• How to sew a skirt styles and patterns. I sew myself: skirts and tops without patterns. Determination of elasticity of knitwear

    16.12.2023

    The proposed method for constructing a skirt pattern is more suitable for proportionally folded, so-called standard figures. This technique is also good to use for mass sewing of skirts.

    And, of course, with its help you can create a pattern for any figure and adjust it during the first fitting, taking into account all the individual characteristics of a particular person.

    This technique is as old as the world. And since she is so tenacious, let's get to know her.

    For figures whose parameters do not fit into generally accepted standards, I would recommend using other methods that take into account all the nuances of a particular figure at the stage of making calculations and creating a pattern.

    We bring to your attention another method for constructing a straight skirt pattern. If the previous method is designed for so-called standard figures and is more suitable for mass tailoring, then this method is good because it can be used to create a pattern for any figure, including a figure that deviates from generally accepted standards. This technique, compared to the previous one, takes into account some individual characteristics of a particular person.

    There are even more precise methods, methods and techniques used to construct patterns for individual tailoring of skirts. We'll get to know them later.

    We start by taking measurements.

    Ready-made life-size pattern for this season's fashionable skirt. The front is a godet skirt, and the back is a flounced skirt. There are high pleats on the sides of the middle wedge of the skirt. The skirt has pockets in cut-off barrels.

    A skirt with a flounce, just like a year skirt, always looks impressive and stylish.

    This style suits almost any woman.

    Be responsible when choosing fabric for your skirt. Fashionable, high-quality material is half the success. And when the skirt is ready, choose a blouse, fashionable shoes, “complete” the image with a stylish hairstyle, add accessories and go... to work, for a walk or to the theater.

    A flounced skirt goes well with a short jacket or jacket, as well as with a loose silk blouse tucked into the skirt. You can wear such a skirt with a turtleneck or sweater, but here it is important to choose the correct length of the above items - it (the length) should be no more than 10-15 cm below the waistline.

    The life-size floor-length skirt pattern is suitable for girls with a waist circumference of 100-104-108-112 cm.

    The pattern is sent instantly by email (to your e-mail address). There is no need to download anything. The file with the pattern is located in the attachment letters. Open, print, glue the sheets, cut out the size you need and you can start cutting.

    Maxi skirt for plus size people, slightly widened at the bottom, made of soft, comfortable fabric. In the left side seam there is a slit of moderate height.

    Using the proposed pattern, choosing the appropriate fabric, you can sew a skirt for the off-season, and for winter, and for summer. Fabric consumption is approximately 2.2-2.3 m with a width of 1.5 m.

    To sew a skirt, choose soft dress fabrics. Pay attention to fabrics in blue shades, they perfectly hide the volume. You can also recommend checkered fabrics; when cut on the bias, they visually elongate the figure.

    Actually, the color of the fabric is a matter of taste. Experiment to your heart's content.

    Another skirt for the wardrobe of a modern business woman.

    The classic pencil skirt has a lot of options. These are various undercuts, yokes, folds, etc.

    The proposed model of a skirt for plus size people has a classic look at the front, and the back panel of the skirt is decorated with a wide flounce.

    The finished pencil skirt pattern is designed for girls and women of curvy shapes with a hip circumference from 116 to 128 cm.

    Sewing this skirt model will not seem difficult even for novice seamstresses.

    A variety of fabrics are suitable for sewing and the final result will depend on this choice. Ideal for gabardine, loose suiting and dress fabrics, taffeta, thick silk, etc.

    The ability to model allows you to sew several completely different skirts using one pattern option. If you love to dance, then the patterns of gypsy and Spanish skirts will allow you to sew your own outfit for performances. And if you just follow fashion, or prefer your own, purely individual style, then this section will help you always look fashionable and stylish. Moreover, using this skill, you can sew an exclusive dress. There are many styles of skirts: godet, flared, sun, pleated, pleated, Scottish, spiral, mini, midi, maxi, and skirt patterns will allow you to realize any designer's fantasies. Below are very interesting and practical options for skirt patterns: straight skirt patterns, “Godet” skirt patterns, “Sun” skirt patterns, straight skirt patterns with a flyaway cape, wrap skirt patterns, skirt patterns with a frilled mould, skirt patterns with an undercut and drapery etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.

    Taking measurements

    In mass sewing production, ready-made tables are used to create pattern drawings, which contain measurements of the necessary parameters of typical figures. For individual tailoring, the use of such tables is inappropriate, since more accurate and detailed data is required: Another system is used here - calculation and measurement, which is based on measuring distances between certain points of the human body. These distances are called measures.

    To take measurements, you must have a measuring tape, a pencil and a notebook. In this case, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements: the person from whom measurements are taken must stand relaxed, with a straight posture and arms down along the body; the legs should be brought together at the heels, and the toes should be slightly turned outward (with the slightest deviation to the sides, the measurements may turn out to be inaccurate); When measuring measurements, the centimeter tape should not be tightened or, conversely, loosened; In order to eliminate distortion of readings, it is advisable to take measurements using underwear.

    Remember! The accuracy of the pattern drawing and, consequently, the appearance of the product you sew depends on the correctness and accuracy of the measurements you take.

    However, that's not all.

    To draw a skirt drawing, you need to take into account what type of physique your figure belongs to. If you have a standardly built figure (smoothly wavy back, position of the protruding points of the shoulder blades and buttocks at the same level relative to the vertical, moderate notch of the waist and protrusion of the buttocks, normal hip width), then to draw a drawing of the skirt you need the following measurements

    Straight two-seam skirt

    Despite the variety of this or that skirt, the straight two-seam one is the basis for constructing many models. This skirt exists perfectly as an independent product and as an integral part of many costumes. It is not without reason that it is one of the classic models and therefore has rightfully been at the peak of fashion for several decades. It is suitable for women of any age category, and will also be appropriate for both special occasions and everyday wear. This skirt can be sewn from almost any type of fabric. However, it is not recommended to sew it from checkered fabrics, since adjusting such a pattern is quite difficult. If you decide to sew a skirt made of striped fabric, then when cutting it is necessary to maintain the symmetry of the pattern on the front and back panels. A straight two-seam skirt without widening at the bottom will look a little narrowed. Therefore, it is not recommended for women with low hips.

    BUILDING A DRAWING OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF A STRAIGHT DOUBLE-SEAM SKIRT

    To construct a drawing (Fig. 14), the following measurements of the figure are required: waist circumference (Wt), hip circumference (C6) and product length (L) - And you also need to know the amount of increase for a loose fit along the waist line (Pt) and line hips (P6). For all sizes they are equal:

    Fri = 0.7-1.0 cm, Pb = 1.5-2.0 cm.

    In what follows, we will call the necessary measurements and additions “initial data.”

    For convenience of construction and calculations, we will take the measurements of a typical figure; St = 38 cm, Se = 52 cm, Dt = 75 cm.

    We construct a right angle with the vertex at point T. The segment TN corresponds to the length of the skirt and is the middle of the front panel. The segment TB determines the position of the hip line and is equal to 13.5-19.5 cm. We draw lines through the obtained points B and H perpendicular to the straight line TN. From point B along the hip line we lay off a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips (C6) plus an increase for a loose fit along the hips (Pb), and place point B1

    BB 1 = C6 + Pb = 52 + 2 = 54 cm.

    Through point B 1, draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T1 and the bottom line at point H1. This straight line is the middle of the rear panel. From point B to the right along the hip line we put BB2

    BB 2 = BB1/2 - 1 = TT2 = NN2

    Through point B 2 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T2 and the bottom line at point H2.

    I think you will be interested:

    > by Notes of the Wild Mistress

    Walking through the park in a T-shirt and shorts, sometimes you still want to wear a skirt - long, light, airy. And complement it with a short open top. With this thought in mind, you wander around the shops, but either the size is not quite right, or the quality of the fabric, or the design... I wish I could sew it myself! But I really don’t want to understand these complex patterns. Sound familiar?

    Today we will look at modeling summer suits that do not require any patterns: simple models of skirts that can be designed directly on the fabric, and models of summer tops of the “bustier” type, which are made using the “tattoo” method, that is, directly on a mannequin or on your figure.

    Description of models (Fig. 1)

    Model 1. Suit made of cotton fabric, combined. The skirt is multi-tiered with a yoke up to the hip line, with a “mesh” insert, with a zipper, and decorative trim along the bottom of the product. Bustier-type top with a yoke and loops for a lacing belt sewn into the waistband.

    Model 2. Suit made of lightweight knitted fabric with a printed pattern. Bell skirt with elastic waistband. Top with a wide sash. The bodice of the top has both shoulder and waist pleats. The waist of the top is high. There are also waist folds on the back (instead of darts).

    How to sew all this, and even without patterns?

    The simplest skirt in design is conical. “Bell” is a variation of it. There are both “flares” and “sun”. This skirt is built based on a segment of a circle (Fig. 2 on the left).

    Bell skirt

    Line OH - lobar tissue. TT1 - waist line, BB1 - hip line, HH1 - bottom line of the product, TN - skirt length (don’t forget seam allowances and loose fit). Single-suture, seam along line T1H1. Along the TN line is the fold of the fabric. Depending on the direction of the pattern, the panels of the skirt are arranged along the length (as in photo 2), then it will be two-seam.

    Tiered skirt

    Also easy to build (Fig. 2 on the right). Classic tiers - each subsequent one is 1/3 larger than the previous one. In our version, in order to highlight the “mesh” tier, all the tiers above the mesh are only slightly larger than the previous ones, and below the mesh they are strongly flared so that the skirt is folded (photo 1). The proposed option is a skirt with a yoke. The yoke is part of the bell skirt (figure TT1B1B). For a more fitted option, darts and a zipper are used in the side seam.

    What are the similarities and differences between these skirts?

    The similarity is the upper part of the skirt. Only in knitted model 2 it is looser, with an elasticated belt (it will then be covered with a wide sash from the top), and in cotton model 1 the upper part is in the form of a yoke.

    Differences. The bell is cut from a whole piece of fabric, it has only one side seam (or two, if the fabric pattern has a direction). And multi-tiered - from several strips of fabric, you can combine multi-colored ones or use a contrasting finish for a single-color fabric.

    Knitted top (for model 2)

    The property of the fabric allows the use of large folds; in combination with a wide belt, the model will emphasize the waist and enlarge the bust. See fig. 3.

    The picture does not show a belt; it is cut from a strip of the desired width. The waist line is in the middle of the belt (therefore, it turns out that the visible waist line is high), and its lower part covers the belt of the bell skirt (photo 5, 6). The neckline is to the waist. Skinny girls can afford this neckline (photo 5); for larger sizes it is better to extend the fasteners to the desired height. (Photo 4)

    Bustier top (for model 1)

    Bustier with yoke (Fig. 4, photo 8). A “false belt” in the main color of the suit is sewn into the front to emphasize the waistline (photo 14). The bustier is also cut with an allowance under the bust, but instead of folds, the fabric is gathered (the whole suit is more fitted). (Photo 3)

    Fitting, costume decor

    On knitwear with a pattern it is possible without decoration; there is already an accent - a neckline in combination with a belt (photo 5). Matching matte mother-of-pearl buttons (photo 7). Careful processing of seams.

    For model 1 - a lacing belt (photo 9, 10), matching mini buttons (photo 11), trim as a continuation of the straps (photo 8, 9).

    Decor - belt loops (photo 10), mesh tier on the skirt (photo 12), decorative trim along the bottom of the product (photo 13).

    Well, the costumes are ready (photo 14,15). Now you can go to the city park and to the beach. On hot days, you so want to enjoy the last rays of the sun, so that in the frosty winter, while going through things in the closet in search of woolen socks, you suddenly stumble upon these summer suits and “hang” for half an hour. Remember the hot summer and how she puffed over “this bell”, how she injected herself more than once because of the “tattooing method”, how proudly she then wandered along the beach in a new suit, burning her heels with hot sand... Waking up from her husband’s tenth question: “What are you doing?” ?”, tear off the crumpled things from your cheek, answer in fascination: “I sewed this myself”...

    Polina Vertinskaya

    Sewing from knitwear can be a lot of fun if you know some rules for working with it. Its main feature and difference from other materials is its elasticity. Thanks to her, knitted items are comfortable, convenient, and beautifully emphasize the curves of the figure.

    Determination of elasticity of knitwear

    The elasticity of knitwear makes it possible to somewhat simplify patterns - due to the stretchability, the item fits well on the figure without additional seams or darts. When sewing from knitwear, you can do without zippers - elastic knitwear stretches easily and then returns to its original size.

    Changing the pattern when sewing from knitwear

    Changing the pattern directly depends on the chosen model. If we sew a loose item - a wide blouse in the form of a "hoodie", a skirt or dress with folds or gathers - then the elasticity of the material does not matter, and there is no need to change the pattern.

    If you use ready-made patterns from a magazine, then all increases and decreases are already taken into account in them in accordance with the recommended material. Therefore, be sure to pay attention to what fabric is recommended for the chosen model.

    For those who make patterns with their own hands, you need to learn to understand this issue, because the result is worth it!

    If we are going to sew a tight-fitting model from elastic knitwear that follows the contours of the body, the pattern needs to be reduced. This means a base pattern without allowances for a loose fit, that is, exactly repeating the dimensions of the body.

    When working with fabrics, an increase is usually made for the looseness of the fit, and when sewing from elastic knitwear (tight-fitting models), a decrease is made.

    The knitwear from which we are going to sew will help us determine the amount of reduction in the pattern. The steps are the same as when determining the elasticity of knitwear, only we stretch it not as far as possible, but as much as our finished model is expected to stretch on the figure. That is, lightly, so as not to dangle, or a little stronger, so that it can be felt on the body - it depends on the desired result.

    Let's see how our 10 cm have increased - let's say, up to 12 cm.
    10 cm from 12 is 83%.
    Calculation: 10/12*100=83
    This means that the pattern needs to be reduced in width to 83% of the original. For example, with a hip circumference of 104 cm, we create a skirt pattern with a volume of 86.32 cm.
    Calculation: 104*83%=86.32

    Another important point when sewing from knitwear. When stretched in width, the knitwear is shortened in length. The stronger the tension is planned, the more you add to the length of the pattern. This can also be clarified experimentally: stretch the canvas widthwise (in a hanging position), measure the length before and after stretching.

    If we are sewing a top, dress, etc., please note that in tight-fitting models, the neckline and armholes can greatly increase in size when put on the figure. Therefore, you need to cut them out minimally, just to fit, and then check the dimensions on the figure.

    Sewing from knitwear often causes difficulties - the sewing machine skips stitches. This happens when working with dense materials - the needle in such knitwear does not move freely, “sticks” to the material, “pulls” it along with it, and does not slide.

    As a result, the stitch formation mechanism does not work.
    Therefore, for sewing you need to use special needles for knitwear. These needles have a rounded point that does not pierce the threads of the material, but pushes them apart.

    This makes sewing easier, helps to avoid thread breaks at puncture sites and the formation of “arrows”. Such an error can hopelessly ruin the item, and it will not be noticeable immediately, but during wear.

    If the machine skips stitches even with a knitting needle, you will have to get creative. Try changing the needle (needles of different thicknesses behave differently), change the threads - they can also affect the quality of the seam. Another option is to place strips of paper under the foot along the seam and stitch along it. It's labor-intensive, but the seam turns out well. The paper is easily removed.

    Knitted seams

    Naturally, when sewing knitwear, elastic seams must be used. Otherwise, the product will be pulled at the seams and in the future the threads in the seams will break.

    Our main goal is to achieve elasticity of the seams. Every modern machine has elastic stitching. The simplest type is zigzag. Choose a small zigzag width - 1-2 mm, medium step - 2-3 mm.

    You can sew knitwear with a regular straight stitch. In this case, during sewing, the material should be fed under the foot in a slightly stretched state. One hand holds the knitwear in front of the foot, the other - behind the foot, while the knitwear is stretched. This can also be done with the fingers of your left hand.

    The final stitch should be soft and not tight. The thread tension needs to be adjusted so that the stitch does not pull, but does not loop. In any case, you need to fine-tune the machine by testing different stitches on scraps of knitwear.

    To hem the bottom of the product, use a double needle. It gives a double stitch on the front side, and a zigzag on the back side. The seam turns out to be elastic, similar to a stitching stitch.

    In general, the edges of the product can be processed in different ways. For example, finish the bottom of the skirt with a tight zigzag, or sew the hem with some decorative stitch available on your machine. The bottom of the sleeves can be finished with narrow cuffs, saving you from processing the hem.

    You can also use the property of knitwear to curl along the cuts. We cut out the strips of knitwear so that their longitudinal edges curl towards each other. We adjust these stripes from the front side along the edges of the product (neck, bottom of sleeves, etc.) so that the processed cut is ultimately not visible. We lay a line in the center of the strip, straightening the curled edges.

    When sewing warm, voluminous or thick fabric-like knitwear, the hem of the bottom can be done with a blind seam by hand.

    Consider ready-made things - you may see an unexpected solution.

    You can never have too many skirts! And not a single woman will deny herself the pleasure of sewing another magnificent skirt using the patterns proposed in this section. And there are several reasons for this. Firstly, even to sew the most complex skirt, just a couple of days are enough, and simple skirt models, for example, a circle skirt or a “Tatyanka” type skirt, can be sewn in a couple of hours.

    Secondly, in order to sew a skirt, a small amount of fabric is enough. And sometimes craftswomen can create real masterpieces even from pieces of fabric lying around in their chests.

    And the third reason why most craftswomen love to sew skirts is the incredible number of creative ideas and ready-made skirt patterns on our website. You can use the developed patterns unchanged or supplement the product with your own ideas, add details that you wish. Creativity is in your hands!

    If you are new to sewing and don't know where to start, we recommend that you first create a basic skirt pattern according to your own measurements. You will be surprised how easy this can be done by following our instructions. Each finished skirt pattern contains a link to the base pattern, and you can use it.

    If you are limited in time and for some reason cannot create a basic skirt pattern yourself, we have made sure that you can download it for free. The pattern is available for download on the website in 5 standard sizes.

    It is important to note that for sewing some types of skirts a basic pattern is not required: for example, for a bell skirt, circle skirt, half-sun, tatyanka, for a skirt with frills and many other styles of fluffy skirts, it is enough to take only 2-3 measurements .

    Each model contains not only information on modeling and cutting, but also detailed instructions for sewing each model. In addition, we have prepared for you master classes on those sewing operations that are often performed when sewing skirts - on processing darts, belts, belt loops, pockets, fasteners, folds, gathers and much more.

    Choose your favorite skirt models, cut and sew together with the Sewing School website!

    Few will remain indifferent to an A-line skirt, because this model captivates at first sight, first of all, with its elegance. A slight flaring of the hem allows you to create a very feminine and sophisticated silhouette, and the rich blue color of the model is a win-win option for creating unique looks in different styles. An A-line skirt is very combinatory and can be successfully combined with jackets, knitted jumpers or blouses - in any case, an elegant look and a great mood are guaranteed. Pattern for an A-line skirt in this tutorial.

    This knitted suit can not only be sewn from ready-made material, but also knitted. It consists of a jumper and a skirt - a voluminous top and a tight-fitting bottom - a wonderful collaboration of two completely independent things. Together they create a complete ensemble, however, each of them can act separately, as a combi-partner with other items in your wardrobe. For example, such a knitted skirt can be perfectly combined with a loose blouse, and a jumper with denim trousers.

    Let's look at a variation on the flounce theme and model a skirt with a one-piece flounce that turns into a bow. Perhaps such a model may seem too voluminous to some; in this case, you can always reduce both the length of the flounce and the size of the bow itself. The skirt presented in the article is made by us from gabardine, a sand shade that is popular this season, and it looks great! It is better to combine such a product with a tight-fitting top - a top, a short pullover, a blouse, etc.

    If you want to give your favorite skirts a new interpretation, then there is no easier way than adding straps to them! Just look at these charming models! A classic pencil skirt, a circle skirt and a denim A-line skirt - three completely different models with long straps look equally impressive. We offer you ready-made patterns for these charming skirts that you can sew yourself.

    The aesthetics of modern society in terms of wardrobe and appearance follows the path of minimalism - today naturalness, high-quality materials, and precise cut are more valued in clothing. Fashion is cyclical, and the trends that we see today are just another round of history. So let's fully enjoy this period of time and sew one of the most classic skirt models - the four-piece skirt. The modern model is made of denim and in a new interpretation looks incredibly feminine and luxurious.

    Why do we love clothes made from denim? Because it is very comfortable, practically does not wrinkle, does not require any additional care and, moreover, never goes out of style! And how many different products can be sewn from such fabrics! Today we decided to invite you to model a denim skirt pattern that will fit perfectly into any wardrobe and can even be an excellent alternative to jeans that are so firmly rooted in it.

    When warm days begin and we spend most of our free time outdoors, it can be difficult to find an extra minute to sew. Despite the fact that during such periods there is less time for creativity, craftswomen are ready to sit at the sewing machine at night in order to show off their new clothes in the morning. In such cases, ready-made patterns come to the rescue, as they significantly save time and effort and help you create exactly when it is needed. An asymmetrical wrap skirt is one of the popular skirt models that almost never goes out of fashion and is quite simple to sew. In this tutorial we have prepared for you a ready-made pattern for an asymmetrical wrap skirt in 5 sizes, which you can download absolutely free.

    Simple does not mean boring at all, because the basis for creating bright things is not complexity, but the originality of the idea! The Tatyanka skirt, which we invite you to sew in our next lesson, brilliantly confirms this well-known rule. It is so easy to sew that even beginners can sew such a model in just an hour. The result will be amazing! What is a Tatyanka skirt and why is it so easy to sew? The whole secret is that you don’t need to create a pattern for such a skirt. The product is sewn without a pattern from a rectangular piece of fabric; the waist is gathered or folded. From our next lesson you will learn how to calculate the required amount of fabric for a skirt, as well as cut out and sew this sunny Tatyanka skirt with a belt.

    The wrap skirt with an asymmetrical hem line, the pattern of which we offer you in this tutorial, is not only a real hit of the season - it may well become a hit in your wardrobe! Made from thin foam-pink cotton with a one-piece belt, this skirt will ideally highlight your waistline and correct curvy hips. A slight side flare and deep pleats visually change the proportions, elongating the lower part of the figure, and the open wrap line allows you to demonstrate beautiful legs. If you decide to sew such a model for yourself, you will not have to waste time on creating and modeling a pattern, since you can download a ready-made skirt pattern in 5 life-size sizes completely free of charge!

    Using simple geometric shapes in modeling can give amazingly interesting results, and the skirt that we invite you to model is a clear example of how using a simple technique you can create a real masterpiece. To do this, you don’t need to resort to any intricate folds, draperies, complex cuts, etc., etc., etc. Rectangle-circle-rectangle - this is an axiom that must be remembered and used as often as possible! Modeling a straight skirt with a flounce is in this lesson.

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