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Shampoo composition. Surfactants (surfactants). Harm from shampoo.

Shampoo was invented in 1903 by German chemist Hans Schwarzkopf. At first, his invention caused a lot of talk, but literally a few years later the whole of Germany was washing itself with shampoo. Nowadays, we can no longer imagine our daily hygiene without shampoo. So what is shampoo? What is its composition? Is shampoo harmful or beneficial for our body? presents to you for study the materials he has collected on this issue.

Most people evaluate shampoo on the basis of "good foaming - bad foaming." Therefore, it is not surprising that the cosmetics market is flooded with low-quality and often hazardous products. How to find something that will not harm your beauty or health.

First of all, buy products in trusted stores. Secondly, pay attention to the composition of the product.

Shampoo composition

The main component of shampoo is water, in which various chemical components are dissolved - foaming agents, preservatives, flavors, thickeners, stabilizers, dyes, etc.

The manufacturer is required to indicate all the components included in the shampoo on the label, and in the list they are arranged in descending order of their quantity in the shampoo. For example, water (approximately 80% of the composition) and foaming agents are usually listed in first place, and plant extracts in last place.

Surfactants (surfactants)

Surfactants (surfactants) are foaming agents in shampoo. There are more harmful and less harmful surfactants. The most harmful:

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate

Sodium lauryl sulfate

Sodium Laureth Sulfate

These are the most dangerous of 884 skin and hair care ingredients. But they are the cheapest and most foaming products; they are even used for degreasing car engines and cleaning garage floors.

These surfactants are used in cheap shampoos. They cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes, contributing to the formation of such unpleasant diseases as dandruff and hair loss. There is evidence that cheap surfactants can cause cancer.

More expensive shampoos use surfactants with a more gentle effect:

Cocamide (TEA Layril Sulfate/TEA Laureth Sulfate)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Only surfactants with a gentle effect should be included in shampoos for children. When buying shampoo, you need to pay attention, first of all, to what surfactants are included in its composition!

Other substances included in the shampoo

The shampoo also contains other components, many of which help neutralize the effects of surfactants and care for the hair.

Sodium citrate, or sodium citric acid (Sodium Citrate)- a component that maintains the pH of the shampoo at the required level.

Glycol Distearate / Stearate- a substance that is added to shampoo to improve the appearance and consistency of the shampoo.

Polyquaternium / Quaternium- components that thicken the shampoo and condition the hair.

Dimethicone / Cyclomethicone- silicone oils that coat and smooth the hair cuticles, thicken the hair, remove static electricity, add shine to the hair, and make combing easier.

Panthenol- Vitamin B, which is a strong moisturizer and adds shine to hair.

Alcohol cetyl (Cetyl) / oleyl (Oleyl) / stearyl (Stearyl)- hydrated alcohols, promote easy combing of hair.

Natural oils (walnut oil, shea butter, castor oil, burdock oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil)- natural hair moisturizing oils.

Ascorbic Acid / Citric Acid- moisturize hair and add shine to it.

Octyl Salicylate / PABA- sun protection components, preserve the color of dyed hair.

Fragrances, flavors- used to add a pleasant scent to shampoo

Preservatives- increase the shelf life of shampoo

After you have decided on the choice of shampoo, try placing a drop of this shampoo on your wrist before washing your hair, wash it and leave it on the skin for 15-20 minutes. If there is no allergic reaction, you can start washing your hair.

To begin with, we note that the lipid barrier of our skin has a slightly negative charge.
When any surfactant interacts with the epidermis, there is a “swelling” of the stratum corneum and an increase in its permeability to active components. At the same time, this process leads to disruption of the barrier functions of the epidermis. The mechanism of this action is associated with the effect of surfactants on skin lipids.
The irritating effect of surfactants is due to the destruction of proteins and inactivation of enzymes. As a result, the skin feels dry, irritated and red.

Anionic, negatively charged surfactants weakly interact with the surface of the skin (minus and minus, as is known, repel). Therefore, anionic surfactants are dermatologically quite safe for human skin.
Anionic surfactants include sodium lauryl sulfate, ethoxylated sodium, magnesium and ammonium lauryl sulfate, sulfated castor oil - “Turkish red oil”, sodium dodecyl sulfate, TEA Layril Sulfate (TEA lauryl sulfate), TEA Laureth Sulfate (TEA laureth sulfate).

The mechanism of action of anionic detergents is interesting.
The molecule of anionic surfactants contains a water-soluble (hydrophilic) part, which is negatively charged, and a fat-soluble (hydrophobic) part, which is neutral. The fat-soluble part of the molecule binds and envelops dirt particles and sebaceous gland secretions. The water-soluble part of the molecule is oriented away from the hair, which carries a negative charge, as a result of which dirt particles connected to the surfactant are rejected by the hair, dissolved in water and removed.

Cationic, positively charged surfactants form stronger bonds with negatively charged functional groups of proteins, lipids, phospholipids and other compounds of the human lipid biolayer (minus and plus, as is known, attract). Cationic surfactants are used less frequently in cosmetics and mainly in water-rinsed cosmetic products.

Nowadays the demand and need for mild cleansers is increasing, and the requirements for a clean environment are also increasing. All this encourages the search for biodegradable surfactants that are harmless to nature and safely cleanse the human body.

Non-ionic surfactants have less irritating properties.
Non-ionic surfactants include mono and diglyceric fatty acids - often oleic, linoleic, alkyl glycoside (cocoglycoside).

Amphoteric surfactants (capable of carrying both positive and negative charges) have the mildest dermatological effect. They can be used to wash even the smallest children.
Representatives of amphoteric surfactants such as betaines are more often found in detergent compositions.
The first to appear on the market were cocamidopropyl betaine and lauryl sulfobetaine, and later the more effective cocoamphoacetate and cocoamphodiacetate, amidobetaine. The raw materials for the production of such amphoteric surfactants are fatty acids from coconut, sunflower, soybean and rapeseed oils.

In modern cosmetology, combinations of various surfactants are used. In many cases, even small additions of a mild surfactant can cause a very significant improvement in the dermatological properties of the compositions. Some amphoteric surfactants extremely strongly reduce skin irritation caused by contact with anionic surfactants.

The safest surfactants contained in “natural” (organic) cosmetics include:
Decyl Glucoside is a non-ionic surfactant of plant origin, thickener. Used as an additive or co-surfactant in cosmetic cleansers.
Lauryl Glucoside is a surfactant, a foaming element in detergents. Obtained through the process of rectification of fats. Mild surfactant for intimate hygiene products and baby shampoos, gels, bath foam. Increases viscosity. Synthesized from natural raw materials such as coconut oil and glucose.
Sodium Palmate - sodium palmate. Obtained by alkaline hydrolysis of palm oil.
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine is a fatty acid from coconut oil.
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate is an amphoteric surfactant, a surfactant that enhances foaming and has a mild cleansing effect. An aqueous solution of an amphoteric surfactant obtained from coconut oil fatty acids.
Decyl Polyglucose surfactant - natural from corn starch, wheat grain and coconut
Zea Mays (CORN) - corn silk
Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate
Vegetable Decyl Glucoside is a natural cleansing combination (surfactant) of fatty acids from coconut oil and sugars (or carbohydrates) from sugar cane.
Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein - surfactant obtained from olive oil and wheat

Conditionally safe surfactants (during research it was revealed that a substance in high concentration can have an adverse effect on the health of animals (liver; reproductive function; central nervous system; irritation of the skin, mucous membranes)) contained in “natural” (organic) cosmetics include:
Cocos Nucifera (COCONUT) oil - coconut oil
Palmitic Acid - palmitic acid
Sodium Stearate - sodium salt of fatty acid
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate is an amphoteric gentle surfactant based on coconut oil.

Unsafe surfactants (in high concentrations, carcinogenic, toxic, irritating to the skin and mucous membranes). They have restrictions in use.
Cetrimonium Etrimonium Chloride is a quaternary ammonium salt used as an antiseptic and preservative.
Lauramide DEA is a semi-synthetic chemical used to form foam and thicken various cosmetic preparations. May dry out hair and skin, cause itching and allergic reactions.
PEG-150 Distearate is a polymer derived from ethylene oxide and fatty acids.

Now let's look at an example of a branded cosmetic product Bentley Organic.
Bentley Organic shower gels contain the following surfactants: Potassium Oleate (anionic surfactant), Potassium Cocoate (nonionic surfactant, the result of the interaction of coconut oil with alkali), Lauryl betaine (amphoteric surfactant, antistatic, has a slight conditioning effect), Decyl glucoside (nonionic Surfactant of plant origin, thickener).
Thus, Bentley Organic brand shower gels contain mild detergent components and can be used by people with sensitive skin.

Surfactants (surfactants) are widely used in cosmetics. Thanks to them, shampoos and shower gels cleanse the skin of dirt, and cosmetic emulsions remain stable and do not break down into an oily aqueous phase. Everything would be fine, but in addition to useful technical qualities, surfactants also have a downside - they can dry and irritate the skin.

1. Surfactants are emulsifiers and cleaning components

Emulsifiers are components that cannot be avoided if a manufacturer wants to create an emulsion consisting of oil and water. Without emulsifiers, it will separate into two phases, and this not only does not look aesthetically pleasing, but also creates a favorable environment for microbes that can settle at the boundary of the water and oil layers. In addition, the nature of the distribution of active components changes, which may even lose their activity.

The most powerful emulsifiers are surfactants (surfactants). Their main task is to break down dirt (fats) during laundry, hair washing, and skin washing. It is surfactants that form foam in cleansing products.

2. Surfactants cleanse skin and hair

Surfactants in soaps, shampoos, and shower gels are absorbed on the surface of contaminants (grease, dirt), embedded in them, crushed into small drops, thus facilitating the removal of these particles. The problem is that surfactants do not see the difference between “unnecessary fats” and the natural fatty lubricant of the skin. Therefore, any surfactant that “cleanses well” the skin can make it dry and irritated.

3. Surfactants can irritate the skin

When surfactants get on the skin, the cells of the stratum corneum of the epidermis swell and their permeability to active components increases. On the one hand, the more the stratum corneum swells, the better and faster it cleanses. But on the other hand, at high concentrations, surfactants can damage the lipids of the stratum corneum. In addition, the skin becomes permeable not only to beneficial components, but also to irritating ones - if they suddenly turn out to be part of the product.

4. Surfactants can be obtained from three sources

• vegetable raw materials (natural origin)
• from oil and gas (mineral origin)
• synthesize in the laboratory (synthetic origin)

5. There are different surfactants

Anionic surfactants– one of the most common cleansing components. Cleans well even in hard water. Sodium lauryl and laureth sulfates (SLS, SLES) fall into this category. Currently, the cosmetic industry uses new generation anionic surfactants that do not have the same drying effect as SLS. For example, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids.

Cationic surfactants– have a weak cleaning effect, but can irritate the skin more than anionic surfactants. Therefore, they are most often used as a softening additive and to remove static electricity in hair rinse products (Cetrimonium chloride, Quaternium-15)

Amphoteric surfactants– have a mild cleansing effect, reduce the aggressive effects of anionic surfactants, and improve foaming. From the group of amphoteric surfactants, betaine derivatives (cocoaminopropyl betaine) are most often used. Amphoteric surfactants are obtained from fatty acids of coconut, palm kernel, sunflower, soybean and rapeseed oils, as well as hydrolysates of collagen, keratin, elastin and other proteins.

Nonionic surfactants– have a mild irritant effect on the skin, they foam little, so they are often combined with anionic surfactants. They are used in shampoos and conditioners to make hair silky and soft. Nonionic surfactants have the most complete biodegradability (Glyceryl Laurate, Decyl Glucoside)

List of some mild surfactants that are used in natural cosmetics

Coco-Glucoside - Coconut glucoside
A soft foaming substance obtained from dried coconut meat and fruit sugar. Used as a foaming agent, conditioner and emulsifier. In hair products – smoothes the hair structure and adds volume. No side effects of coconut glucoside have been found; it can be used for any skin type and for children's cosmetics.

Lauryl Glucoside - Lauryl glycoside
It is synthesized from natural raw materials during the rectification of vegetable fats (coconut oil and glucose). In cosmetics it acts as an emulsifier, dispersant, natural foaming agent, and increases the viscosity of the consistency. It has a mild cleansing effect and is used in children's products and intimate hygiene products. In gels and creams it cleanses and softens the skin; in shampoos it provides a light conditioning effect and makes subsequent hair styling easier.

Sodium Cocoamphoacetate - Sodium cocoamphoacetate
A surfactant derived from the fatty acids of coconut oil (coconut acid). In cosmetology it is used as a foaming agent and has mild cleaning properties. Creates a pleasant consistency of the product. Typically used as a component for liquid cleansers, gels, and shampoos. In hair products – increases elasticity, improves the structure of damaged hair, and adds shine.

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate - Sodium glutamate cocoyl
A surfactant that is a compound of glutamic acid.
In cosmetology it is used as a foaming agent, mild detergent, and emulsifier. Often used in hair washes and shampoos, it creates a feeling of softness, moisturization of the skin, and has a conditioning effect.

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate - Sodium lauryl sarcosinate
Derived from sarcosine, a natural amino acid found in vegetables and fruits.
In cosmetics it is often used as a soft foaming agent, surfactant, and conditioner. A gentle cleanser that is safe for the skin, while at the same time effectively removing dirt, bacteria, and sebum. Does not irritate even sensitive skin. When used for hair care, it returns vitality and shine to it, carefully cleansing and improving its structure.

Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate - Lauryl glucoside carboxylase
A natural alternative to aggressive surfactants. A very soft natural foaming agent that creates a homogeneous consistency of the product, obtained by reacting coconut and palm oil with sugar and starch. In cosmetics, it is usually used in products for washing and cleansing the skin, and in hair shampoos. No negative or allergic reactions were detected when using this substance.

Sucrose Cocoate - Sucrose Cocoate
A natural substance obtained from the fatty acids of coconut oil and sucrose ester. The finished liquid has a viscous consistency and light yellow color, and has pronounced moisturizing and softening properties. Sucrose cocoate absorbs water and, when applied to the skin, maintains an optimal level of moisture in it.
Often used in cleansers (gels, foams, makeup remover milk) and moisturizers.

Sources:
“Fundamentals of cosmetic chemistry”, T. Puchkova
“New cosmetology”, A. Margolina, E. Hernandez

We have written and written on this topic more than once, when they ask for our observations about the effect of various detergent bases on their skin. I would like to write a combined article from those scattered materials and compile some kind of short guide that will help you choose your own shampoo/wash/shower gel. I will not repeat myself on the topic of how surfactants can affect health and beauty, I have already talked about this many times, I’m just collecting reference material on the topic in this post.

Of course, we should not forget that most often your body’s reaction to each specific surfactant may often differ from mine or the generally accepted one. I urge you to simply remember this information and not step on the same rake many, many times, read the composition each time and observe the skin’s reaction to each specific surfactant or their combination. Some of the information will be duplicated from the previous article in order to collect everything for convenience in one place.

In order to work out surfactants for yourself and find the most suitable one, I advise you to check it through http://www.goodguide.com/

This site has a large database of cosmetics and components; when you introduce a component, they will show you whether all safety tests have been passed, and in which cosmetic products this component is most often used.

Plus, on iherb.com you can enter the component you are interested in in the search bar and find out which products contain it.

If we talk about the most popular surfactants, you can make a small list, I will include in it everything that we tried and those that we liked, I will highlight in bold, and what I didn’t like is in italics: SLS (sodium laureth and lauryl sulfate), TEA laureth and lauryl sulfate, amonium laureth and lauryl sulfate, magnesium laureth sulfate, coco-glucoside, cocoamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, lauramidopropyl betaine, C12-14 olefin sulfonate.

Next we move on to the descriptions with my comments.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulfate or sodium coco-sulfate is an inexpensive detergent, anionic surfactant derived from coconut oil, widely used in cosmetic cleansers, shampoos, bath and shower gels, bath foamers, etc.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)- an ingredient similar in properties to SLS (an ester chain is added). The number one ingredient in cleansers and shampoos. It is very cheap and thickens when salt is added. Produces a lot of foam. Used as a wetting agent in the textile industry.

TEA Layril Sulfate (Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate)- Anionic surfactant of wide application, TEA (Triethanolamine), as well as others: Cocamide DEA, DEA-Cetyl phosphate, DEA Oleth-3 phosphate, Myristamide DEA, Stearamide MEA, Cocamide MEA, Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide MEA, Oleamide DEA, TEA-Lauryl Sulfate- Anionic surfactants are used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in cleansing lotions for facial skin, shampoos, body and bath lotions, soaps, etc. Ethanolamines irritate the eyes, skin and mucous membranes and cause dermatitis. Diethanolamine easily penetrates the skin and settles in various organs. Animal tests have shown that the substance may be toxic to the kidneys, liver, brain, spinal cord, bone marrow and skin. These substances are carcinogenic.

This group is considered a “higher quality” replacement for SLS; I’ve even seen them in natural settings (for example, Natura House). This may be true, but personally my head says the opposite, it gets irritated and loses hair.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate- synthetic detergent. Surface-active substance. Marked with a "Danger" sign.

These two ammoniums are simply death for many people, including my head. Example - shampoo JungleFever, which was once prescribed as a treatment for one of our clients (!!!), apply diluted to the scalp for half an hour(!!!). Despite the fact that the client thought “don’t you dare do this,” her soul believed and in two weeks she achieved terrible irritation with ulcers on the surface of her scalp, itching and loss of 150 hairs for each wash. It took me a month and a half to restore her head. Other examples on this basis are Loreal Elseve (I can’t say all or just some), Lush - some liquid shampoos, for example, Beer for Cynthia.

Magnesium Laureth Sulfate- a surfactant with cleansing properties. A mild surfactant, does not irritate the skin and eyes, and is widely used in intimate hygiene products.

We used a lot of products in it (for example, children's series of the First Solution or a scalp mask from Danielle Jouvans), it is really much softer than SLS, but many could not completely solve their problems with it, these are just the first steps towards recovery

Cocoamidopropyl Betaine- soft co-surfactant, compatible with anionic/cationic/non-ionic surfactants. Auxiliary surfactants include amphoteric, nonionic and cationic substances. They are necessary in shampoo formulations to increase the compatibility of basic (anionic) surfactants with skin and hair, increase foaming properties, regulate viscosity, and reduce the degreasing effect. Was voted in 2004 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society as a low-allergenic product. Some sources are marked with a “dangerous” sign, indicating that it irritates mucous membranes (for example, if it gets into the eyes)

This is the basis I trust. She made a series of Crown of Siberia shampoos, which performed excellently, did not cause a single hair to fall out during washing and treated the hair itself well.

Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine- found in all types of detergents, but I couldn’t find a clear description, and somehow I don’t remember it from my university.

Cocoamidopropyl Amine Oxide- Intended for use in the cosmetics industry in the production of shampoos, bath foams, as well as in the production of household chemicals, fire extinguishing agents, car cosmetics, technical detergents, etc. Tertiary amine oxides are nonionic surfactants with weakly cationic properties in acidic environments . The products are strong emulsifiers, foam formers and foam stabilizers, as well as a thickening component in alkaline, hypochlorite and acidic cleaning products, and are used as detergent and antistatic action activators.

C12-14 olefin sulfonate is a synthetic surfactant detergent often marketed as "derived from coconuts." It is used to cleanse skin and hair, and also as an emulsifier (emulsifiers help create emulsions based on liquids that do not mix normally, such as water and oil).

Lauramidopropyl Betaine- soft surfactant, compatible with other surfactants. It has good thickening and foaming characteristics. Recommended for use in shampoos, shower gels, liquid soaps, facial cleansers, and children's cosmetics.

The two above-mentioned surfactants are the basis of one of the tested shampoos - Giovanni, Magnetic Energizing Shampoo. Despite the fact that we didn’t find anything particularly flattering about these two components, they work great on my scalp, do not cause irritation, and this shampoo helped restore the balance of the scalp of that same client after JungleFever and reduce hair loss to 5-7 pieces.

Decyl Glucoside or decyl polyglucose- A mild non-ionic surfactant consisting of sugars (glucose) derived from corn starch and fatty acids (decanol - decyl alcohol) from coconut.

I also trust this detergent base. Firstly, I have experience with it, my hair does not fall out from shampoos based on it, and secondly, some Aubrey Organics shampoos contain it, and I trust this brand more than myself, one of the few.

Coco Glucoside- A soft foaming substance obtained from dried coconut pulp and fruit sugar. Used as a foaming agent, conditioner and emulsifier. Gives cosmetics foaming ability, imparts mild cleaning properties, helps dissolve dirt and sebum. This promotes better penetration of the moisturizing components contained in the product into the skin. In hair products – smoothes the hair structure and adds volume.

Everywhere they write that Coco-Glucoside is the most popular of the soft surfactants, it is true that when everyone started moving away from SLS, products with Coco-Glucoside appeared. As it turns out, for many it is even worse than SLS. Why dont know. Personally, I avoid it just like classic sulfates.

Lauryl Glucoside- Synthesized from natural raw materials in the process of rectification of vegetable fats (coconut oil and glucose). In cosmetics it acts as an emulsifier, dispersant, natural foaming agent, and increases the viscosity of the consistency. It has a mild cleansing effect and is used in children's products and intimate hygiene products. It has surfactant properties - it breaks down fats and impurities on the surface of the skin, after which they are easily removed from the skin or hair. In gels and creams it cleanses and softens the skin; in shampoos it provides a light conditioning effect and makes subsequent hair styling easier.

Paired with this surfactant, the Lavera shampoo with rose that I tested also contained coco-glucoside and sodium coco-sulfate (that is, SLS). Unfortunately, I have never seen it in its pure form anywhere and I cannot say for sure about its effect.

Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate- Lauryl glucoside carboxylase A natural alternative to aggressive surfactants. A very soft natural foaming agent that creates a homogeneous consistency of the product, obtained by reacting coconut and palm oil with sugar and starch. In cosmetics, it is usually used in products for washing and cleansing the skin, and in hair shampoos. No negative or allergic reactions were detected when using this substance.

This base is contained in some Giovanni shampoos, for example Smooth as silk, Tea Tree Triple Treat and 50:50, but everywhere it comes with the fourth or fifth (low concentration) surfactant in the set.

Sodium Myreth Sulfate and sodium myristyl ether sulfate- is a mixture of organic compounds used as a component of detergents with surface-active properties. Very similar to SLS. Moderately dangerous

I’ve seen this type of foundation in many shampoos, even from Iherb, I don’t think you should emulate it, I would advise you to avoid it.

Sodium cocopolyglucoside tartrate- I mostly saw it in dog shampoos

Sodium Cocoamphoacetate- An amphoteric surfactant, a surfactant that enhances foaming, has a mild cleansing effect in delicate shampoos and shower gels. An aqueous solution of an amphoteric surfactant obtained from coconut oil fatty acids. Highly pure amphoteric surfactant, compatible with anionic, cationic (conditioning and germicidal additives) and non-ionic ingredients, stable over a wide pH range. Main properties - good foaming ability, independent of the degree of water hardness and changes in pH; high efficiency even in the presence of overfatting cosmetic ingredients; excellent cleaning action. Recommended for use in combination with ethoxylated alkyl sulfates; in mild and non-irritating shampoos for children and adults, it creates a pleasant sensory sensation, makes it easier to style wet and dry hair and does not require a large amount of conditioning additives;

This base was also found in all shampoos from Giovanni and their 3-in-1 products, somewhere first on the list, somewhere third or fourth.

Sodium Cocoyl Taurate- Has good foaming characteristics, used as a soft anionic surfactant and dispersant in the production of toothpastes for sensitive teeth and oral care products. Characterized by high foaming ability. Used in liquid and creamy shampoos, shower preparations, and cleansing lotions. The presence of electrolytes does not have a significant effect on the stability of the foam, which led to the use of sodium taurates in toothpastes.

As stated in the description, this is mainly a surfactant for toothpastes and tooth powders, but some brands also make shampoos and washes based on it, for example MyChelle.

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate- A mild surfactant used in the formulations of mild facial cleansers, lotions, and creams. Does not leave a tightening effect after applying the cleanser to the skin.

We noticed this surfactant in Logona hair products, but there is practically nothing with this component on Iherb.

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate- A soft surfactant that forms a dense, stable foam. Features: Gentle on skin and eyes, excellent foaming agent in hard and soft water, biodegradable. Ideal for solid cleansing soaps and cloudy or pearlescent shampoos, shower gels and lotions. There is evidence that it cannot be considered safe, since more than half of the required toxicity tests were not carried out.

The closest example is Jason anti-dandruff shampoo. He didn’t wash my hair; he refused to wash it out of my hair and caused itching. I suspect that it is too soft to be a stand-alone base in a shampoo. Herb uses this surfactant mainly for body scrubs and bath foams.

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate- Sodium glutamate cocoyl A surfactant that is a compound of glutamic acid. In cosmetology it is used as a foaming agent, mild detergent, and emulsifier. Has antioxidant properties. Often used in hair washes and shampoos, it creates a feeling of softness, moisturization of the skin, and has a conditioning effect.

Found in many Logona shampoos as an addition to coco-glucoside.

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate- Sodium lauryl sarcosinate. Derived from sarcosine, a natural amino acid found in vegetables and fruits. In cosmetics it is often used as a soft foaming agent, surfactant, and conditioner. A gentle cleanser that is safe for the skin, while at the same time effectively removing dirt, bacteria, and sebum. Does not irritate even sensitive skin. In cosmetic products, it is well absorbed and enhances the penetration into the skin of other substances contained in it, especially vitamin A and C. When used for hair care, it returns vitality and radiance to it, carefully cleansing and improving its structure.

The basis of many “soft” and natural dishwashing liquids, toothpastes, completes the list of surfactant complexes in Avalon Organics shampoos.

Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate- Anionic tensoactive ingredient derived from coconut oil. Does not contain sulfate, which is replaced by a sulfoacetate group. It has a stable pH, biodegradable, and is equally effective for any water hardness. Can be used in high concentrations without causing irritation.

Many Alba Botanica and Jason products contain this surfactant, and it comes either in 1st or 2nd place.

Sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate- often found in body, hair, wash, and children's cosmetics, but I couldn't find a description either.

Sodium isostearoyl lactylate- We have met it only in dog and horse natural shampoos, not in human ones :) DO NOT WASH WITH HORSE SHAMPOOS!

Sodium pareth sulfate- can be found in hand and body washes, but is not widely used
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate- A surfactant with a mild dermatological effect, intended for children's foaming cosmetics and detergents for daily use. A multi-faceted product for the production of cosmetic products, combining high dermatological properties with excellent foaming. Its exceptional gentleness to the skin and mucous membranes of the eyes makes this product ideal for the production of “soft” products.

Seen in liquid soaps, shower gels and some face washes. I also like this surfactant. It is in first place before SLS in the only shampoo with sulfate that does not make my hair fall out when washed - Lakme for sensitive scalp.

Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate- a soft surfactant with good thickening and foam-forming characteristics. Suitable for sensitive skin.

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate- soft surfactant. Good foaming, thickening properties. A very soft amphoteric surfactant for delicate cosmetics, which is compatible with any other types of surfactants. Liquid with pH 8.0-9.0. In cosmetics it is used in a wide range of products.

With the addition of the two above-mentioned surfactants, I came across a lot of shower gels and bath foams on Iherb, as well as shampoos and washes from a variety of companies - Nature's Gate, Jason, Giovanni, Earth Science.

Coconut Monoethanolamide- Used as a foaming agent or stabilizer in liquid and powder detergents. The product can also be used as a viscosity regulator. Coconut oil monoethanolamide is included in the following formulations: shampoos, liquid soaps, shower gels, rinse conditioners, carpet cleaning shampoos, dishwashing liquids, general household cleaners.

Alkylpolyglycosides- Alkylpolyglycosides of various fractions C8 – C10, C12 – C14, C8 – C14.

General characteristics:

nonionic surfactants that form stable, soft, fine-cell foam;
have good wetting properties;
compatible with other ingredients, and also have a synergistic effect with other surfactants, used in the formulation of mild foaming detergents with low irritating effects;
easily soluble in water:
environmentally friendly and completely biodegradable products
Uses: Shampoos, bubble baths, cleansing skin care lotions, creams (as an emulsifier), dishwashing detergents, surface cleaners, industrial detergents.

Coconut Diethanolamide (Coconut oil diethanolamine, Coconut oil acid, Cocamide DEA, Ninol, Witcamide, Calamide)- is well compatible with anionic surfactants, is a good thickener, foam stabilizer, and superfatting agent. This product is used for the production of shampoos, shower gels, bath foam, household chemicals

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate- Refatting agent, conditioning and softening component. Has solubilizing properties. Used in cleansing cosmetics: shampoo, shower gels, bath foams, liquid soap.

Laureth-2- Thickener for foaming detergents (shampoos, bath foams, shower gels, liquid soaps, intimate hygiene products). Adds shine to hair care product formulations. monoalkyl ethers of polyethylene glycol (n=2) based on alcohols of the lauric fraction. Nonionic surfactant. Has low foaming ability. Emulsifier and oil-soluble co-emulsifier, thickener for foaming compositions.

Syndet based on Na/K LS (Sodium/Potassium Lauryl Sulphates blend)- Base for solid bar cleansing soap based on a mixture of sodium and potassium lauryl sulfates.

Syndet based on Na/K LS and DSLSS (Sodium/Potassium Lauryl Sulphates blend and Disodium Lauryl Sulphosuccinate)- Base for solid bar cleansing soap based on a mixture of sodium and potassium lauryl sulfates and disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate.

Syndet based on Na/K LS and SCI (Sodium/Potassium Lauryl Sulphates blend and Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)- Base for solid bar cleansing soap based on a mixture of sodium and potassium lauryl sulfates and sodium cocoyl isothionate.

Lauramine Oxide- Non-ionic surfactant. Enhances foam formation and foam stabilization, has a thickening effect. As part of shampoos, it significantly improves conditioning properties.

It is practically not found in shampoos, but a good half of the bath and dishwashing products on Herb contain this surfactant :)

Lauramidopropylamine Oxide- soft amphoteric surfactant. Compatible with all types of surfactants. Reduces the irritating effect of other surfactants. Gives rich, creamy foam. It is not used very often in cosmetics.

Lauryl Betaine– belongs to the class of amphoteric surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants, depending on the environment, exhibit the properties of cationic (in an acidic solution) or anionic (in an alkaline solution) surfactants. Compatible with all types of surfactants, resistant to acids and alkalis. It is a soft surfactant, has excellent foaming and cleaning properties, foam stabilizer, makes the foam more “smooth”. Antistatic, has a slight conditioning effect. Suitable for children's cosmetics.

If you believe Iherb, most natural companies make liquid hand soap and shower gels, shampoos, and especially children’s cosmetics with its addition.

This is, perhaps, all that I could find on the Internet and remember from lectures at my university. I tried to add all the more or less popular foaming agents and I hope the article will be useful to you.

Today, the topic of choosing shampoo is very relevant, or more precisely, which shampoo to choose, with sulfates or without sulfates. I will say right away that sulfate-free shampoo uses softer sulfate derivatives or, as they are also called, surfactants, most often plant-based, and we will look at them today.

In the article, you can find out a lot of useful information about choosing a shampoo.

What are sulfates in shampoo for?

Before we understand the features and disadvantages of sulfate-free shampoos, let's first find out what sulfates are and why they are needed in shampoos.

Sulfates are surfactants, that is, they are special cleansing components, similar to petrochemicals, in shampoo they are needed to form foam and cleanse hair of impurities, even in cold water.

The concentration of sulfates in shampoos is in very small quantities, so the likelihood of a harmful effect on the body is too exaggerated, especially since the shampoo comes into contact with the skin and hair for no more than two to three minutes. Although many say that sulfates negatively affect the protective properties of the epidermis, destroying it, and also have a negative effect on the scalp, so it is important to thoroughly rinse the shampoo from your hair.

We have divided the most popular sulfates that are included in shampoo from the most dangerous and toxic to the least dangerous.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)- foams heavily and can cause itching and irritation of the scalp if the shampoo is not rinsed off well.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)- it forms a good foam, but if it is poorly washed off it can dry out the scalp.

Ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES)- an aggressive surfactant, but not as toxic as the previous two.

Sodium myreth sulfate SMES- also an aggressive surfactant, often included in shampoos, very rarely, but can still cause dry scalp.

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate- a soft surfactant for cleansing hair and scalp.

Sodium laurel sulfoacetate is a soft surfactant made from palm and coconut oil.

Polyglyceryl-3 palmitate- a soft surfactant, a derivative of glycerin and palm oil.

Sucrose laurate- sucrose laurate, has mild cleansing properties.

Sodium cocoyl glutamate- a mild detergent with antioxidant properties.

Decyl glucoside- a mild cleansing surfactant based on coconut fatty acids and corn starch.

Lauryl glucoside- a soft surfactant made from coconut oil sugar.

Сocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine- a soft surfactant based on coconut oil fatty acid, cleanses and moisturizes at the same time.

Сocamidopropyl betaine- has conditioning properties, prevents static on the hair.

All soft surfactants are included in the composition of sulfate-free shampoos!

If you notice that your hair is getting greasy more often than usual, or that your scalp is itchy or dandruff appears, then it’s time to change your shampoo to a less aggressive one.

If you look at the composition of shampoo, sulfates are in second place after water.

The most aggressive surfactants are found in mass-market shampoos.

Who is suitable for sulfate-free shampoos?

1. Colored hair - regular shampoos wash the dye out of the hair very quickly, while sulfate-free shampoos are softer and, accordingly, the rich hair color remains longer. Therefore, basically all shampoos (especially professional ones) for colored hair are sulfate-free.
2. After keratin hair straightening - after this procedure, you are immediately offered a special shampoo in the salon or recommended to use only a mild, sulfate-free shampoo to wash your hair, since regular shampoo will negate the keratin straightening in just a few washes.
3. Sensitive scalp - if you find it difficult to choose a shampoo because your scalp often becomes dry or irritated, you can try sulfate-free shampoos, they have worked well for caring for sensitive scalps.
4. For anyone who wants to choose more natural hair care. Sulfate-free shampoos and essential oils for hair can become an excellent and reliable arsenal in hair care.

Pros and cons of sulfate-free shampoos

The first thing that is worth clarifying is that sulfate-free shampoos are far from natural shampoos (and in general there are no natural industrial shampoos), they simply replace aggressive components with softer ones. Because some write that such shampoos do not contain preservatives, they are completely natural emulsifiers, do not believe this, if they did not contain preservatives, their shelf life would be no more than a week, and not three years.

Pros of sulfate-free shampoos:

• The shampoo contains gentle, mild surfactants that do not dry out or irritate the scalp.
• Sulfate-free shampoos do not destroy the natural protective barrier of the skin and hair structure.
• The dye does not wash out from the hair, the hair retains the color pigment longer, thanks to the soft structure of the shampoo components.
• These shampoos are ideal after a keratin hair straightening procedure. Because sulfates from shampoos corrode keratin and contribute to the rapid leaching of particles from the hair.
• Sulfate-free shampoos do not dry out the scalp, as a result of which the lipid-fat balance does not change and the feeling of cleanliness lasts longer.
• With regular use, sulfate-free shampoos can improve overall hair health.

Sulfate-free shampoos contain more natural ingredients that no less effectively cleanse and fill the hair and scalp with all the necessary components.

Cons of sulfate-free shampoos:

• There is a lot of consumption of shampoo, due to the fact that it does not foam well and you need to wash it with shampoo two and sometimes three times.
• Quite a high price; sulfate-free shampoo will cost more than regular shampoo from the mass market.
• Sulfate-free shampoos do not wash away styling products from the hair (foam, hairspray, gel...), as well as silicones, so you must use them.
• After such a shampoo, you must definitely apply a mask or conditioner, otherwise your hair will not be combable.

You need to get used to such a shampoo, because it may immediately seem that it does not cleanse and rinse your hair well; it may lack volume and smoothness, as after regular shampoos.

How to use?

If you follow a few recommendations, then using sulfate-free shampoo will only bring benefits:

When choosing a shampoo, be sure to take into account the condition of your scalp: is it prone to oiliness or, conversely, to dryness or maybe sensitive. And based on this, buy the appropriate shampoo (moisturizing, for frequent (gentle) washing, for sensitive scalp, for volume).

Before applying shampoo, the hair and scalp should be well wetted and the water should be warmer, otherwise the shampoo will not lather and rinse well.

Apply the shampoo twice, the second time it will foam better, do a light massage and you can leave the shampoo on your hair for 2-3 minutes. If your hair is thick, long and heavy, you can apply shampoo a third time.

List of sulfate-free shampoos

The choice of sulfate-free shampoos is as great as sulfate ones; price and quality also have a wide range. So you can easily find the right product for your hair.

Kerastase Discipline contains a morpho-keratin complex, which includes serine, glutamic acid, arginium and wheat protein - components responsible for consolidating the hair fiber and making it smooth and soft. The line includes a three-step system that does not involve any chemical changes to the hair.

Compound: Aqua/Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Glycol Distearate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycereth-26, Decyl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Coconut Acid, Coco-Betaine, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Sodium Benzoate, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Sodium Chloride, Polyquaternium-7, Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-10, Sodium Isethionate, Salicylic Acid, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, C11-15 Pareth-7, Benzoic Acid, Arginine, Glutamic Acid, Benzyl Salicylate, Laureth-9, Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Serine, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Trideceth-12, C12-13 Pareth-23, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, C12-13 Pareth-3, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Parfum/Fragrance.

Thanks to the formula that does not contain dangerous parabens and sulfates, the described shampoo is completely safe for both colored and severely damaged strands. Thanks to the dense foam created by unique plant substances, the shampoo delicately cleanses strands of all types of impurities, giving them incredible lightness, freshness and softness. The composition of the product is also enriched with the revolutionary KeraTriplex® keratin complex, enhanced with awapui extract. Thanks to its effect, dry, brittle and vulnerable curls are thoroughly restored, they are saturated with moisture necessary for the elasticity and silkiness of the strands, as well as giving them increased attractive shine and manageability.

Compound: Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cococamphodiacetate, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, Laureth-4, Laureth-23, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Polyquaternium-5, Keratin, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Oxidized Keratin, Hedychium Coronarium (white Ginger) Root Extract, Polyquaternium-10 , Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Biovlavonoids, Citrus Aurantium Amara (bitter Orange) Peel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Guar Hydroypropyltrimonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Magnesium Chloride, Magnesium Nitrate, Fragrance/Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnam al, Limonene , Linalaol.

With this shampoo you will forget about brittleness and excessive fluffiness of your hair. You will get strong and strong, obedient and silky curls. An excellent result will be obtained due to rosemary and horsetail extracts in the shampoo. The active components will heal damage, restore and strengthen each hair. The shampoo will moisturize, soften and soothe the scalp, preventing dryness and irritation.

Compound: Aqua (Water/Eau), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MEA, PEG-150 Distearate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Glycol Distearate, Limonene, Linalool, Parfum (Fragrance), Polyquaternium-10, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, Lauramine Oxide, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Equisetum Arvense Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Yucca Schidigera Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Sodium PCA, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Chloride.

The shampoo delicately cares for curls, providing a comprehensive effect on unruly, coarse, brittle and dry hair.

Active moisturizing components in the composition saturate the strands with moisture and nutrition, enrich them with organic extracts and vitamins that prevent dryness and brittle hair. After the first use, you will notice a visible effect, natural shine of curls, smoothness and silkiness.

The complex with keratin and argan oil has a hair straightening effect. The composition of the product is saturated with components that dry and damaged hair especially need: hydrolytic keratin, argan oil, cationic polymers, provitamin B5, D-Panthenol. After the first use, the presented shampoo provides protection, natural shine, smoothness and silkiness. It evens out hair of all types, intensely moisturizes and gives an amazingly well-groomed look.

Compound: hydrolytic keratin, argan oil, cationic polymers, provitamin B5 D-Panthenol.

Suitable for hypersensitive scalp and dry, damaged strands. Soy protein hydrolyzate in the product instantly moisturizes and stimulates the activity of skin cells. Strengthens hair, deeply moisturizing it from the inside, helps recovery. Does not weigh down hair, retains moisture, tones the scalp and nourishes it with essential microelements. Gives elasticity and prevents hair loss. The shampoo has an antistatic effect and does not contain sodium laureth sulfate.

Compound: Aqua, Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Betaine, PEG-4 Rapeseedamine, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Panthenol, Glycine, Glycerin, PEG-400, Mannitol, Tromethamine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine HCI, Alanine, Aspartic Acid, Lysine Hydrochloride, Leucine, Valine, Citric Acid, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Sorbitol, Glucose, Phenylalanine, Isoleucine, Lyrosine, Histidine Hydrochloride, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Copper Tripeptide -1, Polyquaternium-10, Parfum, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.

Sulfate-free detergent components and natural-based additives are suitable for hair of any degree of oiliness, restore its damaged structure, and remove dust and unpleasant odors. Phytokeratin is an enriched complex that contains plant extracts such as proteins and amino acids from wheat, corn and soy. Thanks to this natural extract, the shampoo penetrates deeper, normalizing the internal keratin layer and moisturizing the skin. The gentle formula is also suitable for particularly sensitive skin.

Compound: Aqua, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Dihydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Sorbate potassium, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, perfume composition, polyquaternium-10, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, limonene.

The shampoo formula is enriched with bamboo extract and argan oil, thanks to which it restores and strengthens the hair structure, prolongs the durability and brightness of color. A special sulfate-free formula with a vitamin balance also carefully cares for the scalp, deeply nourishes and gently cleanses. After using the shampoo, the hair becomes silky and shiny and acquires a beautiful natural volume.

Compound: Aqua, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco Glucoside, Glycerin, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Cocamide DEA, Parfum, Polyquatemium-7, Glycol Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Silicone Quaternium-16, Bambusa Vulgaris, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Benzophenone-4, Citric Acid, Undeceth-11, Butyloctanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Propylene Glycol, Undeceth-5, Niacinamide, Calcium Pantothenate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine HCL, Maltodextrin Sodium Starch, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylis othiazolinone.