side ones seams. The lines of the side seams are designed in such a way as to create an oval silhouette. This model should be long above the knee, otherwise there may be excessive narrowing at the bottom. 
Well, our lesson has come to an end, we learned how to create simple dress patterns based on a basic pattern, ones that beginners can handle modeling and sewing, and we talked about body types. I think now you can please yourself with a new thing. Good luck and creative mood!
Save so you don't lose
23:36 Unknown 69 Comments
Hello, dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes with complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template from which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, I would recommend the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, pattern making will help you quickly understand and master the principles of clothing design. In addition, the pattern is made according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on your figure; ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And lastly, pattern making is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress using Tatyana Roslyakova’s method.
In the last article, we learned how to take measurements that we will need for a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the design drawing is made only for half of the figure, so measurements of volume and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I have written my measurements as an example. Using these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Half neck circumference (Ssh) | |
Half chest circumference (Сг) | 40,5 |
Half waist (St) | |
Half hip circumference (Sb) | 44.5 |
Back length to waist (Lts) | |
Back Width (Shs) | 16,5 |
Front length to waist (Dtp) | |
Chest Height (Vg) | |
Center of the chest (CG) | |
Shoulder Length (Dp) | |
Product length (Di) |
In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for loose fit (FO). These increases are added to almost all measurements when drawing a structure; they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for a loose fit varies in size. The allowances also differ for styles of clothing (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for creating patterns indicate different increases for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the method. But for now we are learning to build the basis of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: fitted and semi-fitted with the following increases:
Please note that the increases shown in the table are added entirely to half measurements. That is, if the chest girth measurement is 81 cm, then the half chest girth = 40.5 cm; for a close-fitting silhouette, an increase in loose fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, this means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm larger. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the pattern pieces in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
Armhole width - 50%.
distribution of increase along the chest line
I will indicate all allowances for loose fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when creating the pattern. In this article we will build a dress with a fitted silhouette.Let's start with the drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm greater than the length of the future dress. If you have never made patterns before, I would advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, which can be purchased at an office supply store. It's a pleasure to draw on this paper! The drawings are accurate and smooth. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at point P, departing 5 cm from the top edge. From point P down in a straight line we put aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put a point H (segment PH = Di = 85 cm).
- the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13.5 x 0.25 = 3.4 cm),
- side tuck opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
- back tuck opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.3 = 4.1 cm)
Shelf
- front part of the product
Neck
- neckline
Armhole
- cutout for sleeves (cut from shoulder to side seams to connect sleeves to bodice)
Dart
- excess fabric tucked into the seam. Using darts, the necessary shapes are given to the product.
In addition to the dress, you can create a pattern for a single-seam set-in sleeve.
Admin 2015-06-15 at 4:37 am
Greetings, friends. I have one video course on sewing a dress. But there are no patterns in the course itself. I made a mistake. I didn't think so.
I’m filling a gap in my work and now I’ll tell you how to get exactly the dress shown in the photo above from a simple basic pattern of a dress with a sleeve. And we will model the dress based on the base. The base is the basic pattern. Without modeling on the base, you can sew a dress - a sheath, for example.
By the way, if you don’t already have a course on sewing such a dress (it’s free, by the way), then get it.
Our sheath dress is fitted and the darts at the waist will be left in place. My basic hip-length dress pattern is to save on printed sheets. Therefore, the first step in modeling will be to fill the missing length of the base of the dress and eliminate the excess length in the sleeve.
The second thing I always try to do is to discard everything unnecessary along the contours of the pattern - that is, along the neckline.
Here we’ll simply widen our neckline along the shoulder seams by 1.5 cm and deepen it in the center of the front by 4.5-7 cm, in the center of the back by 1 cm.
The front cutout was designed like this: two auxiliary lines were drawn at an angle of almost 90 degrees to each other and the corner was rounded. See for yourself how beautiful it will seem to you.
Changing the neck
And we sharpen the shape of the pattern contour with a careless stroke - we narrow the skirt by 2.5 cm on each side of the side seam. For panache. At this point I’ll slow down a little and tell you one case.
I once narrowed my client’s skirt so that it was too small for her. I reasoned simply: well, I’ll draw a new tapering line from the hip line to the bottom of the skirt. After all, the hip circumference will not be affected, which means that everything will be okay with the size. But it didn't turn out okay. The skirt became narrow, although everything was according to the client’s standards.
I sat down to think. I figured it out - I usually marked the hip level line on the side seam, as usual, 19.6 cm down from the waist line - with average height. And she narrowed it from this point. But I didn’t take into account the protrusion of the buttocks. And the most protruding point of the buttocks from the waist line sometimes reaches 20 cm.
And these protrusions did not fit into my narrowing. Conclusion - now I will narrow the skirt along the side seam not from the hip line, but from the line of the most protruding point of the buttocks.
We draw the narrowing to the bottom line with a smooth line, trying to create a right angle between the side seam and the bottom line.
narrow the bottom of the skirt
Well, that’s it, we’ve put the basic shapes of the pattern in order, now let’s move the chest dart from the shoulder seam to the side seam.
converting the chest dart
Let's design a cut-off yoke for the front and back of the dress.
The main point that we will rely on when constructing this yoke is the line of the base of the chest. You can measure it on a figure like this:
along the front from the waist line up - to a point under the base of the breast gland and, setting aside this distance on the pattern, draw a line perpendicular to the center of the front.
From the resulting line down, set aside the width of the yoke - 6 cm and draw a second line parallel to the first.
designing a cut-off bodice yoke
Now let’s boldly dissect the pattern along the outlined lines of the yoke. We made the front and back yokes in two parts:
cut the pattern
We connect them along the lines of the waist darts and adjust the lines with smooth bends:
adjusting the yoke
The pattern is ready. Received pattern parts:
Shelf bodice - 1 piece with fold
Shelf yoke - 1 piece with fold
Front skirt - 1 piece with fold
Back bodice - 2 parts
Back yoke - 2 parts
Back skirt - 2 parts
Sleeves - 2 parts
Additional detail: facing of the front and back neck. It is cut out after fitting, repeats the shape of the neckline and is 4.5 cm wide when finished.
You can see how to cut this dress right now or right later, when it is convenient for you. Course excerpts:
Review of materials:
Layout and cutting of dress details:
How to eliminate some artifacts on the surface of the product that appeared against the will of the creator of the dress?
As one thinker said: “That which exists but cannot be explained”?
I'm talking about "bubbles" of fabric in the hip area - along the side seams. And in the area of the tops of the darts. Traditionally, there are no other ways other than the elementary way of arguing. These are not cutting defects, this is a feature of the behavior of the fabric. The operation of ironing and OBE is also included in the free course that I mentioned above.
If you want to sew without fitting, get an accurate pattern for a figure with any individual characteristics, then you can’t do without the precision cutting technique:
artifacts in the fit of the product
Riddle: The image below shows a sun skirt. The pattern runs along the edge of the hem. Embroidery? Printed design? Or something else?
And that’s all I have for today.
